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Messaged BTR on proper push rod lengths, i just think the issue would have showed up before
Don't think BTR's answer is going to be accurate. IMO, this questions should go to the guy who installed your cylinder heads. He should have measured the correct pushrod length to achieve the correct lifter pre-load
Every combo is different. I was recommended by the vendor to use stock length pushrods (7.85"), but I ended up with 7.8" pushrods
Don't think BTR's answer is going to be accurate. IMO, this questions should go to the guy who installed your cylinder heads. He should have measured the correct pushrod length to achieve the correct lifter pre-load
Every combo is different. I was recommended by the vendor to use stock length pushrods (7.85"), but I ended up with 7.8" pushrods
What's measured to test the correct lifter pre-load? That's interesting because most of these shops when you order a cam kit etc they typically order and have everything in for the install. I doubt this is done correctly often.
Pressure tested entire system, addressed 1 minor leak on MAP sensor...
Adjusted and tripple checked BOV, even switch to another race PC BOV... Good to go.
Purchased new tensioner and mounting plate as the original one didn't free spin the best.
Leakdown test came back good with no issues internally.
Springs looked good when it was apart again, cant see BTR springs failing in under 1000 miles.
Checked throttle position, its not closing at all...
As we fix minor things an improve air flow the issue is becoming more pronounced eariler in RPM band, as im hitting boost eariler. Now it's nosing over at 5200K. Don't know wtf else to do.
Looking at replacing the intercooler, maybe something is jacked up inside? Seeing 4-6# difference preintercooler to manifold. But it still falls on its face at, boost wise; the rpms will still climb. Running gated HD green belt, thinking of switching to something softer, maybe this **** isn't gripping. What other belts are good?
Pressure tested entire system, addressed 1 minor leak on MAP sensor...
Adjusted and tripple checked BOV, even switch to another race PC BOV... Good to go.
Purchased new tensioner and mounting plate as the original one didn't free spin the best.
Leakdown test came back good with no issues internally.
Springs looked good when it was apart again, cant see BTR springs failing in under 1000 miles.
Checked throttle position, its not closing at all...
As we fix minor things an improve air flow the issue is becoming more pronounced eariler in RPM band, as im hitting boost eariler. Now it's nosing over at 5200K. Don't know wtf else to do.
Looking at replacing the intercooler, maybe something is jacked up inside? Seeing 4-6# difference preintercooler to manifold. But it still falls on its face at, boost wise; the rpms will still climb. Running gated HD green belt, thinking of switching to something softer, maybe this **** isn't gripping. What other belts are good?
Remove blower inlet elbow, filter and go for a quick test to rule out inlet restriction.
No sir, i read they dont like to give... was debating on going the other way in terms of something softer that may grip better. The Gates HD green belts is what ive been using. The pulley was getting crazy hot but no dust, shavings etc indicating slip. And moving to 10 rib, boost should be around 19-20# ..
Ditch that **** belt bro get an rpm belt, before i used to think green is the best, but not after i trierthe rpm
the hd will have too much stretch and will keep breaking, if the rpm belt is set probably you will forget about any issue that can be caused by the belt!
That's next with a griptech pulley. Actually going in a different direction at this point with A2W. But with the GT pulley, RPM belt i figure this issue will finally be over. Thanks fellas!