What is up with the rear wheel hop on my 2013 Z06? Is it the junk Goodyear eagle f1 run flats? (Sure hope so cause this sucks)

 

If spinning the tires with TC still on, you have bigger problems.

But yes, better summer grip Cdot tires once the become warm, will allow you to get deeper in to the throttle during rolling into the pedal, before the tires break free.
So on that note, may want to look into something like the Toyo R888T tires if using the car for street use, and still want handling as well.

As for the love of Christ, you get into wheel hop with that much wheel spin, get the hell out of the throttle,
since its the fastest way to end up blowing the diff apart, or worse when moving to end up with rear snap hooking to one side, to send you into either the barrier, or into other traffic

The output shaft on the trans is very long for the pinnion gear,


During wheel hop, one of the tires will get a good bite at is slams hard down from the hop, and this will cause the output shaft to flex, the pinnon gear to try to climb up and over the ring gear, and what shatters not only the case, but in some events, shape the output shaft as well.



Simply, with the amount of torque that the LS7 makes, and with TC and TM shut off, its going to break the tires free in at least a few gears, so stop using the gas pedal like an on/off switch, and learn to roll into the gas pedal, at rate less than what the tire will hold. More gripper tires will allow you to roll into the throttle with more power, but Cdot tires on un-prep'd tarmac, the car is always going to break the tires free for at least the first couple of gears if you mash the gas pedal to the floor.

Its a HP sports car, and part of learning on how drive such, is the proper application of the gas pedal, for the road and tire conditions to keep the tires hooked up.

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Its trying to spin the tires and getting to much traction! You can decease the air pressure about 4 PSI till it dead hooks or increase the air pressure and spin the tires. I recommend increasing the air pressure about 4 PSI to start and add or decrease air pressure to control tire spin. If it dead hooks or spins the tires either way you won't have tire spin. I run Hoosier Drag Radial slicks 28"- 10.5 in (11" wide on 10.5 18' C5 wheels) 18" on rear of mine.

 

I'm surprised you get enough traction to wheel hop with old and worn out run flats. Attababy!

 

Rear shocks gone soft?

 

I here that a urethane or Delrin bushings help with wheel hop. Especially when rubber like on these cars starts to get old.

 

Here is the funny part, and its a road course car, not a drag car, and with the Throttle mapping and TM set correctly even on a base car in comp mode, you should be able to break the tires loose in at least the first 4 gears at will, since is sometimes needed to change your line on the track.

So if one wants a drag car, then go buy a drag car with solid rear axle that can take the abuse if you get into wheel hop.
If not, then learn to control the engine power by rolling into the gas pedal to maintain rear end grip if you don't want the rear end to break loose, instead of using the gas pedal like an on/off switch.

Or as stated, just dial in TM to keep the back end from breaking loose in comp mode (when TC is shut off) if your using the throttle like a light switch, if you don't want to take the time to learn how to control the HP sports car.

 

Well, thought I would reply to my own post.
The wheel hop was 100% the Goodyear eagle F1 runflats. I went for the Michelin PS 4 run flats and man, what a difference. 0 wheel hop and sooo much quieter and way more bite.
Truly hard to believe 2 tires for the same application can be such a different.