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my builder told me this morning, folks are replacing, yes, to make more power, but also the thermal temps were way to high on them, apparently on the 17s GM has cured the problem, i have no idea. just what i am being told. i still wouldn t hesitate to pick one up for my Stingray. he didn mention anything to me about how to solve heat problem. he also mentioned a charger off a Ls9 is a good choice also.
thanks for your input on this thread T/A very interesting.
Hes slightly right, hence why I mentioned it gets a little hot... best way to combat that is more fluid and higher flow pump, the eforce pump is plug and play and moves more volume then the stock pump, the eforce coolant tank in conjunction with the stock tank doubles the capacity of fluid... I also run straight distilled water unless it's freezing out, these changes alone cost Very little and help a ton over a factory z06 configuration.
plus no more worry about air bubbles in the factory system, plus fluid changes are easy. Took me 5 min to drain some fluid out and install coolant when winter cam, going back to straight water in a couple of weeks
I just had a LT4 blower added to my LT1 Stingray...
Was wondering if this looks right to you?
Thanks.
-M
Dont plug that port (that's part of the snout and needs to see boost from the bypass valve (like factory)
The port that you want to put a nipple on is the lower port... I have a pic of mine welded up if you wanted to see it, but just closing it off with a nipple is fine
Reason that there is 2 from the factory is to allow the bypass valve to dump boost
Dont plug that port (that's part of the snout and needs to see boost from the bypass valve (like factory)
The port that you want to put a nipple on is the lower port... I have a pic of mine welded up if you wanted to see it, but just closing it off with a nipple is fine
Reason that there is 2 from the factory is to allow the bypass valve to dump boost
T/A
Thank you for the information. Much appreciated. I will make the switch on the capped port. I assume that I can leave the far right open port on the bypass valve open? (As shown in my original pic)
Thanks
-M
Last edited by managerman; 03-26-2017 at 08:58 PM.
Thank you for the information. Much appreciated. I will make the switch on the capped port. I assume that I can leave the far right open port on the bypass valve open? (As shown in my original pic)
Thanks
-M
no problem!! Yea I put a vac cap on mine, but yes the port on the bypass valve closer to the TB you don't need
For anyone reading for the lt1 to run the bypass valve dump like the LT4, you would have to wire it to the ECU... however, it's not needed bc I many so away with it on lt4 through tuning much like zl1s, ctsv's etc
i like the top mounted like e force or roots style, as opposed to centri.
but twice as much $$$
I had my lt4 setup for about 1/2 the price as ltx centri kits so if you know what to do and get a solid deal on an lt4 blower it makes perfect since....
my buddies car made around 700rwhp and 700rwtq ( I didn't tune it, but a well known vendor did, really suprised at the tune as well, needless to say, could have been more)
I had my lt4 setup for about 1/2 the price as ltx centri kits so if you know what to do and get a solid deal on an lt4 blower it makes perfect since....
my buddies car made around 700rwhp and 700rwtq ( I didn't tune it, but a well known vendor did, really suprised at the tune as well, needless to say, could have been more)
Hes slightly right, hence why I mentioned it gets a little hot... best way to combat that is more fluid and higher flow pump, the eforce pump is plug and play and moves more volume then the stock pump, the eforce coolant tank in conjunction with the stock tank doubles the capacity of fluid... I also run straight distilled water unless it's freezing out, these changes alone cost Very little and help a ton over a factory z06 configuration.
plus no more worry about air bubbles in the factory system, plus fluid changes are easy. Took me 5 min to drain some fluid out and install coolant when winter cam, going back to straight water in a couple of weeks
Hey bud I am planning on going that route since it's way cheaper and satisfy my needs for now. So for a wet sump setup, all I would need is a ATI wet sump crank pulley, edelbrock(eforce?) Water pump/reservoir to make it plug and play and easier? Everything else shold fit good right? And a ls9 map sensor? Also I can use edelbrock coolent reservoir and stock reservoir both together? Much appreciate the info
hey do I need to upgrade my injectors and fuel pump for 600+ Rwhp one guy did the install and told me he had to im not to sure about this as other blowers like Eforce and pro charger didn't need this upgrade
hey do I need to upgrade my injectors and fuel pump for 600+ Rwhp one guy did the install and told me he had to im not to sure about this as other blowers like Eforce and pro charger didn't need this upgrade
stock fuel system only good for upper 500rwhp so anything over 600 will need something
Ive done over 750rwhp on a customers car on stock lt1 fuel system and stock low side... BUT we used twin 15gph nozzles...
working on a vette now with the above and a 32% cam lobe and we're looking for over 800rwhp
stock fuel system only good for upper 500rwhp so anything over 600 will need something
Ive done over 750rwhp on a customers car on stock lt1 fuel system and stock low side... BUT we used twin 15gph nozzles...
working on a vette now with the above and a 32% cam lobe and we're looking for over 800rwhp
so wil meth be fine wit stock fuel system and stock injectors
03-15-2017, 02:39 PM
