Going to remove the heads on my LS2 to replace the lifters and lifter trays since I just installed a cam. I am not going to have the heads or block machined.

Do I remove the head bolts in any sequence or just unzip them? Small bolts first then big bolts? Reverse of the install pattern?

I never had any issues, just want to make sure they don’t become warped during disassembly.

 

On the two head swaps that I’ve done I don't recall using any particular sequence for removal. That’s more important during install. I don’t think you’d hurt anything just pulling them out in whatever order you wish.

*Edit- I found the LS7 DIY head swap thread on this forum. It recommended that you break them loose in reverse order from that which you use to torque them. I followed those instructions both times, so perhaps there is something to using a particular order.

 

Common sense tells me to remove the outer bolts first then work your way to the center. Install would be the opposite, start in the middle and work your way to the outside.
But I'm no expert

 

I know yours isn’t an LS7, this is just for reference. The sequence may be the same regardless of which LS platform.

 

I definitely reverse serpentine

 

I've done *alot* of these here is some tips
A. Nows a decent opportunity to address front main seal and balancer maint
B. do not machine the head or block, but now is a good time to fix threads if any exhaust are stripped, which seems common
C. Best to do springs while head are off , using spring compressor tool that does not engage rocker threads
D. Brand new tty head bolt and balancer bolts, do not use ARP studs without machining the block with a deck plate, the cylinder will out of round
E. Do not touch lifters with human skin contact, salts from skin nucleate deposits which leads to grit buildup and roller seizure, catastrophic failure,
Only use brand new disposable gloves with fresh synthetic oil
F. match old and new head gasket to make sure you have the right gasket and its facing the right side up (they say UP usually)
G. If its not an MLS gasket style head, now is your chance to find a MLS style head / gasket if it exists, no copper spray
H. Pay close attn to the Service manual procedure, use AIR to blow out the head gasket bolt holes so it does not crack the block, use Acetone to clear the prep the deck surface, do not use Circular or electric/air tools to clean the deck or head, only hand motion and light wiping motions. I sometimes use light emery like the green sponge materials but not the sand papery kind.
The main cleaning tool for head and deck is careful use of a clean new razor blade lightly oiled
I. Keep the cylinders coated in oil. Manually oil each cylinder to keep from rusting. It will rust in seconds if exposed to air. Keep oiled rags stuffed in the cylinders if you leave it for a length of time.
J. It takes time to form adhesive sealing in the gasket, after replacement drive the car easy and heat cycle the engine several times before building high cylinder pressure, to let the gasket a chance to stick down well. The longer it has to heat cycle and stick, the better the seal becomes over time.
Always cover the engine if leaving it, never let it open to air for any length of time.

The main and most important aspect whenever opening an engine is to keep it clean inside. A tiny bit of sand, grain of grit, is enough to stop a roller or clog an orifice and leads to failure,
work clean, don't take risks with debris falling into the oil system. carefully plug all holes with towels before doing any gasket removal.





ruud ruck

 

I remove head bolts with an impact wrench in no particular order.

 

It’s more important how you put them in.imo
I always let them sit overnight and retorque the next day( MLS head gasket) usually
find a few loosing up over night.
imo your better off using speedmaster head studs than tty bolts.just make sure
you ruff up the bottom of the washer (60 grit)that goes against the head and leave the washer dry between head and the bottom of the washer
use arp lubricant on the nuts and top of the washer.were the head is machined so slick,this might help you from pulling threads out of your block.
it has happen

 

I also remove the water pump and suck out some of the water (plews suction gun - basically a big syringe) so that when you pull heads off no mess (on floor, bolt holes or in cylinders). It also helps with the one pesky power steering bracket bolt that is difficult to get too. I use plews suction gun to bleed the system when all back together so no air pockets. I use suction gun on top small hose that goes to the overflow fill/tank and suck the coolant through the system.

 

I pulled the heads off. Used a shop vac to suck out all of the coolant so the job was really clean pulling it all apart. I did this because I already had the water pump off plus the front timing cover since I put a new camshaft in. New front main seal as well along with a summit racing harmonic balancer and arp crank bolt.

Removed the bolts reverse of the tightening sequence. Sent them off to the machine shop to be cleaned and checked out even thought there were no issues prior. They said there was very minor pitting around some of the valves but they held vacuum perfectly. I opted to have them do a 3 angle valve job. They also resurfaced the head but are only taking off .003 thousands of an inch. I’ll be picking them up in a couple days.

As far as the block, I already have a plan to clean it with plastic bristle brushes and a razor along with acetone. I bought a straight edge bar that is meant to verify flatness along with some feeler gauges which I need for when I put oil pump back in.

Im not decking the block which I called ARP and they said I don’t have to deck the block unless it was warped or had coolant and oil mixing when using the regular head studs. They said you do have to deck the block if you had issues prior to removal or if you’re using their head studs that are rated for 1000+ horsepower but not for what I am doing. I decided I was going to use their ARP head bolts instead of their head studs or the GM torque to yield bolts. ARP said their head studs will take me to 900-1000hp and are stronger than GM TTY bolts. I chose the bolts because I will have fitment issues with the drivers side cylinder head because the block is still in the car. I’m going to use LS9 head gaskets.







Why are some people against using ARP head bolts or their studs if your not decking the block? ARP doesn’t seem to think it will be an issue since nothing was warped and the heads were verified flat at the machine shop.

One BIG question I have is do people reuse the block/head pin guides or do you all replace them? They look perfect and I pulled the heads straight up but some people are adamant that they have to be replaced and I’ve read a few who say just reuse them if they are not bent or marred up.

 

In automotive school they taught us
to remove in reverse order

 

Look up what a deck plate is and what it does
If you want to use studs a deck plate is bolted down to the block in the exact sequence with the exact torque spec/lube as will be used with the real head, and then the block is BORED not decked for cylinder roundness when fully torqued.
If you fail to bore block with deck plate when changing torque/hardware/procedures/etc.... the cylinders will not be the same roundness as original.
When bolts are used the block was bored originally with those bolts from the factory to ensure round cylinders.

This is the same issue facing rod bolt changing hardware- new hardware, different roundness. Rods need machine work when changing rod hardware or it won't be round.

People do stuff all the time like smoking, junk food, wrong machine work, its fine, they think, in the moment, but nobody can see the long term health affects until it is too late.
If you need to convince yourself there are several youtube videos people measuring roundness before and after hardware changes to show you and you can always measure yourself.

You talking about dowels? Dowel pins are considered as integral, the union of two pieces, the strength if you will between the two parts is largely in the dowels.
They need to fit absolutely tight, depth, union, they handle stress, while requires proper fitment.
I've always re-used them because they are very stout pieces, unless they've been rusted or damaged. If somebody rips them out of the block or head or bell housing they get all marked up and ruined, don't re-use those. But I see no reason to not re-use perfectly good condition dowels in majority of mild apps.