How to Hardwire V1
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 908
Likes: 1
From: Las Vegas NV
How to Hardwire V1
Okay, today I hardwired the new V1 into the car. 
These directions are just one option, but will also work for other radar detectors too. The overall plan was to mount the V1 near the rearview, with the powerwire strung to the right and down, and into the fuse box by the passenger foot area. Here's how I did it. 
1. Start by removing the top and stowing it in the trunk. Take a beer break here, cause you wont want to later when your C6 looks like a hoopty.
2. Swing the visors out of the way and remove BOTH visor "clips" using a torx bit and screwdriver (sorry, don't know the size). The one on the right contains the cupholder light, and you will find some wires in there. Just let it dangle.
3. In the black "cover" that runs along the length of the winshield, (at the top) find the small dime-sized hole near the rearview mirror. There will be wires running in and out of here from the car to the accessories in the mirror.
4. With the V1, string the "phone cord" power cable in thru this hole. (with other detectors, string the main power wire here.) Gently pull down on the black cover, and with a little careful nudging, you will be able to string the phone cord thru the hole and out the rear-side of the cover, exiting into the cockpit. The wire will have to physically travel BELOW the metal frame of the car in this location.
5. Pull the cord all the way thru until about 5-6 inches remain dangling near the rearview mirror. Leave enough room for eventual connection to the radar detector...where ever you decide to mount it.
6. Remove passenger floormat, pull back kickboard to expose the fuse terminal. I also removed the plastic panel just below the glove box for easier access. It contains a light which can be tricky to remove. I found that the entire "clear plastic window" and lightbulb assembly was the easiest way to disconnect the plastic panel and get it out of the way. Don't burn your fingers.
7. Now run the power cord along the top of the car, carefully tucking it in and routing it around the targa top rightside lock in point. Run it down the right pillar, past the air vent and down to the door hinge area.
8. Remove the ~6 x 3 inch black piece in this area, it pops right out and will allow you an easier wire run to the area behind the glove box.
8a. Almost forgot, you will also have to remove the right "rail cover/door sill" as I call it. It is the plastic piece that is on the right side of the passenger foot area and runs all the way back, next to the seat, and "corvette" logo on the door sill.
8b. It is a bi%#h to remove, and I managed to break part of the clip when re-installing later. Do this part very carefully!
9. Finish the run and exit the wire behind the glovebox and down into the fuse panel area.
10. Here's what I did next. This technique may not be perfect, but it works. Since I couldn't find a "cold wire" (ie one that's cold now but hot when the motor is on) in the massive array of wires down there, I found that the fuse for the Cruise control was cold, but hot when the engine was started.
11. For the V1, clip the end of the phone wire into the little cylinder-shaped "power adapter" thing. Run the red wire from it, to the cruise control fuse. Trim off the supplied fancy wire splicer blue part and expose about 1/8 inch bare wire.
12. Wrap the end of the red wire with bare wire around one arm of the fuse and re-insert it into the slot.
13. Run black grounding wire to the car grounding wire terminal. It's where your right calf would be if you were sitting normally in the pass seat. There are a bunch of black wires attached there with a 10mm nut (I think). A normal ratchet will fit in there to loosed and tighten.
14. Replace everything and enjoy your hardwired V1!!
Sorry no pics, I was busy WORKING on the car, not creating a documentary out there today. So honk on it.
Good luck
Let me know if you have questions.
These directions are just one option, but will also work for other radar detectors too. The overall plan was to mount the V1 near the rearview, with the powerwire strung to the right and down, and into the fuse box by the passenger foot area. Here's how I did it. 1. Start by removing the top and stowing it in the trunk. Take a beer break here, cause you wont want to later when your C6 looks like a hoopty.
2. Swing the visors out of the way and remove BOTH visor "clips" using a torx bit and screwdriver (sorry, don't know the size). The one on the right contains the cupholder light, and you will find some wires in there. Just let it dangle.
3. In the black "cover" that runs along the length of the winshield, (at the top) find the small dime-sized hole near the rearview mirror. There will be wires running in and out of here from the car to the accessories in the mirror.
4. With the V1, string the "phone cord" power cable in thru this hole. (with other detectors, string the main power wire here.) Gently pull down on the black cover, and with a little careful nudging, you will be able to string the phone cord thru the hole and out the rear-side of the cover, exiting into the cockpit. The wire will have to physically travel BELOW the metal frame of the car in this location.
5. Pull the cord all the way thru until about 5-6 inches remain dangling near the rearview mirror. Leave enough room for eventual connection to the radar detector...where ever you decide to mount it.
6. Remove passenger floormat, pull back kickboard to expose the fuse terminal. I also removed the plastic panel just below the glove box for easier access. It contains a light which can be tricky to remove. I found that the entire "clear plastic window" and lightbulb assembly was the easiest way to disconnect the plastic panel and get it out of the way. Don't burn your fingers.
7. Now run the power cord along the top of the car, carefully tucking it in and routing it around the targa top rightside lock in point. Run it down the right pillar, past the air vent and down to the door hinge area.
8. Remove the ~6 x 3 inch black piece in this area, it pops right out and will allow you an easier wire run to the area behind the glove box.
8a. Almost forgot, you will also have to remove the right "rail cover/door sill" as I call it. It is the plastic piece that is on the right side of the passenger foot area and runs all the way back, next to the seat, and "corvette" logo on the door sill.
8b. It is a bi%#h to remove, and I managed to break part of the clip when re-installing later. Do this part very carefully!
9. Finish the run and exit the wire behind the glovebox and down into the fuse panel area.
10. Here's what I did next. This technique may not be perfect, but it works. Since I couldn't find a "cold wire" (ie one that's cold now but hot when the motor is on) in the massive array of wires down there, I found that the fuse for the Cruise control was cold, but hot when the engine was started.
11. For the V1, clip the end of the phone wire into the little cylinder-shaped "power adapter" thing. Run the red wire from it, to the cruise control fuse. Trim off the supplied fancy wire splicer blue part and expose about 1/8 inch bare wire.
12. Wrap the end of the red wire with bare wire around one arm of the fuse and re-insert it into the slot.
13. Run black grounding wire to the car grounding wire terminal. It's where your right calf would be if you were sitting normally in the pass seat. There are a bunch of black wires attached there with a 10mm nut (I think). A normal ratchet will fit in there to loosed and tighten.
14. Replace everything and enjoy your hardwired V1!!
Sorry no pics, I was busy WORKING on the car, not creating a documentary out there today. So honk on it.
Good luck
Let me know if you have questions.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 257
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
Hard wired the V1 today. Similar to Buster1's install but less trim removal:
1.) cut the end of the "hot" side of the V1 connector box lead and wrap around the cruise control or heated seat fuse and re-insert fuse in fuse box. - Same as what Buster1 did.
2.) Attach V1 connector box ground wire to one of the four bolts securing the Bose amp which is right up against the fuse box on the left.
3.)pry up (just pull back really) the passenger side a-pillar trim with your hand. You can see light down from the bottom & behind of the a-pillar trim towards the floor behind the glove box. You can push the power cable (in the V1's case it is a telephone cord) down through the opening (you may want to use a straight piece of coat-hanger to guide the cord thru) and it pops out just over the fuse box area. Plug cord into V1 connector box.
4.) run cord behind the a-pillar, tuck up under the trim that runs along the top of the windshield and you're done!
What I didn't have to do:
1.) anything with the visors.
2.) remove the ~6 x 3 inch black piece
3.) worry about the clear light bulb assembly under the dash/passenger foot well
4.)remove the right "rail cover/door sill".
1.) cut the end of the "hot" side of the V1 connector box lead and wrap around the cruise control or heated seat fuse and re-insert fuse in fuse box. - Same as what Buster1 did.
2.) Attach V1 connector box ground wire to one of the four bolts securing the Bose amp which is right up against the fuse box on the left.
3.)pry up (just pull back really) the passenger side a-pillar trim with your hand. You can see light down from the bottom & behind of the a-pillar trim towards the floor behind the glove box. You can push the power cable (in the V1's case it is a telephone cord) down through the opening (you may want to use a straight piece of coat-hanger to guide the cord thru) and it pops out just over the fuse box area. Plug cord into V1 connector box.
4.) run cord behind the a-pillar, tuck up under the trim that runs along the top of the windshield and you're done!
What I didn't have to do:
1.) anything with the visors.
2.) remove the ~6 x 3 inch black piece
3.) worry about the clear light bulb assembly under the dash/passenger foot well
4.)remove the right "rail cover/door sill".
Last edited by Vespa-Vette; Nov 15, 2004 at 06:46 PM.
