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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by CJ042702
trying to do this with one person is tough but i never did get a start signal from 86

So did you put your friends scan tool on the car ??...if you don't get the test light to illuminate on 86 when pushing the start button we will check if the RUN/CRANK relay is working...if you have a good FOB and the BCM is seeing the brake pedal depressed the run/crank relay will energize...find ECM fuse 12 at the BCM Fusebox and when pushing the start button that fuse will receive power if the relay energizes and illuminate the test light...try that...with your friends scan tool you can see if you have a "crank request" and that the brake pedal is depressed...you can also see a Run/Crank data PID.
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Old Mar 4, 2025 | 05:35 PM
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i will check that. Thank you sir
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Old Mar 14, 2025 | 12:41 PM
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If you are unable to communicate with a critical module, I would focus my efforts there.
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Old Mar 27, 2025 | 12:51 PM
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so i did this and that fuse is energized. what is the next step to go to?
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Old Mar 27, 2025 | 02:58 PM
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Like I mentioned previously what modules can you communicate with ??…if you can’t communicate with the ECM like you said the car isn’t going to start…have you looked at the information bus ??…I think this may be over your head to diagnose so I suggest an an auto electric shop in your area !!
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Old Mar 27, 2025 | 03:02 PM
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im trying to get my hands on my friends scanner. based off the last time i had it hooked up we could communicate with everything except the tcm. I'm fixing to just run new can data wires between each module until it fixes it.
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Old Mar 27, 2025 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by CJ042702
im trying to get my hands on my friends scanner. based off the last time i had it hooked up we could communicate with everything except the tcm. I'm fixing to just run new can data wires between each module until it fixes it.
You should follow my #5 post…if the car runs and dies after 5-10 seconds it can be a crank sensor signal dropping out…WHY are you running new data wires ????…if you see 60 ohms between pins 6 and 14 at the DLC your data lines are fine !!!!…seek a professional because you will just waste your time and money !!..,and BTW the data lines are “twisted pairs” so you just don’t run new wires…they have to be twisted together !!
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Old Mar 27, 2025 | 03:16 PM
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the car will only intermittently crank other times it just blacks the dash out. When it does crank it will run for 5-10 seconds. I know that its not communicating with ecm because it says service fuel system and shows on on the fuel gauge when it does try to crank it will read the fuel gauge correctly.
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Old Mar 27, 2025 | 03:27 PM
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i followed #5 post instructions and it read 75 ohms
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Old Mar 27, 2025 | 03:48 PM
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Originally Posted by CJ042702
i followed #5 post instructions and it read 75 ohms

That is with battery DISCONNECTED ??
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Old Mar 27, 2025 | 03:54 PM
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yes battery disconnected
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Old Mar 27, 2025 | 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by CJ042702
the car will only intermittently crank other times it just blacks the dash out. When it does crank it will run for 5-10 seconds. I know that its not communicating with ecm because it says service fuel system and shows on on the fuel gauge when it does try to crank it will read the fuel gauge correctly.

Then you need to see if you have any “U” or communication codes…if a module can’t communicate with the ECM it will set that U code…if there is no comm with the ECM you check its powers and grounds first…you have a little high resistance on the CAN Bus…you should see 57 to maybe 63 ohms…you could split the information bus into 2 parts and check the resistance in either direction…you will see 120 ohms…if you see higher than 120 ohms you have to see what module connector may have some “green crusties” that we call it.
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Old Mar 27, 2025 | 04:35 PM
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thank you sir! i didnt know if it being a touch high with a cheap mulitimeter meant it was too high or not. i will check that
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Old Mar 27, 2025 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by CJ042702
thank you sir! i didnt know if it being a touch high with a cheap mulitimeter meant it was too high or not. i will check that

Just touch both leads of hour ohm meter together and you should see 0 ohms…if you see 2 ohms subtract that number from whatever you are taking a reading from.
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Old Mar 28, 2025 | 04:16 PM
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I FIXED IT!!!!! Ecm wasnt getting energized i ran a jumper to it and fixed it!!!
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Old Mar 28, 2025 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by CJ042702
I FIXED IT!!!!! Ecm wasnt getting energized i ran a jumper to it and fixed it!!!

A jumper from where to where ??
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Old Mar 28, 2025 | 04:42 PM
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to be sure i just ran it straight from battery hot and car fired right up. Gonna tie into key on power and let it ride
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Old Mar 28, 2025 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by CJ042702
to be sure i just ran it straight from battery hot and car fired right up. Gonna tie into key on power and let it ride

From the battery to WHERE ??
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Old Apr 20, 2025 | 01:24 AM
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Disregard my fix. Apparently xm2 connector is having an issue and somehow while messing with the xm1 connector I moved it just right and got comms for a bit. I’ve narrowed it down to an issue in the xm2 connector somewhere not getting a good connection as I can hold the connector down with my hand and get communication. We tried a bandaid fix with zipties and it got by for a few days but back to same problem. I can not for the life of me figure out why it’s having a connection issue still and I’m fixing to throw in the towel on the whole car
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Old Apr 20, 2025 | 09:04 AM
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I don’t know if you established communication again but the COMM lines are on X1 (black 73 pin connector) pins 27 and 28…is the lever lock fully engaged ??…you would need to do a pin drag or terminal tension test as it is called to see any of the terminals are spread apart.







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