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I've not driven my 2013 427 Vette for 8 months or more. It's hooked up to a trickle charger. Yesterday, I was intending to brush off the dust. I tried using the FOB, but it wouldn't work, so I'll be using the Key. With that said, I noticed that the clutch is on the floor! A review of the discussions posted here highlights a problem associated with C6 Corvettes, which was addressed in Recall Notice Bulletin No 14717, dated September 2015. Unfortunately, the coverage expired after 10 years! https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...23488-9999.pdf
Here's the deal - 13,000 miles, rarely driven. No fluids have been added/used since I purchased it about a year ago. The clutch obviously went down by itself at some point in time.
Clearly, there is no cost coverage from GM, Obviously, I need to have it checked out and repaired. I am perplexed by the strangeness of this event. Does it sound like a failure, possibly including the Clutch Master Cylinder as outlined in the Recall Notice?
I've not driven my 2013 427 Vette for 8 months or more. It's hooked up to a trickle charger. Yesterday, I was intending to brush off the dust. I tried using the FOB, but it wouldn't work, so I'll be using the Key. With that said, I noticed that the clutch is on the floor! A review of the discussions posted here highlights a problem associated with C6 Corvettes, which was addressed in Recall Notice Bulletin No 14717, dated September 2015. Unfortunately, the coverage expired after 10 years! https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...23488-9999.pdf
Here's the deal - 13,000 miles, rarely driven. No fluids have been added/used since I purchased it about a year ago. The clutch obviously went down by itself at some point in time.
Clearly, there is no cost coverage from GM, Obviously, I need to have it checked out and repaired. I am perplexed by the strangeness of this event. Does it sound like a failure, possibly including the Clutch Master Cylinder as outlined in the Recall Notice?
Verification or insight will be appreciated.
99% likely it's just a failed master cylinder.
It's a relatively cheap and easy fix. If you have any mechanical ability, you can change the master yourself in about an hour.
You can get access to the master through a removable panel in the fender well on the drivers side after removing the wheel. Unclip the push rod from the clutch pedal and unbolt the master from the firewall. You then unclip and disconnect the master line to the slave. Installation is the reverse. Hardest part is getting the master clutch line clipped into the slave line. Both lines have check valves in them so they don't leak so it takes a good bit of force for them to clip back together. Hardest thing is getting in a position to get enough leverage but it is doable. I did the replacement on my car a few years ago in about an hour.
So, should I replace with OEM or look at other options. Seems strange that this happened but asking for it to happen again by using the same part seems foolish! If other options, any recommendations?
So, should I replace with OEM or look at other options. Seems strange that this happened but asking for it to happen again by using the same part seems foolish! If other options, any recommendations?
Replace with OEM. There is an updated master cylinder that fixes this problem. The updated part has a black reservoir. The older part that is prone to failure has a white/clear reservoir.
If you want to upgrade from OEM the Tick master kit has a 7/8 ID vs stock 3/4 which shortens the engagement travel slightly and you'll be able to adjust the engagement position in the travel. It is more work to install than the OEM though. The OEM black res is fine as others mention also.
No disrespect, DO NOT GO WITH TICK. Waste of money, only if you want your left leg to be twice the size of your right then go for it. Im 1000hp and OEM been working just fine for 30k mile after i replaced my tick garage it started to leak. That was the best thing that happen to me. Got my left leg back to normal size and drives like stock.
No disrespect, DO NOT GO WITH TICK. Waste of money, only if you want your left leg to be twice the size of your right then go for it. Im 1000hp and OEM been working just fine for 30k mile after i replaced my tick garage it started to leak. That was the best thing that happen to me. Got my left leg back to normal size and drives like stock.
I agree the increased bore Dia. will increase pedal effort
When I replaced mine I swapped the white reservoir from the original over to the new one. I did use the new Cap which says DOT 4.
Reason being, it's hard to tell if you're clutch fluid is dirty when its in a black reservoir
When I replaced mine I swapped the white reservoir from the original over to the new one. I did use the new Cap which says DOT 4.
Reason being, it's hard to tell if you're clutch fluid is dirty when its in a black reservoir
I did the same. I did retain the original for resale purposes to prove replacement.
Replace with OEM. There is an updated master cylinder that fixes this problem. The updated part has a black reservoir. The older part that is prone to failure has a white/clear reservoir.
Got it! Any input relating to the Clutch fluid e.g. GM DOT‑4 Brake & Clutch Fluid or other brands - seems that DOT-4 upgrades the fluid from also recommended DOT 3?
Last edited by relentlessly; Jan 1, 2026 at 11:52 AM.
Prestone DOT4, readily available and cheap. When you go to install the new MC, install the retainer clip into the female end before you plug the male end in. Much easier than trying to do it after the fact.
Last edited by 99Hawk262; Jan 2, 2026 at 02:27 PM.
It's a relatively cheap and easy fix. If you have any mechanical ability, you can change the master yourself in about an hour.
You can get access to the master through a removable panel in the fender well on the drivers side after removing the wheel. Unclip the push rod from the clutch pedal and unbolt the master from the firewall. You then unclip and disconnect the master line to the slave. Installation is the reverse. Hardest part is getting the master clutch line clipped into the slave line. Both lines have check valves in them so they don't leak so it takes a good bit of force for them to clip back together. Hardest thing is getting in a position to get enough leverage but it is doable. I did the replacement on my car a few years ago in about an hour.
Just order the part from RockAuto.
Purchased at RockAuto (19432063) but no reservoir was attached or included. A post here indicates that the white one on the unit installed now can be used with the new part. Is that correct?