2014 M7 with Procharger D1. 29,000 miles. I live in Reno NV at 5000 ft elevation and drive to Sacramento once every two months (sea level).

Had a shop install the D1. Guy thought he was tuning guru and after 3+ months and bucking like a wild bronco across intersections I went to my local chevy dealer Champion Chevrolet. They recommended Dustin at Street to Sand. He has a lot of 1000+ HP builds in his shop and I have seen a lot of vettes there too.

He puts it on the dyno to see what the other guy did. Came up with corrected to sea level 507 HP at rear tires. Said the weird curve shows belt is slipping. He tightens belt and runs it again. 499 HP and computer is pulling timing everywhere!

He takes out tune, puts in Procharger tune and runs it again. 675 rear wheel corrected HP! If I smiled any harder my face would crack! He backs off timing from 12 to 10 and runs it again. 625 HP. He says this is a safer tune. He does more, cleaning up tune. By the way, 8.17 lbs boost. NO METH. At my elevation I loose 15% HP at rear tires so I really have 530 rear wheel HP.

Fast forward 5 or 6 months. Vette starts missing at about 4000 rpm at WOT. They put in bung for wide band and check everything. They say a spark plug seems to be bad. They tell me to stop putting in Lucas octane booster with every tank and use Chevron Premium. Everything great for several weeks and it starts up again, but is intermittent! Connect up his laptop and it really doesnt show anything wrong.

Info: on first day at Street to Sand Dustin broke out Baro sensor and placed it on top of intake plumbing. ZR1/LS9 map sensor installed in intake manifold on drivers side. Temp sensor broken out of MAF sensor and placed in pressurized inlet 12 inches from intake manifold. MAF sensor in PRESSURIZED inlet 9 inches from intake manifold.

It is my impression that Dustin may not quite know which tables to modify and just how to modify them. Plus, dont I need to put the MAF (even though it now has no baro or temp sensor in it) in the NON-PRESSURIZED plumbing next to the air filter?

Can any of you folks here help me with this? One last point why I think this is a problem related to the tables needing to be properly modified is because every single time I took it to sea level if I hit the throttle as soon as ~ 4000 rpm came up it started to buck and miss.

I've been very happy here in Reno. Beat a dodge Hell Cat soundly, and I mean soundly!

Please answer here on the forum or PM me.

 

Higgs, TA Kid, someone.... I am willing to pay for your help. I have been dealing with this issue - Proper tuning at high elevation and sea level - for quite a long time. It is my impression this is simply a matter of proper sensors, proper sensor placement, and proper tuning. We are 90% there.... Please PM me.

Rick

 

I want to make further upgrades, headers, smaller pulley, maybe meth too. But, not until this issue has been resolved.

Rick

 

correcting for the LS9 and broken out Baro and the broken out IAT is easy enough. Taking advantage of the new map setup so your VVE table (speed density) is properly tuned takes a little more time.

the maf is in the right place but I would put the IAT sensor close to the TB and after the MAF as a meth nozzle (or two) would be between them, not spraying the MAF but spraying the IAT sensor (so spark can be set up to take advantage of the "cold" meth).

I am happy to help get it set up right and go over the tune if you want to email it to me.

 

Very interesting, obtaining advanced spark by putting the meth nozzles just in front of the IAT. Up to this point I have not had to use meth, but I take it if I want to make any other upgrades I must. OK, lets get the tables done right so this cars sensor and computer system functions like OEM at high elevation and low elevation. I shall meet with Dustin at Street to Sand and ask him to send a copy of my tune to you. Please PM me with what you would like to be paid and payment method.

THANK YOU!

Rick

 

Since my original tune was at 12 degrees and lowered to 10 degrees for safety, this means that with meth I could go back to 12 degrees and 674 RWHP (corrected for sea level). That seems like a fairly cheap way to get 50 RWHP!

 

I will need your email address. I will assume at this point Dustin will know how to email the existing tune to you.

 

I want to post some corrections;


looked at my dyno runs and saw that I had 671 RWHP at 8.20 lbs boost and at 10 degrees timing had 624 RWHP at 8.77 lbs boost. Strange, no torque reading on the last run. All corrected for sea level SAE.

 

Just seen this..... Higgs can get ya straight on the tune!!! 👍🏻

Ive been covered lately