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Was riding down the road in a buddies 2012 C6 Z06 about 60ph when he said "what's that" and pointed to the oil pressure.
The gage was pegged and the DIC said 108 psi.
He killed the motor and we rolled to a stop.
We both look under the car and there was no oil nor smoke. Pop the hood and it's normal. Check the oil level, is perfect (60% oil life left on DIC)
Get back in and gage and DIC both read 54 psi but the motor is not running. Engine starts normally and runs good but oil psi is over 100.
We try to get a look at the plug on the sender but can't see it so he drives it home.
He changes oil and filter and psi is now 95 at idle and still 60 with the engine off
He said he did see the pressure go to zero at one point but then back to max again. No warning light just gauge reading.
Before you change the sending unit, reach in to unplug its connector, start the motor, and make sure that problem is not that wire for connector is slightly grounding out somewhere that is causing the higher shown pressure instead.
And for the love of Chist, there is enough room to replace the unit under the front cowling, borrow a small cosmetic make up mirror if need to see under the cowling, and do not cut a hole in the cowling like below instead.
This is just bad to start with, and If I saw this on any car, got to wonder what other hacks where done on repairs as well.
Originally Posted by 4SUMERZ
Although I would never cut the cowl to get access to the oil pressure sender, here is a few pics of someone who did. You can see the top of the sender.
Looks like the sender... however...
I have the Atomic Air intake which does not give me enough room to get behind it. I worked on for two days (borescope camera and uncle Snap On) - just wasnt going to happen.
Its a Lingenfelter Performance Engineering build and after a couple conversations with them it became apparent I had to drop the subframe (thats what I said).
BTW - I dont have the easily removable wiper valance and wouldnt cut up my car like that. But, I seriously considered a hole through the valance and fiberglass that would accomidate an extention and then load the socket from the bottom. Its likely I would need two (RH rear intake bolt and LH rear intake bold and PSI sender) because the clearance between the Atomic Intake and the sender was not enough for even a thin wall socket. The intake had to come off. My son could 3D print some custom plugs to fill the holes.
Dropping the subframe wasnt that bad (Lower shock mounts disconnected, disconnect two front sway bar mounts (leave attached to lower A arms) and jack both sides. Loosen 4 large bolts about half way and the subframe will ride down with them.. 1/2 in or so on the back bolts (front came down 1/4 in) and I had almost enough room.
I removed the intake (another thread) and could easily get to the sensor. Im waiting on my remote kit (150 bucks from DPE Engineering) and should be fixed.
I did power it up with the new sensor plugged in - 0 PSI. Oil PSI sender
This is from another thread (credit to Undy).
Here are the part numbers if you want to make your own remote mount! I havent checked them but they look like they should work.
1 ea 105-2268 ADAPT 1/8"NPT TO M16X1.5 11.99 1 ea 555-100121 1/8"NPT TO #4 FLARE 45° 6.99 1 ea 555-635053 HOSE 14"-4AN STRT X STRT 10.99 1 ea 555-100221 #6 FEMALE #4 MALE REDUCER 6.99 1 ea 361-9894DBJ 16MMX1.5 -6 8.99
You also have to extend the wiring harness (soldering preferable) which takes about 15 minutes. Everyone who removes their intake should do this mod.
I appreciate the help on this and going together is going to be a slow process but Ill post when its done.
Got to ask, but whats up with intake ports/seal marking from them, not matching head ports? Hence lot of solid area under the head ports that the bottom of the intake O ring was sealing against, so really looks like major miss match of larger intake ports, to head ports..
Got to ask, but whats up with intake ports/seal marking from them, not matching head ports? Hence lot of solid area under the head ports that the bottom of the intake O ring was sealing against, so really looks like major miss match of larger intake ports, to head ports..
Thanks everyone..
Replaced the pressure sender on the back of the motor and it fixed the issue.
I went ahead and made an adapter to relocate the sender and oil pressure works good.
High Oil Pressure
