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I picked up an 05 with a completely rebuilt 6.0. New rotating assy, custom texas speed cam, Johnson lifters on trick flow heads, yella terra rockers etc. etc.
When its cold there is a lot of clatter that surely sounds like the lifters are bleeding down and taking a second to pump up and after that second all is well. Successive startups are not an issue unless it sits for half a day. Is this normal for these lifters?
The car has an accumulator that is not plumbed in yet to get more mileage on the build which I imagine if I manually operate it will prelube the valvetrain and make it a non/little issue.
I would suggest checking the pushrod length and making sure your preload is correct on those Johnson lifters. The window is pretty small for correct preload on those. I have Johnson 2110R lifters and the only time I get any kind of lifter clatter on a cold start is when it has been sitting for probably at least four or five days and it’s very minimal noise only for a couple seconds
Running Johnson 2110s and have experienced this too.
May want to try pushing the gas pedal to the floor upon cold start to engage clear flood mode. Only takes a couple of seconds, then let up on the gas pedal to add spark. Brings oil up through the system before starting. In my case, takes care of the dry lifter sound on cold start described. YMMV.
Running Johnson 2110s and have experienced this too.
May want to try pushing the gas pedal to the floor upon cold start to engage clear flood mode. Only takes a couple of seconds, then let up on the gas pedal to add spark. Brings oil up through the system before starting. In my case, takes care of the dry lifter sound on cold start described. YMMV.
I think maybe it has something to do with the Johnson lifters having a smaller diameter body and holding less pressure so possibly they leak down a bit faster. Priming the system isn’t a bad idea if the car has been sitting for awhile. I usually do that if I haven’t started it in a week
I think maybe it has something to do with the Johnson lifters having a smaller diameter body and holding less pressure so possibly they leak down a bit faster. Priming the system isn’t a bad idea if the car has been sitting for awhile. I usually do that if I haven’t started it in a week
They do have a smaller diameter body than factory lifters. I confirmed this by talking to Johnson. The guy who answered the phone, super nice but really hard to talk to.
However, as hard as he was to talk to or get answers out of, he was super knowledgeable and he suggested that I use 2110K lifters from Katech. So I called Katech and confirmed that they order theirs at a different spec to reduce bleed down and with older worn motors this helps keep oil pressure up. Now I’m just waiting for parts to show up.
They do have a smaller diameter body than factory lifters. I confirmed this by talking to Johnson. The guy who answered the phone, super nice but really hard to talk to.
However, as hard as he was to talk to or get answers out of, he was super knowledgeable and he suggested that I use 2110K lifters from Katech. So I called Katech and confirmed that they order theirs at a different spec to reduce bleed down and with older worn motors this helps keep oil pressure up. Now I’m just waiting for parts to show up.
Thats interesting and I wish I had known that when I ordered mine lol. Using 5w30 my idle oil pressure will get in the low 20’s when the oil temp gets high. The 2110Rs caused at least a 5-6psi drop… Next oil change I’m going to use Mobil 1 0w40 since my oil temps stay pretty high due to not having an oil cooler.
Thats interesting and I wish I had known that when I ordered mine lol. Using 5w30 my idle oil pressure will get in the low 20’s when the oil temp gets high. The 2110Rs caused at least a 5-6psi drop… Next oil change I’m going to use Mobil 1 0w40 since my oil temps stay pretty high due to not having an oil cooler.
When I talked to Katech, they said their spec lifters (2110k) that they order from Johnson “can” allow a 5 to 10 psi increase in pressure. They said that at a bare minimum that you should not see any decrease. Katech said they only install their 2110k lifters in all of their builds.
Could it be that the pushrods are just too short? It's fairly simple to check.
I have 2110's. Spec calls for .035 +/-.010 and when I checked I am at .045-.055 which seems to be good if you subscribe to the "add .010 preload to comp for expansion of Alum block" theory. So pushrod a hair too long if anything.
Originally Posted by bwill03z
Thats interesting and I wish I had known that when I ordered mine lol. Using 5w30 my idle oil pressure will get in the low 20’s when the oil temp gets high. The 2110Rs caused at least a 5-6psi drop… Next oil change I’m going to use Mobil 1 0w40 since my oil temps stay pretty high due to not having an oil cooler.
I am not too happy with my oil pressure either. With an OEM air to oil cooler I'd get 26psi at hot 900rpm idle on the street. I suspected it was the cooler causing a pressure drop because of a 15 psi difference between an Autometer gauge at the front of the block pre-cooler/filter vs the OE sender so I upgraded the lines with an improved racing thermostat kit and increased hot idle by 4 PSI when the stat is open (its very close to my autometer reading before it opens). I run 5W40 Rotella synth.
What's the reason for the smaller body? Less chance of eating a lifter?
I recently moved my Accumulator connection to the sender location and dump the 3 qt further downstream (it used to connect at the front of the block by the pump) before I fire it up. Still a little clatter for a sec but not as bad.
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