When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Every once in a while my doors won't open. The window indexes, but the door won't open, I have to go in the trunk. It's both doors. I tried cleaning the contacts in the touch pads, and the car battery is new. I'm thinking the fact that the windows index mean it's getting a signal. So I would think actuator, but it's both doors when it doesn't work, and they both work when they do. So I'm kind of confused and looking for advice. Thanks
Yes, this is an odd one...I see you are a mechanic so you should have access to a factory level scan tool...I would check the inputs to each door to see where your problem may be...any DTC's ??
I went to hook up my scanner and the door wouldn't open, had to go through the trunk again. Did an all module scan and found some historic codes. I deleted them, we'll see if they come back. After closing the door it works fine again. Here's the codes I found:
drivers door module:
B1420- control module voltage
U1017- lost comms with ecm
U1153- lost comms with hvac control module
drivers door switch:
B1327- supply voltage circuit low voltage
I had issues with mine recently, tried cleaning up the pads, switched driver and passenger side. Ordered a new door actuator and getting it put in on Monday and hopefully it will work again.
I recommend charging battery.
Or if over 3 years old R&R battery.
I know when my battery is charged doors open great, when battery is low from heat soaked stop and go multiple engine start/stop cycles my doors have had
issues.
i had this issue on and off for a while now. i finally got around to cleaning the pads with 1600 grit sand paper and crc electronic cleaner and i also bent up the 4 metal tines. now both my doors open as soon as i touch the pads.
I cleaned the pads, I did not clean grounds. Do you know where the ground points are for them?
By looking at your DTC's you probably don't have a ground issue...you have some communication as well as low voltage ones...you said you are not a mechanic so I'm 99.99% sure you will not be able to diagnose this yourself especially if the extent of your abilities is just cleaning grounds and not testing...seek out an auto electric shop in your area...ground for DDM is G201.
I would say my abilities are above just cleaning grounds and not testing, but no, I'm not an electronic expert. However, I do work with some electronic techs that I've learned a fair bit from. And no I don't have a high end scan tool, but I do have a multimeter I'm willing to use.
I haven't really done anything with it because it's been working, and it's very hard to find intermittent problems when they're currently working.
Ok well if it's intermittent it will be difficult to diagnose...now you work with "electronic" techs but do they have any automotive "electrical" knowledge ??...for me these are 2 different areas of knowledge...if you know the difference between inputs and outputs this will make diagnosing easy and it helps to have a factory level scan tool...an "input" is when you attempt to open the door with the door pad...it is a command...your fingers are the input...the output is whatever module that is attempting to move an actuator or something else and these outputs can be commanded with the scan tool also...below is my scan tool looking at RCDLR data showing my driver door exterior switch input when I open the door...it goes from inactive to active...if the input is good then you need to look at the output...wiring or maybe door actuator...unfortunately I can walk you through every step trying to diagnose this with a DMM.
You're absolutely right, the stuff I work on is different, but I prefer to fix my own stuff whenever possible. That looks like it would be a useful tool to have. I have a friend that has a scan tool that I think might do that kind of stuff. I can't remember what model, but it's an autel tablet type scanner. I was quite impressed with it when he was showing it to me a couple years ago, and I know we were able to turn on the hvac afterblow in my car. If it stays acting up again maybe I'll see if I can borrow it.
I was using an Autel scan tool and it's the MS906...it is an aftermarket factory level bidirectional scan tool...you can get a good Autel for $500.00 these days.
Intermittent door issues
