AC Compressor Clutch Kit
RY compressors makes a new and also a refurbished clutch kit. The part is also on Amazon as well. Anyone ever replace their compressor clutch kit before? My car is already torn apart for a cam install so the front of the clutch kit is right in front. No need to pull the compressor in my situation.
https://www.rycompressors.com/shop/2...cl-943376.html
https://a.co/d/16rCvHy
Let me know all of your thoughts. I have never used this brand before but I am curious to what everyone’s thoughts are. I tried removing the bolt on my existing compressor and the Torx head bolt could strip out if I hit it too many more times with the Milwaukee m18 impact. I’m thinking I need to heat up the bolt first.
I replaced the compressor on my car about 3 years ago so I don't think it should be going bad so soon.
I'd be willing to give this a try. Just need to know how to change out the clutch. Even better if I can do it with the compressor still installed on the car.
Hence you can pop off the back side seal to clean and re-grease the bearing, without having to remove the bearing from the pulley.
The other 5% of the time, did not catch the problem fast enough, and just need to press out the old pulley bearing, and pres in a new $15 bearing instead.
Hence the only time you should be thinking entire clutch kit, is if the electromagnetic coils burnt up or you broke its connector, since that is a hard part to find on its own, and then need to pick up a complete clutch kit to get that part as well.
My car threw its AC belt about a week ago which I thought was weird. Compressor may be going bad and has some resistance inside. I replaced the belt and tensioner but the AC system still doesn't seem to be working properly.
I will likely wait until the spring to mess with it. It is starting to get a bit cold and I don't have access to a garage.
My car threw its AC belt about a week ago which I thought was weird. Compressor may be going bad and has some resistance inside. I replaced the belt and tensioner but the AC system still doesn't seem to be working properly.
I will likely wait until the spring to mess with it. It is starting to get a bit cold and I don't have access to a garage.
If you cannot, is there any gap even a hair gap between the clutch plate and the pulley?
If it were me, I would remove the entire clutch kit then slide just the clutch plate back on, see if the compressor moves freely. If not, the compressor would need replaced.
Last edited by NELH; Nov 18, 2024 at 12:07 AM.
So I decided to get the bolt out and removed the snap rings. The pulley bearing is perfectly fine, smooth on the inside and has no issues. I have an extra compressor that is bolted up to a spare LS2 and so I measured that compressor.
Compressor on spare engine 1.377 inch
Compressor in the car 1.361
Inside of both bearing for both clutch kits is 1.377
The compressor on the spare engine still has the hose’s attached to it, it’s clean and the hose’s were properly unbolted when it was pulled from the car it was in. The hose’s are properly capped off. I’m just debating on swapping in this used compressor that has 58,000 miles on it or seeing if I can get another bearing that has a smaller inner diameter to get it to fit.
I really just do not want to swap a compressor as I would have to vacuum out the Freon and recharge it afterwards.
FYI, for anyone who wants to know. The factory bearing part number is NSK 6561715
Last edited by NELH; Nov 17, 2024 at 10:37 PM.
Based upon this picture from a couple weeks ago, I have too much gap which more than likely caused the .010 difference on the AC compressor base to get shaved off where the pulley bearing sits. I know it’s backyard mechanics but since the inside of the bearing does not move, I think I’m going to take a soda can, cut a thin metal bearing shim to go between the bearing and the ac compressor because a soda can is .010 thick. Then reshim the clutch plate to no more than .020 and .030 thick.
I bet it will work. If it fails, I’ll think about a different compressor. Just not sure if I should go new or just send it with my good used one.
Last edited by NELH; Nov 18, 2024 at 12:00 AM.
Based upon this picture from a couple weeks ago, I have too much gap which more than likely caused the .010 difference on the AC compressor base to get shaved off where the pulley bearing sits. I know it’s backyard mechanics but since the inside of the bearing does not move, I think I’m going to take a soda can, cut a thin metal bearing shim to go between the bearing and the ac compressor because a soda can is .010 thick. Then reshim the clutch plate to no more than .020 and .030 thick.
I bet it will work. If it fails, I’ll think about a different compressor. Just not sure if I should go new or just send it with my good used one.
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If you cannot, is there any gap even a hair gap between the clutch plate and the pulley?
If it were me, I would remove the entire clutch kit then slide just the clutch plate back on, see if the compressor moves freely. If not, the compressor would need replaced.
I think what I will do first before anything is to check what my pressures are in the lines.
When my AC stopped blowing cold recently, I just tossed in a can of coolant thinking that maybe I had a slow leak and it needed to be topped up.
It was right after I did that, that I noticed the AC belt was loose and off of the tensioner. Changed the belt and tensioner. I can hear the clutch engage and disengage so that is working.
So my system may be overcharged currently.
I will borrow a set of hoses and a vacuum pump from my local auto parts store. I will check the pressures and see where I am at. If they are too high, I will then re-evacuate the system and re-charge.





thanks
robert
However a fellow local corvette guy and I replaced his bad AC clutch with one from RY Compressors and it works great! This was last summer and it’s been fine. I trust RY over some of the Amazon vendors.
https://www.rycompressors.com/shop/2...63-760728.html
















