Mighty Mouse catch can ?
Also, would it be ok to run the fresh air for the dry sump tank to the dirty side of the can so to catch any oil that could come through?
Also, would it be ok to run the fresh air for the dry sump tank to the dirty side of the can so to catch any oil that could come through?
lets use educational terms instead if you don't mind,
Side A we can call as "wot side" or "fresh air vent side"
Side B we can say is "intake manifold suction side" or "idle/cruise side"
Side A functions as a vent for idle/cruise and a PCV system for wot which has its pressure set to the air filter pressure drop, which should be set to 0.8" to 1.5"Hg something like that.
Side B functions as a suction on the crankcase for idle/cruise, it will completely shut closed at WOT on a forced induction vehicle because of check-valve action which should always be present.
Both sides can have restrictors for different reasons. Side A sometimes has a restrictor from OEM or even a solenoid (BMW) which restricts air entering the crankcase during idle/cruise to increase the crankcase vacuum. Many people do not take the time to do this but it will optimize the blow-by recovery and engine oil quality over high mileage if done correctly 1.5"Hg near that at idle/cruise.
Side B intake manifold suction side always has a restrictor or pcv valve to limit flow rate throughput of crankcase. The restriction of Side B needs to match the production of blow-by and windage of an engine which varies by mileage and build, so this restrictor again is a custom setting which requires optimization based on engine/type. More mileage/blow-by = more flow needed = less restricting and more catch-can efforts will be needed to keep oil out of the intake system while protecting engine oil quality. A mighty mouse catch can would be a great way to prevent intake suction from pulling oil however they cannot tell you or help you measure and set the crankcase pressure correctly to take advantage of the catch can- that part is up to you to do yourself. Everyone must do themselves. If the catch can companies provided this information nobody would read the instructions or buy the can, it isn't their fault. They are just giving you the tools necessary its your job to understand crankcase pressure and restrictor settings to optimize flow rate to keep oil out of the intake system. High crankcase pressure causes high oil density and large radius density droplets forming which sucked up easily into the intake system. The optimal wet sump crankcase pressure setting is around 1.5"Hg at all times. Dry sump may run a bit more vacuum, depending on the application. Factory dry sump engines typically found often have piston rings which function well with a slight crankcase vacuum as 1.5" to 3"Hg, however aftermarket low tension piston oil control rings are available and may be used with dry sump/vacuum pump engines kept as low vacuum at 15"Hg or more sometimes to reduce parasitic friction of piston ring interface. The PCV system is quite complex...
In any case now I will be direct to answer your question
Since the oil dry sump tank is continuous with air filter tract, it will additionally available to suit the pressure drop for crankcase (they are connected at dry sump oil tank, air filter and crankcase) This is fresh air incoming for idle/cruise and crankcase PCV action for wide open throttle due to air filter pressure drop scalar component
My way
The way I generally set forced induction engines for daily drivers and street/strip is
Before anything, A pressure test must be done for intake system. If you need video of forced induction pressure test I can provide it.
First, Side A I will measure the crankcase pressure using a 1-bar map sensor and multi meter/battery pack at wide open throttle and adjust air filter pressure drop accordingly first
If you'd like a video I can show you how to do this on forced induction car
Second, measure the crankcase pressure at idle/cruise using the same sensor while occasionally stopping to adjust crankcase flow at the pcv valve and air filter connection restrictor. I wil lusually start with a RB25 size restrictor orifice (the PCV valve side A restrictor for a factory nissan rb25 skyline engine is about 10 or 12mm diameter circle I think) And usually a V8 engine I will expect to need at least 2x 1995 toyota supra twin turbo pcv valves in parallel (like resistors on a circuit) to support sufficient crankcase flow rate.
Finally re-check wot pressure drop once restrictors and pcv valves are in place.
Now the crankcase should have about 1"Hg at all times and pushing 1 to 3"Hg at wide open throttle in boost.
This is optimized crankcase settings with or without a catch can. If adding catch can it may be placed only on the intake manifold suction side(pcv valve side B) to address high idle/cruise crankcase flow rate issues due to excessive blow-by or high mileage or perhaps loose high output forged engines which are still warming up or simply too much piston/wall ringgap etc...










