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I have a 2006 c6 z06 when In first gear going down the street my car starts bucking back and fourth are these normal for these cars? Or is this an issue!? I am also getting a random misfire code every once in a while , could this be related? Injectors ,plugs , wires and coils have all been changed out
From reading your past posts you have been dealing with this for quite a while…you haven’t taken the car to a professional diagnostian yet ??…we can’t diagnose something like this for you over the internet…just too many variables !!
From reading your past posts you have been dealing with this for quite a while…you haven’t taken the car to a professional diagnostian yet ??…we can’t diagnose something like this for you over the internet…just too many variables !!
Just taking a snapshot of this tells me nothing...is he car at idle or key on ??...upstream O's at idle should oscillate between 200-800Mv's...downstream O2's remain fairly constant at 600-800Mv's...fuel trims should not exceed plus or minus 10%....closer to zero the better...watch the video a friend of mine did a few years ago...great info !!
I also have a 2006 Z06. Owned it for about 5 years. It has always bucked at low speeds, but has improved considerably due to ongoing improvements during my ownership. Nevertheless, even though the bucking isn't too bad now, I don't think it is normal. I suspect it may be due to an aftermarket camshaft. The previous owner told me that it has the OE camshaft, but honestly, I don't think he knew for certain. I am going to measure the camshaft lift this spring. That will tell me if it is an aftermarket camshaft or not. However, even if it is aftermarket, I may just stick with it because I enjoy the performance of this car the way it is now, and may not be willing to give that up in order to eliminate what little bucking remains. Do you know if you have the OE camshaft or not?
I was thinking the same thing, not sure if it has an aftermarket cam , if it is its probably a stage 1 , I will be doing boltons the beginning of next year , stage 2 cam headers and manifold and all that good stuff so I’ll see what the shop says and hope they can tell me what’s causing misfire, it may just be the current tune on the car isn’t good
Originally Posted by ClothSeats
I also have a 2006 Z06. Owned it for about 5 years. It has always bucked at low speeds, but has improved considerably due to ongoing improvements during my ownership. Nevertheless, even though the bucking isn't too bad now, I don't think it is normal. I suspect it may be due to an aftermarket camshaft. The previous owner told me that it has the OE camshaft, but honestly, I don't think he knew for certain. I am going to measure the camshaft lift this spring. That will tell me if it is an aftermarket camshaft or not. However, even if it is aftermarket, I may just stick with it because I enjoy the performance of this car the way it is now, and may not be willing to give that up in order to eliminate what little bucking remains. Do you know if you have the OE camshaft or not?
I also have a 2006 Z06. Owned it for about 5 years. It has always bucked at low speeds, but has improved considerably due to ongoing improvements during my ownership. Nevertheless, even though the bucking isn't too bad now, I don't think it is normal. I suspect it may be due to an aftermarket camshaft. The previous owner told me that it has the OE camshaft, but honestly, I don't think he knew for certain. I am going to measure the camshaft lift this spring. That will tell me if it is an aftermarket camshaft or not. However, even if it is aftermarket, I may just stick with it because I enjoy the performance of this car the way it is now, and may not be willing to give that up in order to eliminate what little bucking remains. Do you know if you have the OE camshaft or not?
If it is an aftermarket cam, its not tune properly. 90% of tuner do not have the experience to tune driveabilt at low rpms. They dont waste time on this because it takes to long to dial in. Many people have issues after a cam. 100% of the time the tuner blames the cam cant be tuned. Which is false. WOT is a different story. That's the easy one to dial in. Ive seen many people come on a tuning sites with this problem. With the help of the forum majority of them get fixed or way better behavior. It involves many different parameter to adjust that there not familiar with. If they had to dial in every cammed car, your tune would cost 1000's of dollars on the time they have to spend. So they get it livable and convince the customer thats part of having a cammed car. JMI.
Im just saying but i dont think this is the op's issue im just addressing ur comment thats all.
Last edited by helga203; Nov 26, 2025 at 03:20 PM.
How many months does the OEM spend on getting the tune right with the mild stock cam... Compare this with the few hours the local "tuner" spends with a one off setup and aftermarket monster cam... Low speed bucking is probably the minimum you should expect.
Good info. I just went from stock cam & heads to TSP stage 3.2 & PRC 285cc heads in my C6 Z06 & now have bucking at low RPM, first gear trying to drive slow past the neighbours horses & also cruising in 6th (have to use 5th at speed limit!) Maybe I need to go back to the tuner?
Good info. I just went from stock cam & heads to TSP stage 3.2 & PRC 285cc heads in my C6 Z06 & now have bucking at low RPM, first gear trying to drive slow past the neighbours horses & also cruising in 6th (have to use 5th at speed limit!) Maybe I need to go back to the tuner?
Yup, When changed to a bigger cam its hitting different areas of the map and maf and other parameters that need to be adjusted to compensate the difference vacuum and A/F ratio. Thats where a good tuner knows what areas and how much to change to get him in the ballpark then quiwk from there. Your situation is 100% tune. YOUR TUNER SHOULD HAVE KNOWN THIS. They probably didn't even take it out for a drive.
If he's not familiar with these parmatures he will blame it on a mechanical issues and send you on your way. If he's willing to help, make sure he doesnt charge you more for their laziness not to finish the tuning. It take much more time that they dont make money on. WOT is easy and doesn't not take a lot of time to do. Good tuners could get WOT tune within a few WOT dyno runs will within an 1/2hrs 1hr tops. Drivability can take hrs. Your have cold hot drivably tuning so if there is a cold start problem it might take days to figure out because it has to sit overnight. To get one chance on startup. Dont know how your cold startup and drivability is. But its ouviuo you have a hot drivability issue. JMI i might be wrong.
Yup, When changed to a bigger cam its hitting different areas of the map and maf and other parameters that need to be adjusted to compensate the difference vacuum and A/F ratio. Thats where a good tuner knows what areas and how much to change to get him in the ballpark then quiwk from there. Your situation is 100% tune. YOUR TUNER SHOULD HAVE KNOWN THIS. They probably didn't even take it out for a drive.
If he's not familiar with these parmatures he will blame it on a mechanical issues and send you on your way. If he's willing to help, make sure he doesnt charge you more for their laziness not to finish the tuning. It take much more time that they dont make money on. WOT is easy and doesn't not take a lot of time to do. Good tuners could get WOT tune within a few WOT dyno runs will within an 1/2hrs 1hr tops. Drivability can take hrs. Your have cold hot drivably tuning so if there is a cold start problem it might take days to figure out because it has to sit overnight. To get one chance on startup. Dont know how your cold startup and drivability is. But its ouviuo you have a hot drivability issue. JMI i might be wrong.
Ha I am hearing you. The tuner said he took it for a drive & the bucking was due to big cam & I should change the diff ratio to fix it!