I went back and read the alkycontrol instructions and I don’t think that is right. See below

“The first thing I always do is visually place where the location of the “turn-on” LED will be located. Typically this will be near your boost gauge or wideband gauge. The purpose of this LED is to indicate when the system has reached its turn-on threshold based on the signal from the MAP sensor(Red). And when the pump switch has moved indicating pressure (Green)(<50 PSI). It must be somewhere easily seen.
The red wire coming from the relay will go the larger red wire with spade terminal on the PAC. Simply cut the spade off and splice the wires together. Solder and heat shrink recommended.
Next is attach the orange wire from the turn-on led to the orange wire coming from the controller, brown wire to brown wire.
Attach the red and green wire from the MAP to the red and green wire on the PAC controller. The violet/gray wire leave alone until latter.”

im assuming that you are using the alkycontrol kit but just using the devils own pump? If that it the case you shouldn’t need to do anything but wire in the pump. If that is not the case let me know .

okay I see what your saying, under that assumption I would say you are correct. Luckily the parts you are looking at are cheap so it is an inexpensive trial and error. You should be able to easily test on a bench using a brake Bleader pump. You may need a resistor in line on the flow sensor (haven’t read the specs on the one you showed in your link) as most can’t handle 12v.

most certainly a huge benefit to the community.
i find it kinda of funny over the years of doing water/meth injection the progression of pumps. I look back to 1990 when I built my first system on my Supra and pretty much for the dyi guy besides aquamist you went with shurflo pumps. I think the highest psi at the time was 80psi. I built systems from parts I could buy from MasterCarr.com.always running for 20-25% water/meth injection needs based off fuel needs. I adjust nozzles as psi went up on available pumps, but never had issues with atomization even at 80psi. Now with pumps at 250psi + I’m not 100% convinced that there are really any true gains with the higher psi pumps. My eclipse was 680whp with 50/50 water meth ratio on a 150psi pump and diy kit with all parts sourced from mastercarr.com besides the pump which was a 150psi shurflow pump. my 335i was a proceed kit put out by vishnutunning which was plug and play with their piggyback Ecu tuning software which later modified because of crappy controllers from labbonte. I switched over to the aquamist he505 flow switch which acted as a fail safe with progressive tuning. I believe that was a 150psi shurflow pump as well and is still running today for 8 plus years....my son now has that car as his daily driver at 535rwhp and 585 rwhp on e60.i used Devilsown nozzles on the 335i And were fantastic! I think the durability of the braided lines on the alkycontrol system and the whole package is very good, but I’m sure a diy’er can build a set up equally as good for a pretty good savings. I was originally going the diy route, but got a great deal on a used alkycontrol system that made the point mute. Good Luck and I’m anxious on your results.

Jimxms, out of. Curiosity wher are you located as a saw uk prices on your links? I’m assuming England? If so I grew up in Bristol..FYI.

ha..I have a buddy in London who is always complaining about the cost of gas.

unfortunatly mine was a gen 3, still was a great car. I’m anxiously awaiting the new Supra as it may make its way into my garage for my girlfriend. If the hype is right it should be very easily tunable to be a 400hp car with nothing besides a tune.