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Power steering hose replacement

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Old Mar 31, 2026 | 12:24 AM
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Scott S
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From: Camarillo CA
Default Power steering hose replacement

2006 base car. My power steering hose was leaking badly, so here are my notes on my adventure replacing them. I ended up replacing the pump with a rebuilt one from O’reilley’s.

Everything I read and watched said this job is a major PIA. I struggled for many hours before I finally figured out the easy way which I believe is also the method in the factory manual. The easy way to do this job is to just pull the brake module in front of the power steering pump. Once the brake module is out of the way you employ your trusty HF pulley puller to remove the power steering pump pulley. Then you have easy access to the high pressure hose connection and the pump attach bolts.

The first step is to drain the radiator, brake fluid reservoir and power steering reservoir. I use a big syringe from amazon and some plastic tubing. You have to remove the upper radiator hose and it will dump right onto the big electrical connector on the brake booster if you don’t drain it.

The early C6’s had a short high pressure hose which is prone to cracking. I assumed mine was cracked, but I could not find a crack in mine. I believe my leak was the low pressure hose. The replacement high pressure hose is the later C6 hose and it routes in front of the rack and then up to the pump. I just used heavy duty zip ties to secure it, but others have made a bracket.

I ended up having to cut my high pressure line near the rack connection with a hacksaw since the nut was on way too tight. I rounded it off with a flare nut crows foot. After I cut the line I was able to break it loose with a six point socket and a breaker bar. It was ridiculously tight. The moral of the story is that the seal is created by the O ring and the nut is just there to hold it in place so just snug it up enough so it doesn’t come loose. The line narrows at the end so that caught all of the debris from cutting (I hope) and I cleaned the rack side with q tips. I wasn’t happy about this method but there was no other way that nut was coming loose.

Be sure to install the o ring on the ends of the lines before you install them. And be sure to reinstall the pump pulley before you put the brake booster back in! Ask me how I know….

Now you need to bleed the brakes and the brake module. I used my Chinese Tech 2 for this and a pressure adapter for the brake reservoir which lets you just hook an air compressor to the reservoir and pressurize it for bleeding. 20 psi, not full pressure! The Tech 2 walks you through the bleed process to bleed the module and the brakes. Worked great, just refill the brake fluid after each wheel.

Anyhow, hope this helps the next guy….
Cheers,
Scott

https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...nt=10529618309
https://www.vxdas.com/products/tech-2-scanner-for-gm

Easy to pull the pulley now.
Easy to pull the pulley now.

I also replaced the plastic T on the coolant lines under the MAF here since the plastic one broke.  They’re all going to break.   I used a brass one from Amazon.  3/8x3/8x1/4
I also replaced the plastic T on the coolant lines under the MAF here since the plastic one broke. They’re all going to break. I used a brass one from Amazon. 3/8x3/8x1/4


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