When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2010 Grand Sport with dry sump and a Magnuson Heartbeat blower. Installing a Mighty Mouse "C6 z06/zr1 Mild" + "Recirculating top for gen5+5". I bought this catch can last year. Just now getting around to installing it. I don't recall how or why I ended up getting this exact setup other than his direct recommendation. The PCV hose between the valley plate and blower were leaking and there was a small pool of oil sitting in the blower--unimportant... Anyways:
I've attached a professionally drawn illustration of the current PCV routing of this car (*as purchased/found*). Was this done properly and how do I implement the MM catch can (included in illustration) properly?
I have the MM instructions but his instructions include two ports: rerouting valley plate to the can (enter) and the other port (exit, included in red) to the intake manifold (snout port in my case I presume?). Can someone catch me up to speed on how to properly set this up in my case. I can contact him if needed but the forums are always a good place to go, especially for novices like me to learn. This is not a bash on his instructions, rather incompetency on my end. For all I know he has the exact illustration I need and I am just not finding it on his site (he does include lots of illustrations for various systems).
The catch can should be between the valley plate and the intake port (behind throttle plate). There may be some oil that does come through the VC to TB but it should be less than through the other route. You will probably have a check valve on the line between the VP and TB - make sure you install it correctly.
Ahrmike is correct. Between the valley port and the port on the blower snout. This is how I have my MM catch can routed on my GS with Edelbrock Eforce. I then used MM's truck brake booster mount to mount it on the driver's side. Had to drill a couple of new holes in the mount to get it positioned to it didn't rub on anything but works great.
the mild kit instructions spec the can between the valley and the intake manifold
the instructions do not say anything about the air intake or dry sump lines, so do not change anything there
the recirculation top kit spec the exit go outboard of the engine bay or air intake
Why would the person who originally installed this blower cap off the driver side valve cover port? I scanned through the Magnuson installation pdf and did not see anything about capping that off (I could be wrong). Do I need to re-plumb that back in (I'd have to buy more hose) or can I leave it be? I've never had a dry sump setup or a supercharger on a vehicle before and don't want to have issues later this Spring when I go to throw it on the dyno after finishing my winter upgrades and have PCV issues off the bat.
Also a little confused on running this gen 5 reroute cap over a filter but I just bought what was recommended for a mild setup/occasional track use (again, nothing against MMS). Not a big deal, I don't even know if I'll run a hose for it anywhere. As long as you empty the can regularly that top mount reroute port is sort of unnecessary from my understanding outside of catastrophic failure? I hear that it was requested by some customers a decade ago. Maybe I am still missing part of the picture on that? Less important; just like to learn when I can.
Thanks all
Why would the person who originally installed this blower cap off the driver side valve cover port? I scanned through the Magnuson installation pdf and did not see anything about capping that off (I could be wrong). Do I need to re-plumb that back in (I'd have to buy more hose) or can I leave it be? I've never had a dry sump setup or a supercharger on a vehicle before and don't want to have issues later this Spring when I go to throw it on the dyno after finishing my winter upgrades and have PCV issues off the bat.
Also a little confused on running this gen 5 reroute cap over a filter but I just bought what was recommended for a mild setup/occasional track use (again, nothing against MMS). Not a big deal, I don't even know if I'll run a hose for it anywhere. As long as you empty the can regularly that top mount reroute port is sort of unnecessary from my understanding outside of catastrophic failure? I hear that it was requested by some customers a decade ago. Maybe I am still missing part of the picture on that? Less important; just like to learn when I can.
Thanks all
My recommendation is to read the maggie install kit, follow the vac line instructions, then add the MM catch can between the valley cover and intake mani. I had to do the same thing for my A&A setup. Mine is technically NOT correct per the drawings since the "fresh air" feed is pre-MAF because of the way the A&A is set up. The Maggie setup should be able to install the fresh air inlet post MAF since PDs sit right on top and draw through the MAF, vs the A&A setup which pushes air through the MAF (pressurized downstream).
The valve covers SHOULD be pulling from the same air reservoir (valve covers, engine is all connected - which is why oil pumped up to the rockers and valves can drain back to the crankcase) so having one capped and pulling through the other should not be a big deal, but I'd personally just keep it drawing through both. I believe the driver side port has a metering orifice and the passenger side does not, so in reality it may not make a huge difference.
BTW, the VTA on the MM cans are one-way valved so it can't draw air in (unmetered) and will only open when the crankcase starts getting pressurized. i think MM sells can modifications that could be fully open or fully closed too so YMMV based on the can you have.
Also, you got THE guy who builds those catch cans to answer so follow his instructions!
if you have the direct mount breather top, on any catch can, there is no brand discrimination;
and if you let the can overflow
(lack of maintenance, unable to drain in time because still on-track, or both)
the direct vent, as the can overflows, will blow oil onto your engine at the worst possible time
-this can and has burned cars down
that is why we have the top option
road course single session is more wide open time than street / strip cars see in a year
if you are not sure how our stuff works. there is no need to guess, or assume
you don't even have to ask the internet, you can just ask us.
you can also see that after we invented this, our 'competition' has released knock offs of our recirculation top for road course apps.
if you have the direct mount breather top, on any catch can, there is no brand discrimination;
and if you let the can overflow
(lack of maintenance, unable to drain in time because still on-track, or both)
the direct vent, as the can overflows, will blow oil onto your engine at the worst possible time
-this can and has burned cars down
that is why we have the top option
road course single session is more wide open time than street / strip cars see in a year
if you are not sure how our stuff works. there is no need to guess, or assume
you don't even have to ask the internet, you can just ask us.
you can also see that after we invented this, our 'competition' has released knock offs of our recirculation top for road course apps.
David, I've leaned heavily on your folk's install manuals because the flow diagrams you have are easy to follow and understand with some thought so thanks for that. I always ran EE cans because I found those first and I wanted a clean side sep. BUT, I finally finished an engine build with boost so I recently bought one of your cans! Anyway, wanted to send some thanks your way and let me know if I am understanding the PCV system wrong - it initially sounds like black magic until you really dissect what each port is connected to and what it's trying to accomplish.
PCV Routing / Catch Can Install
