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I recently bought a project c6, it was not running due to security issues. When I first got it, it had the no fobs detected messaged in the display, I was able to get both of the fobs that came with the car working. With both of the fobs now working I go to start the car, the old rcdlr would click and I could hear the relays working but when I would hit the start button it would act like its starting with the gauges maxing out but then lose all power for a couple of seconds and be in an accessory mode like if you hold the bottom of the start button down for 5 seconds but the security lock is on. The old rcdlr would work with the fobs like being able to lock and unlock the car, open the hatch, keyless entry and set off the alarms but I wasnt able to reprogram any new key fobs. I tried to use the actual key and using the key hole for the trunk turning it 5 times and under 5 seconds with no luck probably about 30 times lol. The key slot in the glovebox doesn't work to start the car either. So I started to replace all the parts that I thought could be the problem, I replaced the trunk button on the rear bumper because it was broken, installed a new push start button, ordered a brand new key fob, I've checked every single fuse in the car and have swapped out the relays. The car has a brand new engine bay fuse box that the previous owner installed from him trying to diagnose some things. The weird thing is that the guy I bought the car from said he bought it not running, he said the engine bay fuse box, all of the fuses in it were loose? so that's why he replaced it. He said that he put a brand new fuse box and a new battery in it and it started right up! Drove it 3-4 times then parked it in a trailer then it never ran again which doesn't make sense at all to me lol. I ordered a used rcdlr and a knockoff tech 2 scanner and installed the new rcdlr. Right after I installed the new rcdlr I tried to use the key hole to program the new key fobs which worked. So now I know that all the new key fobs and internal transmitters work inside the car. I hook up the tech 2 scanner to try to reprogram the new rcdlr but it says that it is unable to communicate with the ecm and it says it cant read the vin off the bcm. I have to clear the codes on the dtc for the unknown rcdlr then turn off the tech 2 and turn it back on then it says that the rcdlr is locked. The entire time I'm doing this the security light is on I've been in the car for probably 45 min with the "car trying to start" mode and the security system is still locked. I have tried it multiple times for probably a total of 3 hours, with the battery charger hooked up and not hooked up. The only way for me to get the security light to go away is to clear the codes for the unknown rcdlr but even after that nothing happens, even tried the key slot then. I've tried clearing all of the codes for the theft deterrent using the tech 2 but still no luck. I have tried everything I can think of and have spent hours and hours doing research and still at a stand still. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I think the next steps I would try is getting a new ecm already programmed to the vin and if that doesn't work I'll probably put a Holley terminator x in it
First off what year is the car...manual or auto ??...with the Tech 2 what modules can you communicate with or can you communicate with anything at all ??...if you can look at live data on that module you can basically communicate with it...any module that you can't communicate with the first thing you check is that modules powers and grounds...this is electrical diagnostics 101....a communication issue on either the low speed serial data bus or high speed bus can cause a no start condition...I deleted your same post in the general section...only one at a time....with the car locked can you even get into it either passively or with the FOB ??...my fuse 11 in the under hood Fusebox is labeled ECM/TCM/EASY KEY...if the fuse is not powered ( full system voltage) or blown the RCDLR and the ECM are not being powered (battery power) so you can't get into the car nor will it start....you will also not be able to communicate with both of those modules...that fuse is "hot at all times"....my advice is to find an auto electric shop in your area and not throw parts at it...I'd put the old one in and continue diagnosing....if you hold the start button down for 5 seconds that is not ACCY mode...that is run or ignition on mode...the green start light will illuminate.
I recently bought a project c6, it was not running due to security issues. When I first got it, it had the no fobs detected messaged in the display, I was able to get both of the fobs that came with the car working. With both of the fobs now working I go to start the car, the old rcdlr would click and I could hear the relays working but when I would hit the start button it would act like its starting with the gauges maxing out but then lose all power for a couple of seconds and be in an accessory mode like if you hold the bottom of the start button down for 5 seconds but the security lock is on. The old rcdlr would work with the fobs like being able to lock and unlock the car, open the hatch, keyless entry and set off the alarms but I wasnt able to reprogram any new key fobs. I tried to use the actual key and using the key hole for the trunk turning it 5 times and under 5 seconds with no luck probably about 30 times lol. The key slot in the glovebox doesn't work to start the car either. So I started to replace all the parts that I thought could be the problem, I replaced the trunk button on the rear bumper because it was broken, installed a new push start button, ordered a brand new key fob, I've checked every single fuse in the car and have swapped out the relays. The car has a brand new engine bay fuse box that the previous owner installed from him trying to diagnose some things. The weird thing is that the guy I bought the car from said he bought it not running, he said the engine bay fuse box, all of the fuses in it were loose? so that's why he replaced it. He said that he put a brand new fuse box and a new battery in it and it started right up! Drove it 3-4 times then parked it in a trailer then it never ran again which doesn't make sense at all to me lol. I ordered a used rcdlr and a knockoff tech 2 scanner and installed the new rcdlr. Right after I installed the new rcdlr I tried to use the key hole to program the new key fobs which worked. So now I know that all the new key fobs and internal transmitters work inside the car.
I hook up the tech 2 scanner to try to reprogram the new rcdlr but it says that it is unable to communicate with the ecm and it says it cant read the vin off the bcm. I have to clear the codes on the dtc for the unknown rcdlr then turn off the tech 2 and turn it back on then it says that the rcdlr is locked. The entire time I'm doing this the security light is on I've been in the car for probably 45 min with the "car trying to start" mode and the security system is still locked. I have tried it multiple times for probably a total of 3 hours, with the battery charger hooked up and not hooked up. The only way for me to get the security light to go away is to clear the codes for the unknown rcdlr but even after that nothing happens, even tried the key slot then. I've tried clearing all of the codes for the theft deterrent using the tech 2 but still no luck. I have tried everything I can think of and have spent hours and hours doing research and still at a stand still. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! I think the next steps I would try is getting a new ecm already programmed to the vin and if that doesn't work I'll probably put a Holley terminator x in it
It sounds like your original problem was a weak battery or loose connection at the starter. Your current problem is figuring out how to reflash a used RCDLR, which I would avoid doing if possible. I think your original RCDLR is probably okay.
First off what year is the car...manual or auto ??...with the Tech 2 what modules can you communicate with or can you communicate with anything at all ??...if you can look at live data on that module you can basically communicate with it...any module that you can't communicate with the first thing you check is that modules powers and grounds...this is electrical diagnostics 101....a communication issue on either the low speed serial data bus or high speed bus can cause a no start condition...I deleted your same post in the general section...only one at a time....with the car locked can you even get into it either passively or with the FOB ??...my fuse 11 in the under hood Fusebox is labeled ECM/TCM/EASY KEY...if the fuse is not powered ( full system voltage) or blown the RCDLR and the ECM are not being powered (battery power) so you can't get into the car nor will it start....you will also not be able to communicate with both of those modules...that fuse is "hot at all times"....my advice is to find an auto electric shop in your area and not throw parts at it...I'd put the old one in and continue diagnosing....if you hold the start button down for 5 seconds that is not ACCY mode...that is run or ignition on mode...the green start light will illuminate.
2006 manual, the tech 2 is able to communicate with a lot of the bcm functions, like the headlights, door switches, horn etc. Something that is weird but I don't think is related is that the horn on the steering wheel doesn't work, but when I use the tech 2 to send power to the horn it works, it also works with the fob when I lock it, when I use the alarm, or if you leave the fob in the car and close the door it honks twice to remind you. I just took the battery out to charge it overnight and took out the #11 fuse to completely drain all power from the car. The car has a new ac Delco 88866263 90g battery and I checked the terminals on the starter and none of them were loose. The main problem is that the security light is always on when the igntion is in the run position, it will never turn off with the old rcdlr or the new one. The main reason why I believed my rcdlr was bad was because I found this video on YouTube
, which I was having the same exact symptoms that he was having. My old rcdlr was not letting my reprogram any new fobs in with using the key hole on the bumper. I would turn the key 5 times in under 5 seconds and nothing would happen, tried it multiple times. With the new rcdlr the first thing I did after I plugged it in was try the key hole again and it worked first try and was able to program the new keys in so that problem is fixed. What I am having trouble with is the security light being constantly on so I am unable to do the 30 minute procedure by letting the car sit in the power mode for 10 minutes then the security light turns off and do that 2 more times so the car can read the password for the new rcdlr. C5 Diag I will try to power on more functions with the tech 2 and make a list and also get a new multimeter and check fuse 11 for power, I don't have one anymore because I moved. I have also tried jumping the clutch position switch with lo luck on that either and the key slot in the glovebox still does not work for starting the car. Previous owner said he checked all of the chassis grounds and sanded and cleaned them and I have checked them as well.
This may help if you have an 05 to 09...this is from an older TSB...I'd put the old one in and let us know what you are seeing when trying to start the car....what CTD DTC's were you seeing ??
PIC4880A: RCDLR Locks Up When Programming Or No Communication - keywords chime chirp detected DIC fob horn key lock message no program reminder RKE transmitter up - (Oct 8, 2008)
Subject: RCDLR Locks Up When Programming Or No Communication
Models: 2005-2009 Cadillac XLR
2005-2009 Chevrolet Corvette
This PI was superseded to update model years. Please discard PIC4880.
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
Some technicians may comment that the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) "Locks Up" during programming or when attempting to communicate or there is no communication with the RCDLR.
This may be the result of a time out feature within the RCDLR or when programming the RCDLR. It is possible that the necessary fuses that needed to be removed for programming were not removed.
Recommendation/Instructions:
Prior to establishing communication with the RCDLR, press the mode switch as if you were attempting to start the vehicle. This will "wake up" the RCDLR and should allow communication. If there is a delay when attempting to communicate with the RCDLR, the mode switch may need to be pressed again to "wake up" the RCDLR.
If attempting to program the RCDLR and the module "Locks Up" it can be reset by removing the RCDLR fuse (#11 in the UBEC) for at least 30 seconds or longer and then reinstalling it. Once this fuse is reinstalled in the UBEC, there will be a 2 minute window to restart the programming of the RCDLR through TIS2WEB.
Failure to restart the programming of the RCDLR through TIS2WEB within 2 minutes may cause programming to fail and this procedure will need to be repeated.
It is recommended that the Tech 2 remain connected to the vehicle and that the TIS2WEB application is open and ready to program the vehicle prior to reinstalling RCDLR fuse #11 into the UBEC. Once you are ready to program, install fuse #11 and initialize programming immediately.
Important:
Prior to programming per the information below, the Radio and HVAC Fuses MUST be removed and the ignition must be in "Key On Engine Off Mode" The radio and HVAC fuses can be located in the BCM fuse block on the passenger's side floor electrical center. One of the fuses is labeled RDO/S'BAND/VICS and the other is labeled HVAC/PWR SND.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
#PIC3225J: Set Up RCDLR After Replacement - (Apr 13, 2018) Subject: Set Up RCDLR After Replacement Chevrolet
Corvette
2005 - 2013
All
All
All
All
Supersession StatementThis PI has been superseded to update Model Years.. Please discard all copies of PIC3225H.
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/ConcernThere have been questions regarding the programming and/or set up when replacing the Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR). The following steps can be used as a guide when replacing the RCDLR. As always, please refer to Service Information (SI) for the replacement instructions.
Recommendation/Instructions2004 Cadillac XLRImportant: When replacing ANY components in the RKE system, have the Parts department contact Partech to verify that the correct PN components are being ordered. Originally, the RCDLR and the transmitters were only available as a preprogrammed matched set for the 2004 Cadillac XLR. This is no longer the case. All components are currently available separately.
Plug in the new RCDLR
Perform module setup in the scan tool.
Program the Theft Deterrent System learn using either the 10 or 30 minute theft relearn procedure. (eSI Document ID # 1460252). Canada and Export vehicles will not allow 30 minute autolearn procedure.
Learn the tire pressure sensors. (eSI Document ID # 1396476)
2005 - 2009 Cadillac XLR and 2005 - 2013 Chevrolet Corvette
Verify that the Tech 2 is on version 33.004
Perform the RKE transmitter programming procedure. If the RCDLR has been replaced, select the instructions in SI for "New RCDLR ONLY" (eSI Document ID # 2310804)
Perform the RCDLR Setup procedure using the Tech 2.
Perform the Theft Deterrent System learn using the 10 or 30 minute theft relearn procedure for Domestic, Canadian, or Japanese vehicles. Other Export vehicles will not allow the 30 minute autolearn procedure.
Perform the TPM sensor learn procedure.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on
First off what year is the car...manual or auto ??...with the Tech 2 what modules can you communicate with or can you communicate with anything at all ??...if you can look at live data on that module you can basically communicate with it...any module that you can't communicate with the first thing you check is that modules powers and grounds...this is electrical diagnostics 101....a communication issue on either the low speed serial data bus or high speed bus can cause a no start condition...I deleted your same post in the general section...only one at a time....with the car locked can you even get into it either passively or with the FOB ??...my fuse 11 in the under hood Fusebox is labeled ECM/TCM/EASY KEY...if the fuse is not powered ( full system voltage) or blown the RCDLR and the ECM are not being powered (battery power) so you can't get into the car nor will it start....you will also not be able to communicate with both of those modules...that fuse is "hot at all times"....my advice is to find an auto electric shop in your area and not throw parts at it...I'd put the old one in and continue diagnosing....if you hold the start button down for 5 seconds that is not ACCY mode...that is run or ignition on mode...the green start light will illuminate.
Originally Posted by C5 Diag
This may help if you have an 05 to 09.
PIC4880A: RCDLR Locks Up When Programming Or No Communication - keywords chime chirp detected DIC fob horn key lock message no program reminder RKE transmitter up - (Oct 8, 2008)
Subject: RCDLR Locks Up When Programming Or No Communication
Models: 2005-2009 Cadillac XLR
2005-2009 Chevrolet Corvette
This PI was superseded to update model years. Please discard PIC4880.
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.
Condition/Concern:
Some technicians may comment that the RCDLR (Remote Control Door Lock Receiver) "Locks Up" during programming or when attempting to communicate or there is no communication with the RCDLR.
This may be the result of a time out feature within the RCDLR or when programming the RCDLR. It is possible that the necessary fuses that needed to be removed for programming were not removed.
Recommendation/Instructions:
Prior to establishing communication with the RCDLR, press the mode switch as if you were attempting to start the vehicle. This will "wake up" the RCDLR and should allow communication. If there is a delay when attempting to communicate with the RCDLR, the mode switch may need to be pressed again to "wake up" the RCDLR.
If attempting to program the RCDLR and the module "Locks Up" it can be reset by removing the RCDLR fuse (#11 in the UBEC) for at least 30 seconds or longer and then reinstalling it. Once this fuse is reinstalled in the UBEC, there will be a 2 minute window to restart the programming of the RCDLR through TIS2WEB.
Failure to restart the programming of the RCDLR through TIS2WEB within 2 minutes may cause programming to fail and this procedure will need to be repeated.
It is recommended that the Tech 2 remain connected to the vehicle and that the TIS2WEB application is open and ready to program the vehicle prior to reinstalling RCDLR fuse #11 into the UBEC. Once you are ready to program, install fuse #11 and initialize programming immediately.
Important:
Prior to programming per the information below, the Radio and HVAC Fuses MUST be removed and the ignition must be in "Key On Engine Off Mode" The radio and HVAC fuses can be located in the BCM fuse block on the passenger's side floor electrical center. One of the fuses is labeled RDO/S'BAND/VICS and the other is labeled HVAC/PWR SND.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.
Thank you I will try all of these steps and get back to you, and something I forgot to mention to you in my previous reply, yes the doors open with passive entry and with the fob
Thank you I will try all of these steps and get back to you, and something I forgot to mention to you in my previous reply, yes the doors open with passive entry and with the fob
If you buy a new DVOM get a 12 volt incandescent test light and not an LED !!...easiest way to check fuses... anyone who works on their car should have one...I use my test light more than my DVOM.
Thank you I will try all of these steps and get back to you, and something I forgot to mention to you in my previous reply, yes the doors open with passive entry and with the fob
OK, then we at least know that that part of the Immobilizer system ( keyless entry) is functional.
Put the battery in as well as fuse 11, and pulled the radio and HVAC fuses as per your replies instructions. Tried the new rcdlr with the new key fob programmed to it because it was still plugged in. First I hit the start button and the same thing happened in the video as expected, so I turned on my tech 2 and tried to set up the new rcdlr but before I did that I popped the #11 fuse out waited 15 seconds and put it back in to start the 2 minute timer, go to setup the new rcdlr on the tech 2 and it says "No communication with vehicle. Check diagnostic link connector. Check ingnition (On/Off) ). The next screen says "Unable to retrieve VIN from BCM." I try the same thing again and it says "Test not completed. Controller is locked." I go to theft and deterrent to read the codes and they list:
Remote control door lock receiver U1000 Class 2 Data Link
Body control module U1000 Class 2 Data Link Symptom 00
Body control module U2105 Symptom 00 Lost communication with Engine control system
Body control module B3949 Symptom 05 Right front turn signal circuit short to battery or open (its unplugged)
Body control module U2108 Symptom 00 Lost communication with ABS/TCS Control system
Body control module U2100 Symptom 00 CAN Bus communication
I go to clear the codes and I get the " No communications with vehicle. Check diagnostic link connector. Check ignition (On/Off) ) message again.
I tried some other functions with the tech 2 as you requested and I was able to do the lights for the car inside and out, horn, door switches, I tested all the gauge cluster functions and the HUD and all of those worked but whenever I would try to do anything engine or ecm related I would get the same " No communications with vehicle. Check diagnostic link connector. Check ignition (On/Off) ) message. I tried to activate the starter relay which came with that message and I tried the fuel pump relay which I know works because every time I hit the start button the fuel pump primes.
I checked the DTC for the instrument cluster while I was there and here are the codes that popped up.
Instrument panel cluster U1000 Class 2 Data Link
Instrument panel cluster U1193 Lost communications with RCDLR
Instrument panel cluster U1040 Lost communications with EBCM
Instrument panel cluster U1017 Lost communications with Engine control system
Heads up display U1040 Lost communications with EBCM
Heads up display U1017 Lost communications with Engine control system
Heads up display U1000 Class 2 Data link
I was able to clear all of these successfully. Tried to start and still no luck, the security light was still on the whole time.
________________________________________ ________________________________________ ________________________________________ ______________________________________
ORIGINAL RCDLR
Then I plugged in the original rcdlr and used the original key fob that is not programmed to the new rcdlr. I popped out the #11 fuse to reset the ecm and tried to open the door which didn't open, put the 11 fuse back in and the passive entry worked so that confirms that the 11 fuse terminal is getting power or the RCDLR wouldnt work at all. I tested both key fobs that I had in my pocket to make sure it was the old key that was working still by popping the trunk and the new key didn't because I unplugged the new RCDLR.
With the original RCDLR plugged in I was able to clear the code that I got for it previously and was able to get the security light to go away( also goes away when you pop the #11 fuse). Tried to start the car and still nothing. I checked the Instrument panel DTCs again and got
Instrument panel cluster U1000 Class 2 Data Link
Instrument panel cluster U1040 Lost communications with EBCM
Instrument panel cluster U1193 Lost communications with RCDLR
Heads up display U1040 Lost communications with EBCM
Heads up display U1000 Class 2 Data link
and no communication to the ECM
codes were able to be cleared.
Tried to do more functions with the ecm and still no communication to the vehicle.
Pushed start button to reset 2 minute timer and Tried to setup new RCDLR and it said "Test not completed. Controller is locked." This is the original rcdlr so how could it not read the vin from the car that its been in? I checked the codes in the theft deterrent again... ecm no communication
Body control module U1000 Class 2 Data Link Symptom 00
Body control module U2105 Symptom 00 Lost communication with Engine control system
Body control module U1193 Symptom 00 Lost communication with RCDLR
Body control module U2108 Symptom 00 Lost communication with ABS/TCS
Body control module U2100 Symptom 00 CAN Bus communication
Couldn't clear the codes due to no communication to the vehicle.
Popped fuse 11 out again and the security light went off tried to start car, no luck. The security light came back on, I waited for 15 minutes still didn't turn off.
It looks like a communication issue going on there !!...let's look at the low speed serial data bus which is pin 2 on the DLC...with the key in ACCY mode or ON and DVOM connected to pin 2 and ground you should see a fluctuating voltage between 0.1 to 0.8 volts or so...with a lab scope you will see a 0-7 volt square wave...12 volts is bad (shorted to power) or close to ground which would be a short to ground....also with battery disconnected you should see around 4000 ohms (4 Kohms) using your ohm meter function...to check the high speed bus with battery disconnected you should see around 60 ohms between pins 6 and 14...here we are checking the "physical layer"...ie the wiring on the high speed CAN bus...since you have a few "no comms" concerning the BCM you can try to disconnect it and see if you can now communicate with the car with the Tech 2…maybe try unplugging the RCDLR too...short 2 second video of the serial data bus voltage at the bottom of the page...if this testing is over your head unfortunately 99.999% of general repair shops or dealerships will not know even where to start to diagnose this !!
With ignition in accy mode or ignition on you should see around 2.5 volts on pins 6 and also on pin 14…I’m using a CAN break out box so I don’t have to probe the terminals at the DLC…much easier !!..if the blue lights are blinking I know I have some kind of communication going on !!
Sorry for the delay, I got a new job and moved to another state and didn't have time to work on the car. I was able to get some readings from the ob2 port today.
I also installed a brand new ECU with the cars vin programmed to it just to see if it would work but still no communication to the Tech 2 issue.
Also tried unplugging the RCDLR like you mentioned but that did not help either.
Sorry for the delay, I got a new job and moved to another state and didn't have time to work on the car. I was able to get some readings from the ob2 port today.
I also installed a brand new ECU with the cars vin programmed to it just to see if it would work but still no communication to the Tech 2 issue.
Also tried unplugging the RCDLR like you mentioned but that did not help either.
What is the resistance reading with battery disconnected across 6 and 14 ??…120 or 60 ohms ??
Do you know how to read the Information Bus wiring schematic ??…sometimes it best to break the bus in half and check for continuity in either direction…X184 may be a good place to split the network in half...now on the wiring for an 06 I posted that is the non OEM wiring which does not include the connectors that may be in between each module and there is no OEM wiring for that year…I will post my 08 which does show all the connectors…best to buy a sub to Alldata DIY for a month or a year…this is too labor intensive to show you every pin out, location and connector view.
This is the OEM wiring for an 06 M/T…where you see in the rectangular box w/o UE1 means you don’t have Onstar…you follow those wires…C180 (X180) and C184 (X184) are connectors !!…those connectors are outboard of the battery…I will post a picture in next post....the 2 terminating 120 ohm resistors are in the BCM and ECM.
Need help with rcdlr
