When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi, I am doing basic maintenance / parts replacements on my suspension, at 108,000 miles. I am noticing that the rubber bushings that were on the lowering bolts, between the bottom of the leaf spring and the "disc" at the bottom of the lowering bolt, have disintegrated and fallen off. So there is now a gap between the bottom of the spring and the "disc". Seems that the spring is OK and that the bolt is still tight in the leaf spring. So I think that the bolt is still keeping the spring suspended up above the control arm. Is this OK, or do I need to get a rubber bushing put back in there like a spacer? I am not looking to lower or modify, just keep it stock and well maintained. I am a little overwhelmed by what I am seeing online. Trying to do the easiest thing. Any help would be much appreciated.
it is common for those to distort and look horrible, are you sure part of it is actually missing? I've had temporary situations where I've inserted a piece of hard plastic between what's left of the adjuster and the control arm, you don't want the steel adjusting screwing digging directly into the aluminum arm. The Spring arm is much longer than the control arm radius, so you have a situation where the springs slides in/out relative to the control arm in motion.
Here are pictures. Do you see the gap between the leaf spring and the black "disc" at the bottom of the lowering bolt? There is still a rubber disc/foot at the end of the bolt that is keeping the spring from coming down on the control arm. Just no bushing between that foot/disc and the leaf spring.
At over 100k miles just call it basic maintenance and replace the bolts with new ones. They are readily available from Corvette retailers. Below is a sample from Corvette Central.
When the "Pad" wears away you are effectively lowering your suspension and the most likely result will be accidently breaking the lower radiator bracket via impact. (ask me how I know)
GD
Last edited by gdmoore01; Aug 9, 2025 at 10:09 AM.
Here are pictures. Do you see the gap between the leaf spring and the black "disc" at the bottom of the lowering bolt? There is still a rubber disc/foot at the end of the bolt that is keeping the spring from coming down on the control arm. Just no bushing between that foot/disc and the leaf spring.
The stock bushing is a stack of steel plates separated by rubber. It's there to conform to the contact pad on the control arm. The bushing itself does not bear against the bottom of the spring. It's normal to have a gap there.
Only if the the ride height were adjusted all the way down would the top of the bushing contact the spring.
It is normal at high miles for the bushing to start coming apart. OEM replacements were never available separately from the leaf spring itself. Corvette Central made a stock reproduction.
Thanks a ton for explaining this. Both posts above very helpful. I'll just change those soon when I do the shocks and have it all apart. Is there a spec or a way to measure how to screw that bolt into the leaf spring? Seems like that matters, and that both sides of the car need to be the same. I don't want it lowered.
Thanks a ton for explaining this. Both posts above very helpful. I'll just change those soon when I do the shocks and have it all apart. Is there a spec or a way to measure how to screw that bolt into the leaf spring? Seems like that matters, and that both sides of the car need to be the same. I don't want it lowered.
Generally people set up the ride height in reference to the distance from the ground to the top of the wheel arches. There are several threads on the subject. Here's one:
You'll want to check it someplace flat and level. It may take more than one round of adjustments. Take it for a spin between adjustments to get everything settled.
Height adjustments will alter corner weighting, but so will things like having a passenger or a half tank of gas. Don't worry about corner weighting for a street car. Get the bodywork the right distance from the ground, with a level-to-slightly-negative rake.
Make a template that you can use to measure 25mm of exposed bolt from the top of the spring to the top of the bolt. (popsicle stick or piece of stiff cardboard will do) This measurement used on all four corners will get you very close to the stock ride height on each corner. You will need to drive the car several times to allow the suspension to settle before making any more adjustments. See attachment for measuring ride height.