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I recently burned my clutch line on my headers. After fixing it according to how many have done with hydraulic fittings I went to go bleed the clutch. I filled the reservoir and went to put the pedal but no fluid goes down into it. The pedal just goes straight to the floor. Am I doing something wrong?
it’s a brand new master and slave cylinder with a remote bleeder. Has less than 10 miles on both.
i'd try that, with someone working the pedal.
And if that doesn't help, maybe pressure right into the port at the bottom of the MC (remote open)...like a power bleeder. I presume the MC was bench bled, or pre-bled?
i'd try that, with someone working the pedal.
And if that doesn't help, maybe pressure right into the port at the bottom of the MC (remote open). I presume the MC was bench bled, or pre-bled?
It wasn’t. It was all good and bled fine before, then I lost all fluid when I burned my clutch line.
do you mean the line going from the MC to the slave?
so, maybe you need to remove the MC and try bench bleeding it first...
like i said, haven't experienced this. just spit balling here and throwing a couple ideas out
so, maybe you need to remove the MC and try bench bleeding it first...
like i said, haven't experienced this. just spit balling here and throwing a couple ideas out
ye man, I appreciate it. Any help is great. It was around 1130 last night when I gave up bleeding it, so I’ll probably go ahead and pull the master out and try bleeding it. What’s the procedure for that? Or is that just best to use vacuum?
Or, perhaps instead of removing it, you can even just disconnect the connection, and have someone hold the line's end submerged into a small cup of brake fluid and then slowly pump the pedal (not allowing the reservoir to empty).
Otherwise undo the fitting on the MC and attach a hose to it, back into the reservoir. You can be creative if you don't want to actually remove it...which may be easier at this point.
And if thats all bled ok and still doesn't work, i;d try the vacuum pump on the remote bleeder
Or, perhaps instead of removing it, you can even just disconnect the connection, and have someone hold the line's end submerged into a small cup of brake fluid and then slowly pump the pedal (not allowing the reservoir to empty).
Otherwise undo the fitting on the MC and attach a hose to it, back into the reservoir. You can be creative if you don't want to actually remove it...which may be easier at this point.
And if thats all bled ok and still doesn't work, i;d try the vacuum pump on the remote bleeder
alright, appreciate your help. I’ll give that a try here in a bit and see if I can make some progress. I’m going to try and not have to remove that master. I’ll keep you updated. thank you
To get to here, being the slave bleeder valve out the to bell housing at the torque tube.So you can open the slave cylinder bleeder, to allow the air to come out of it.
So you can open the slave cylinder bleeder, to allow the air to come out of it as the master is pushing fluid to it.
Bench bleeding the master may help a touch, but without bench bleeding the slave/using the slave bleed valve, going to take fore every to get the air out of the slave, even through the fluid line for the slave is semi up hill to the master cylinder.
To get to here, being the slave bleeder vavle out the to bell housing.So you can open the slave cylinder bleeder, to allow the air to come out of it.
So you can open the slave cylinder bleeder, to allow the air to come out of it.
Bench bleeding the master may help a touch, but without bench bleeding the slave or using the slave bleed valve, going to take fore every to get the air out of the slave, even through the fluid line for the slave is semi up hill to the master cylinder.
I’ve got the remote bleeder so it’s all in the engine bay. I don’t get any fluid that goes down into the master itself to pump it into the slave to be able to bleed it.