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I have an 07 Z06
Car has electrical issues. Yesterday my sister went to start it and it it gave her issues, she got it started and it locked herself in. Told her to pull the manual switch and she got out. I went to leave and the car wouldn’t start. Electronics wouldn’t turn on. Waited a few minutes and the electronics turned on but no crank.
After I came back from church is started right up.
I put a new battery in today and I went to return the core and the doors are locked again.
the fob does nothing, the manual key doesn’t release the trunk. Nothing.
what’s the issue?
We can't tell you what the issue is...you have to do the testing...if you have no electrical diagnostic experience and some tooling like a DMM and test light then take your car to an auto electric shop in your area...for any electrical issue you always start with the battery and go from there...have you changed the FOB battery...did you try starting the car with the FOB in the glovebox "slot" ??...do you have ignition function ??...accessory and ignition ON works ??
We can't tell you what the issue is...you have to do the testing...if you have no electrical diagnostic experience and some tooling like a DMM and test light then take your car to an auto electric shop in your area...for any electrical issue you always start with the battery and go from there...have you changed the FOB battery...did you try starting the car with the FOB in the glovebox "slot" ??...do you have ignition function ??...accessory and ignition ON works ??
I can’t get in the car. Battery is brand new, key fob is brand new. Car has always started, when no fobs comes on, throw it in the slot and it’ll always start.
Have you done any mods to the car since this all started like LED interior lights or anything that plugs into the car like a cell phone charger ??...there is a TSB that addresses a no start unless the FOB is placed in the glovebox...read the 1st and last long paragraphs.
Have you done any mods to the car since this all started like LED interior lights or anything that plugs into the car like a cell phone charger ??...there is a TSB that addresses a no start unless the FOB is placed in the glovebox...read the 1st and last long paragraphs.
yes it always starts in the slot in the glovebox. I read with my code scanner and there’s every code I’ve ever seen. Lots of class 2, lots of communication, lots of delays and loops.
It has led lights but it’s been like that before I got it and had no issues
Well I have to know exactly what codes you are seeing to help...are they current or history ??
They are current codes. Sometimes the scanner didnt pick it up because it would lose connection with the instrument panel as you will see below in some of the codes, but I was able to get them 1 time. U0073 - Control module communication bus off
LOL !!...don't think these DTC's are current !!...not ALL of these...are you using an Innova or Zurich scan tool ??...I'd erase all of these and see what comes back during the next ignition cycle !!
LOL !!...don't think these DTC's are current !!...not ALL of these...are you using an Innova or Zurich scan tool ??...I'd erase all of these and see what comes back during the next ignition cycle !!
snap on. I cleared it 3 times and this came on the 4th time
Well if ALL these DTC's came back after clearing them a few times you do have a lot of U codes ??...do you know how to diagnose a communication issue ??...what Snap On scanner you using ??...I have never seen these many DTC's come right back after clearing them...maybe an auto electric shop should be in your future...999 out of a 1000 repair shops and dealerships wouldn't even know where to begin diagnosing a comm issue !!...I see in your profile you are a mechanic...my saying is "not all mechanics are diagnosticians but all diagnosticians are mechanics".
Well if ALL these DTC's came back after clearing them a few times you do have a lot of U codes ??...do you know how to diagnose a communication issue ??...what Snap On scanner you using ??...I have never seen these many DTC's come right back after clearing them...maybe an auto electric shop should be in your future...999 out of a 1000 repair shops and dealerships wouldn't even know where to begin diagnosing a comm issue !!...I see in your profile you are a mechanic...my saying is "not all mechanics are diagnosticians but all diagnosticians are mechanics".
snap on triton d-10, wiring, grounds and a short circuit would be my start
One of my scan tools is the Verus Pro...do you have a parasitic drain ??...if not it's not a "short circuit" nor is it a ground issue either...as mentioned do you know how to diagnose a comm issue...that is where you should start based on what modules you can communicate with with all of the U codes.
One of my scan tools is the Verus Pro...do you have a parasitic drain ??...if not it's not a "short circuit" nor is it a ground issue either...as mentioned do you know how to diagnose a comm issue...that is where you should start based on what modules you can communicate with.
no drain to my knowledge, just trying to figure out why it would do this all of a sudden. My blind guess would be if the headers are hot enough to melt the stuff they have melted already, would be pretty easy for them to melt a wire and cause a short circuit to something
If the comm wires were shorted to ground or each other you'd have issues...those wires are not near your headers...how much electrical diagnostic experience do you have ??...if you know how to use a DMM I'd disconnect the battery and with your ohm meter place the leads on terminals 6 and 14 at the DLC...CAN high and low...you should see 60 ohms...if you see 120 you have an open in the "physical layer"...CAN lines, a connector or the CAN transceiver located within the module...checking terminal 2 (serial data bus) to a good ground you should see around 4K ohms (4000 ohms)....now reconnect the battery and with your DMM you should see 2.5 volts roughly on terminal 6 to ground and 14 to ground...you should also see a fluctuating voltage on terminal 2 to ground.
across 6 and 14 CAN low terminal 6 CAN high terminal 14 Good High Speed and Serial Data waveform. terminal 2 to ground --4.588K ohms...4588 ohms
Good Class 2...fluctuating voltage of less than 1 volt...with scope you will see a 0-7 volt square wave,
these are the ohms, this is when the car is cold. It always starts when it’s cold.
should I drive it until hot when it usually has troubles getting power after I turn it off and do the same test?
Is 6 and 14 with ignition ON ??...thought you had NO ignition function ??...with ignition off you should just see some "ghost" voltage on either on !!...this is my 6 and 14 ignition ON...roughly 2.5 volt bias...with battery DISCONNECTED you should see roughly 60 ohms with one lead on 6 and other on 14.
07 Z06 electrical issues
