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I’m having an issue with no fuel. I parked my car, ran fine prior to parking and now won’t start.
I’ve checked relays good. Swapped relays. Good. Checked fuses. Good. Checked for spark. Good. Checked for fuel at the fuel rail valve. Bad, no fuel.
I read another forum that the fuse box in the engine bay has a common issue of a pin burning out or Sometimes getting loose. I removed and inspected. No burn signs. Everything looks fine.
I remove the rear passenger tire. Under the wheel well there’s a harness. Not 100% sure how to diagnose it but I put a test light to the gray pin. It lights up pulsing when I crank the engine. Does that mean I have power going to the pump? Or should I check the other pins? Does anyone have a diagram? I really don’t want to drop the fuel tank as I hear it’s a pain but if I have to than so be it.
First what year is the car ??…the driver side rear behind the wheel house panel is where there is a connector to check for pump power…I don’t know how much electrical experience you have so I don’t know how deep I can help you with this…swap the fuel pump relay with the horn and see what happens…we can check the 4 pin relay…good you have a test light…nothing should be pulsing…when you turn the ignition on the fuel pump will energize for 2 seconds and shut off…dropping the fuel pump is the LAST thing you should be doing…did you check for fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge ??
Sorry. It’s a 2006. I have swapped the relay with the horn relay. No change. I did not check the fuel pressure rail for pressure as I don’t hear the pump priming. I’m assuming it would have 0 pressure. I pressed on the valve and no fuel came out. Just some drops. Sorry about the rear harness yes I tested with test light. The gray pin. My mistake is does not pulse. It lights up for 2 sec and turns off. Lights up when I crank the engine.
Last member I helped with this had a burned pin on C184 which is outboard of the battery…first thing is to check the relay with the test light…pin 30 is hot at all times…if you jumper 30 and 87 the pump should come on and stay on…if that is good we will check the control side…with test light to ground and when you hold the bottom of the starter button down for 5 seconds with foot off the brake the light will illuminate for 2 seconds and go out…now connect test light to battery positive and test light will illuminate when connected to pin 87…light illuminates because the test light is finding a ground through the fuel pump windings to ground…to check AT THE PUMP at connector X459 you MUST use a headlight bulb equivalent to the amperage the pump draws which on my 08 is about 8 amps…I use a high beam bulb with a pigtail…you will need this to see if there is resistance between the relay and X459…checking for 12 volts or with a test light which only draws maybe 100 milliamps will illuminate but there is to much resistance to light a 5 amp bulb…if you don’t do this you WILL misdiagnosis this so you may be pulling the pump out for nothing…that’s up to you…if you have 10 foot test leads you can “voltage drop” the positive and negative side of the circuit from the battery down to X459 with the headlight bulb…the bulb is a substitute for the pump…with no current flow there will be no voltage drop…what I drew is if you are standing over the fender…if your test light tip is thick do NOT shove it into the relay or you will cause more problems…you can use a paper clip bent into a “U” to jumper 30 and 87.
This is the burned pin on X184 that a member had with an inop pump…there is another connector near the EVAP vent valve (x430)…this is the high beam bulb I use to check the pump…you can connect it between the gray power wire and ground but you can jumper 30 and 87 to check.
Okay. I’ll jimmy rig a headlight like you’ve said and test it that way. Also I did jump pin 30 and 87 and nothing happens. I can see a tiny spark in the fuse box pin whole when I jump it but nothing happens. Fuel pump doesn’t activate or prime.
Ok, so we know the LOAD side of the pump is bad…I’d still check all 4 terminals anyway…we will make sure the CONTROL side is good…this is what my pump draws 8.58 amps…good video below.
Okay so when I jumped 30 and 87 since I have the rear driver tire currently removed I can hear a clicking from the fuel pump/tank area. Almost sounds like a relay clicking. It’s pretty loud click
Followed this thread for a bit in the past couple months as I had crank/no start as well. By using all of these data points and checking out possible faults down stream from the pump, everything I saw pointed to the pump itself. I have a 2007 C6 base. Took it to a shop and they also verified it was the pump. However, I did cut down on shop diagnosis by sharing what I did to lead me to the failed pump conclusion. The shop replaced my pump at a cost of $2420 which included 10 hrs labor. Got it back today and it runs like new again. I asked for the old pump but the tech said it fell apart during removal and he had to clean out all the debris before installing the new one. So I guess it was definitely toast.
Crank No start Fuel Pump
