Thinking about supercharging my 09 auto trans..... looking at 600 hp street driven....will I require coolers on the trans and diff?

 

Not needed

 

I would add a transmission cooler they are cheap and keep your transmission fluid cooler. Heat kills these transmissions especially the 6L80 which i believe you have.

 

Trans cooler is a good idea regardless, make sure you go with a good stack plate design in the front air stream, avoid the fin/tube ones and avoid fans covering the front of them. Fans can actually deflect air off the cooler. I personally recommend taking the radiator out of the loop but a lot will argue against it even though they can rarely provide a legit reason. I've had my car set up that way for the last 4 years on a Derale stack plate right behind the grill. Barely ever seen temps over 190, typically it stays around 140-160.

 

I put a cooler on my trans, not the diff. In hot weather romping around my trans was getting hot. Stacked plate cooler, no fan-works great.
I also put an inline thermostat, living in the North East it helps getting the trans up to temp quicker in the colder months.

 

I left my cooler in loop with the radiator, admittedly it was the easier way but no argument here bypassing the radiator, I've had other cars plumbed that way.

 

It wont hurt to leave it in but my thing was, and RPM confirmed all its doing is pulling heat from the engine into the trans circuit. Frank Cahill (god rest his soul) use to argue this to death saying it would cause a catostrophic failure if you routed it out of the loop and that info use to be everywhere back in the day. I think its pretty standard practice now though.

 

We all chase these things all the time lol and yes it does pull heat from the engine I wouldn't argue that.
If you have an old school non overdrive trans, especially with an N/A set up with high stall converter, maybe you want to keep the fluid going through the Radiator because the radiator will be getting alot of airflow on the highway which is where I always had trouble keep trans temps in check but then you have the engine to keep cool as well at the sustained highway rpms. Maybe you have a Bigger radiator? aluminum vs iron block? where do you live and what season is it?
Twin Turbo car makes ton of under hood heat, maybe on the highway that's more kept in check but driving around town maybe not so much so maybe you have to separate the trans plumbing from the radiator to keep those temps in check and with a lower stall converter everything works out just fine.
Also a certain type install on say an old Malibu with a huge front grill may work for that car in a certain way but not so much on our cars because the grill is 25% of that of a Malibu and much less room in the engine bay.

 

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I run a 2800 Yank on a tt setup.
Dewitts rad w brushless fan.
Tranny fluid routed thru the rad, past an inline thermostat, to the stacked-plate external cooler w fan, then back to the trans. The fan can be toggled on/off as well.
I have inline thermostats (improved racing) because oil/tranny temps actually stay too cool too long. Although we don't see extreme temps like some.
Zero issues with oil/tranny fluid running too hot.



I have mesh screens in place of fog lights.

The original engine/tranny with a somewhat mild set-up at 680whp/680tq, with oem converter (which is 1800? IIRC) I ran no external cooler(s) and got 100k miles out of it (60k mi with tt at only 7psi). Never saw crazy high temps, although it's a street car. The only issue I had was eventual flaring of the 2-3 and 3-4 clutchpacks which is inevitable for oem quality over time.

 

Depends on how you use the power, since yes if your going to road course work the car, but if just playing street racing, or strip games, then no, since you into the power for a total of 20 second, including burn out to warm up the tires. Hell, even if you playing Texas mile runs, still not into the power long enough to justify cooler on trans or diff.

As for supercharger, can get to 600+ with either centrifical or roots blower, and just depends where you want the power to hit.
For road course work, TVS since you gain power off idle/torque goes max off idle, so power is continuse from off idle up to control the back end out of the corners, come out a gear high to grunt the motor out of the corners. Centrifical, hit about mid range up, and great for strip kind of work, since going to be playing rev ranger most of the time, but blows trying to use one for road course work, since have to play reve ranger to hold the car on boost out of the corner, since you play low revs and climbing on the way out, once boost hits, back end is going to come around.

As for playing rev ranger on the road course out of the corners, with motor putting out 600+ horsepower, and keeping the back end in check on anything short of a T1 car, better driver than most Pro card drivers. Back in 944 days, turbo's had spool kit to keep is on boost, but we talking a hell of lot less torque that the motor made even while playig rev range on R tires, so at least it was controllable. Hence forget about HP for a second, and take a look at the dyno's charts for both types of blower, since one boost, torque just maxes out when blower comes on boost.

So short of strip running, and just street driving, hard to beat the TVS Maggie HeatBeat, since fits under the hood, and blower is putting out boost way down low, where you going to running the car most of the time to begin with. Also, leave some TM on in the tune, so your not smoking the tires every time you breath heavy on the gas pedal.