Hello, just picked up a 2005 C6 and it has some aftermarket modifications. The main issue is this Lingenfelter TRG-002 58x to 24x conversion module. Now based off quick research it shows that it is mainly used if the LS3 was swapped in and to trick the computer into thinking it still has the stock 24x reluctor or something. I replaced the entire exhaust system back to stock, replaced the cam shaft sensor because there was an error code P0340 and P0341, and I had it tuned to stock (tried to pass smog but the system said it failed due to it being tuned. Now the module seems to have a wire running to underneath the engine and is also tapped into a fuse. When I unplug it the car just cranks and won't start and I get a code for the crankshaft. Now when I initially had it detuned, I was able to get it to pass a California smog check. However, after replacing the camshaft sensor the error code randomly comes back. I have a few questions. There are no codes for the crankshaft sensor, just for the camshaft sensor.

Could the error be coming back because of the detuned car with the module still installed?
If the module is installed does that mean this car possibly has a LS3?
Could the error just be due to the sensor not being properly plugged in?
If I replace the crankshaft sensor will it be able to run without the module plugged in?

Any info on the module and what specifically it is used for will be good. Thank you

 

Your 2005 computer expects 24 crank sensor pulses and 1 cam sensor pulse per revolution. All later model engines generate 58 crank sensor pulses and 4 cam sensor pulses per revolution.

The pulse rates are determined by the physical features of a reluctor wheel pressed on the end of the crankshaft and a sprocket bolted to the front of the camshaft. The crank and cam sensors detect these features as they pass by.

The Lingenfelter gizmo takes the crank and cam sensor signals from your engine as inputs. It outputs new crank and cam signals for your computer at the lower pulse rates.

The only alternative is to take the engine completely apart to install a different reluctor wheel and cam sprocket.

You may have a later LS2 installed. The 2006 and 2007 LS2 used the 58x reluctor, just like the LS3.

 

Ok, so do you think I should install a ls3 cam sensor? Because the cam sensor I bought was specifically based off the vin

 

Missing the point,, since what the ECM needs to see,verses what the sensors are picking up/sending out, is two different things.

So doe not mater if Ls3 or LS2 sensor, since will still be the pulses that are being sent out,and its the Lingenfelter gizmo that is converting them to what the E-40 ECM needs.

So again, E40 needs to see 24 crank sensor pulses and 1 cam sensor pulse per revolution, sounds like later ls2 that is putting out 58 crank sensor pulses and 4 cam sensor pulses per revolution, and its not the sensors, but the Lingenfelter gizmo that is doing the covertion on what the E-40 ecm needs.

So unless you want to change the engine back to reluctor wheel pressed on the end of the crankshaft and a sprocket bolted to the front of the camshaft that the sensors will only pick up the 24 crank sensor pulses and 1 cam sensor pulse per revolution, will need to run the Lingenfelter converter.

 

Ok sorry for my misunderstanding. The Lingenfelter converter is currently plugged in but the code is still popping for the camshaft sensor even after replacing it with a brand. So the issue is the module?

 

If you are still getting both of those DTC's one is a "circuit" fault and the other is a "performance" one...even with a bad cam sensor the car should still start although you may have an extended crank before it does...with the engine cranking does your scan tool show any RPM ??...if not may be a bad crank sensor....do you know how to check these 3 wire sensors ??...it is a 12 volt reference, signal and low reference.

 

Ok so I did drop the car off to my mechanic and I will relay that message thank you.

The car does start it just takes a few seconds sometimes but other times it will start right up. So do you think it could be more related to a bad sensor or a wiring issue?

 

If your mechanic has the car let him diagnose it unless you want to flatbed the car down here to Florida…I can’t tell you if its wiring or the sensor…where did you buy the sensor ??…if Amazon or EBay it’s probably the sensor…hopefully your mechanics electrical diagnostic skills if more than checking a fuse and other than checking the wiring he should be doing a "pin drag" test…good luck !!…I normally check cam and crank sensors with a lab scope.

 

Thank you. I bought the sensor from Parts Authority and the brand was Holstein. Sounds good, just wanted to gather insight to help my mechanic narrow it down. Thank you

 

The Lingenfelter module is a crank and cam sensor emulator. The actual crank and cam sensors are no longer connected to the car's computer. They are connected to the module. When the computer complains about the cam sensor signal, it is complaining about the signal generated by the Lingenfelter module.

Any number of things could be causing the module not to generate a valid signal for the car's computer. Your mechanic needs to check out the whole system. There are troubleshooting steps provided in the Lingenfelter module instructions. The module also provides some internal diagnostics output in the form of blinking LED lights.

 

Ohh ok got it, I will make sure he checks the module. The car came with the module so am I able to find the instructions online?

 

Holstein ??…that’s maybe your problem !!…that’s a cow !!…always best to get an OEM sensor whether from the dealer if available or from a supplier like Rock Auto…I’ve had good luck with SMP if not AC Delco.

 

Ah ok I will also buy the AC Delco brand, thank you

 

Sensors like these for ANY car should always be OEM if possible…and as I mentioned SMP (Standard Motor Products) is a good alternative to OEM.

 

Got it, when I initially ordered parts authority showed the Holstein was just as good as the AC Delco but will order that or the SMP brand

 

Well that’s THEIR opinion of that brand…like I said I’ve never heard of it or would even consider using it…any Tier 1 supplier should be good…Bosch, Delphi, SMP, Denso.

 

Sounds good, thank you