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Trying to spec out a cam for an F1X build and wondering how many degrees overlap, if any, to have. Traditionally I know 0 is best for forced induction but someone on LS1tech picked over 100rwhp from their YSi build with 20 degrees overlap. Any tips? don't want an off the shelf cam.
Mine is a 231/242 116LSA for 4.5 degrees of overlap. This was the cam setup in my car with the stock blower making 708/740. Now that I'm on the F1X, not sure it's the best cam for the application but we'll see how it does here soon. Hoping to be on the dyno in another 2 weeks or so.
Mine is a 231/242 116LSA for 4.5 degrees of overlap. This was the cam setup in my car with the stock blower making 708/740. Now that I'm on the F1X, not sure it's the best cam for the application but we'll see how it does here soon. Hoping to be on the dyno in another 2 weeks or so.
That will be a good street cam for the car to be able to live with it on the street for sure. But for a F1X blower you are leaving a good amount off the table with that one. But then again don't know your ci, heads & that set up on your car.. Robert
intake and exhaust port flow numbers?
cubes?
RPMs?
usage?
trans?
376 ci, I want to see how long the stock long block will hold up. The car is a manual. Usage is to go as fast as possible I could care less about driveability lol. I want to shoot for 7400 rpm max.
How would these heads, or similar flow numbers do?
376 ci, I want to see how long the stock long block will hold up. The car is a manual. Usage is to go as fast as possible I could care less about driveability lol. I want to shoot for 7400 rpm max.
How would these heads, or similar flow numbers do?
376 ci, I want to see how long the stock long block will hold up. The car is a manual. Usage is to go as fast as possible I could care less about driveability lol. I want to shoot for 7400 rpm max.
How would these heads, or similar flow numbers do?
If high RPM power is your only concern then you need to consider what your weakest link will be to get there. Will the stock bottom end spin that RPM reliably?
After that, you want the highest flowing heads, intake manifold, headers, and exhaust you can get your hands on like a sheet metal intake, aftermarket casting ported heads (rather than stock ported ones), 2 inch primaries with no cats, etc
a cam that makes power over 7000 RPMs is going to need an idle around 1000-1200 RPMs and will not give any drivability, low RPM throttle response, no more VVT or DoD (of course), and so on.
why do you want to make power at 7400 RPMs? you can make all the power you want at 6500.
If high RPM power is your only concern then you need to consider what your weakest link will be to get there. Will the stock bottom end spin that RPM reliably?
After that, you want the highest flowing heads, intake manifold, headers, and exhaust you can get your hands on like a sheet metal intake, aftermarket casting ported heads (rather than stock ported ones), 2 inch primaries with no cats, etc
a cam that makes power over 7000 RPMs is going to need an idle around 1000-1200 RPMs and will not give any drivability, low RPM throttle response, no more VVT or DoD (of course), and so on.
why do you want to make power at 7400 RPMs? you can make all the power you want at 6500.
Okay thanks for steering me in the right direction. After reading more there really is no need for that much rpm, unless anyone else can chime in?
If high RPM power is your only concern then you need to consider what your weakest link will be to get there. Will the stock bottom end spin that RPM reliably?
After that, you want the highest flowing heads, intake manifold, headers, and exhaust you can get your hands on like a sheet metal intake, aftermarket casting ported heads (rather than stock ported ones), 2 inch primaries with no cats, etc
a cam that makes power over 7000 RPMs is going to need an idle around 1000-1200 RPMs and will not give any drivability, low RPM throttle response, no more VVT or DoD (of course), and so on.
why do you want to make power at 7400 RPMs? you can make all the power you want at 6500.
Also here to the OP you better be looking at a solid lift cam. Will need a sheet metal intake, Plus like this guy has said replace every major part from motor to the rear end. No way this stock stuff is going to hold up at that RPM but a few time for any amount of time in a run.
Last edited by robert miller; Jun 27, 2017 at 11:15 AM.
what we really need to know is what your actual goals are, and then we can tell you how to build it. Are you looking to build a drag car, road race car, street car, etc?
Im also trying to get my car to do the same thing, i need my power to flow to 7k at least, my car is a z51 and the ratios are bad in my opinion since if i shift from 3rd to 4th the car seems to be a little sleepy at the beginning of the 4th gear, so instead of shifting at 6500 i would rather to shift at 7k in 3rd gear that way 4th gear will start with 5200 rpms instead of 4800, if you know what i mean
Im also trying to get my car to do the same thing, i need my power to flow to 7k at least, my car is a z51 and the ratios are bad in my opinion since if i shift from 3rd to 4th the car seems to be a little sleepy at the beginning of the 4th gear, so instead of shifting at 6500 i would rather to shift at 7k in 3rd gear that way 4th gear will start with 5200 rpms instead of 4800, if you know what i mean
Need to ditch the stock intake manifold... its runner length isn't designed for 7000rpm
With the stock blower yeah? Every graph with a Procharger build I've seen builds power till redline. I want to maximize the F1X potential but not have horrible low end that's why I'm wondering about overlap.
what we really need to know is what your actual goals are, and then we can tell you how to build it. Are you looking to build a drag car, road race car, street car, etc?
With the stock blower yeah? Every graph with a Procharger build I've seen builds power till redline. I want to maximize the F1X potential but not have horrible low end that's why I'm wondering about overlap.
You will not be able to max that F1X with what you are talking about at all. That blower with the correct cam set up & heads can pull some very good numbers. I will tell you these cars will not hold that power for long at all.
I am talking stock trans & rear end, Plus you will need big CI motor and that blower will make you chg out your pants every time you push it. I had a RHS 427 WITH 245 trick flow heads that tooley had work on with almost the same cam just for the street as this guy has posted in here.
My c5 with this motor in it would make me think why am I doing this in this car. But again to c5 conv with no cage in it also. Robert
That will be a good street cam for the car to be able to live with it on the street for sure. But for a F1X blower you are leaving a good amount off the table with that one. But then again don't know your ci, heads & that set up on your car.. Robert
I figure, if/when the motor lets go, I'll make sure to spec the cam out to be efficient for the new motor and power goals....for now, it's just a street car. Hopefully a 4 digit street car, but street car none the less.