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I bought a base 2010 about 3 months ago. Not sure if the problem has always been there, but I am noticing it now.
No error messages or CEL.
car starts just fine. Red Top Optima that is 2 years old.
Alternator is AC Delco Valeo. 145A
Starting the car, it does fine until it completely warms up. This is when issues start.
My dash and AC control backlighting will start to flicker at idle speed but not above 1k RPM.
Voltage varies at idle between 12.5 and 13.7 volts, randomly as the car idles. 13.7 constant above 1k RPM.
Battery test at Autozone stopped testing at " battery is good but needs charged" Autozone could not test further past this message.
the problem is that everything is good until the car fully warms up. I would have to think that testing the alternator cold if I pull it, itll show good. Autozone could not test the alternator because their tester stopped at battery needs charged. Having said that, would a reputable shop be able to test the system while the car is warmed up?
I bought a base 2010 about 3 months ago. Not sure if the problem has always been there, but I am noticing it now.
No error messages or CEL.
car starts just fine. Red Top Optima that is 2 years old.
Alternator is AC Delco Valeo. 145A
Starting the car, it does fine until it completely warms up. This is when issues start.
My dash and AC control backlighting will start to flicker at idle speed but not above 1k RPM.
Voltage varies at idle between 12.5 and 13.7 volts, randomly as the car idles. 13.7 constant above 1k RPM.
Battery test at Autozone stopped testing at " battery is good but needs charged" Autozone could not test further past this message.
Where to start?
Where to start ???...at the battery !!...maybe a power or ground issue...take the car to an auto electric shop in your area...CEL will only illuminate for something that affects the cars emissions... you need a scan tool that can scan body and chassis DTC's.
Where to start ???...at the battery !!...maybe a power or ground issue...take the car to an auto electric shop in your area...CEL will only illuminate for something that affects the cars emissions... you need a scan tool that can scan body and chassis DTC's.
I read somewhere that to test for ground issues, to use jumper cables and hook up the negative terminal of the battery to a good ground to bypass the ground wire. I tried that, and it made no difference. If that means anything at all.
I read somewhere that to test for ground issues, to use jumper cables and hook up the negative terminal of the battery to a good ground to bypass the ground wire. I tried that, and it made no difference. If that means anything at all.
If the car doesn't start that is a quick way to check for a bad body ground...let me check the wiring schematic and see if the IPC and HVAC grounds are tied in together.
If the car doesn't start that is a quick way to check for a bad body ground...let me check the wiring schematic and see if the IPC and HVAC grounds are tied in together.
The car starts just fine, every time. It runs great with no flicker issues whatsoever. Voltage is at 14v to 14.2v. The problem starts when the car is fully warmed up. The voltage will drop in the 12v to 13v range and the flickering starts.
If the engine bay does not get hot, there is no issue.
Last edited by corvettezman; Yesterday at 02:15 AM.
If the voltage is dropping that low into the 12's and while that is happening and the engine is running take one lead of your DMM and connect it to battery positive and take the other lead and place it on the STUD of the under hood fuse block B+ cable and now read the voltage...it should read close to 0 volts which means you have no voltage drop between the battery and the fuse block...if over 0.5 volts (and even if it's less than 0.5 volts) remove battery negative and then remove the nut that holds down the B+ cable...the nut may be loose or you have corrosion on the B+ terminal there...remove it and clean with some emery cloth install and retest with DMM...also make sure that the bolts holding down the fuse block are tight...at the BCM with battery negative still disconnected remove the J1 and J2 connectors clean with contact cleaner and reinstall...remove the nut securing J3 and also clean with contact cleaner...now remove the BCM and on the back side of it remove the nut holding J4 down and clean those connections down also...reinstall the BCM and then battery negative and see what happens.
Also when the battery voltage dips low take your DMM and place one lead on the B+ terminal STUD of the alternator and the other lead on battery POSITIVE and read the voltage drop...do the same from the alternator case to the negative battery terminal...we want to make sure we don't have a big voltage drop in the charging system.
Also when the battery voltage dips low take your DMM and place one lead on the B+ terminal STUD of the alternator and the other lead on battery POSITIVE and read the voltage drop...do the same from the alternator case to the negative battery terminal...we want to make sure we don't have a big voltage drop in the charging system.
The lowest I have seen this morning going to breakfast and getting gas at Costco while having the voltage monitor on the display is 13.3 V. The flicker starts there, if I am stopped at a light or something. Not drastic but noticeable. I soon as I take off, the voltage jumps back up between 14.1 to 14.2.
I'd do the charging system voltage drop check when this occurs...with heat comes resistance and with resistance comes a voltage drop...you will have to test as we can't give you a firm diagnosis over the internet....I would also have your battery load tested.
I'd do the charging system voltage drop check when this occurs...with heat comes resistance and with resistance comes a voltage drop...you will have to test as we can't give you a firm diagnosis over the internet....I would also have your battery load tested.
I had Autozone check the charging system yesterday. They told me the Optima was good but needs charged. Not sure why because it has no issues starting the car. They said they can't test further until the battery is fully charged. Battery is a red top and 2 years old. I almost swapped it, but they did not have one that fits in stock.
I know it's Autozone, but he said if the battery is not fully charged after you've been driving the car, then it's the alternator.
I wouldn't listen to those idiots at Autozone !!...if you have high resistance in the charging system circuit the battery will not charge fully...the battery can be undercharged but still charge the car..."those that can't fix cars sells parts" !!!
charging system question.
