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Can someone give me any tips/tricks to getting this new belt on my F1A-94? Picked it up from the shop after having a 3.8 upper put on with a K080435HD on it but was told the belt was slipping so it would be best to go with a K080427HD. Long story longer, I figure no problem I’ll bring it home to get it done. Why did I say that lol? Got the old belt off, the idler pulley moved to the outer most position (told to do so by the shop), new belt routed through but that’s where I’m stuck. Seems like I’ll never be able to get this thing onto the pulley. Tried pulling up on the tensioner, removing all tension while trying to get it on but stills seems too damn tight. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I remove the blower pulley and the idler pulley. When going back in put the belt on blower pulley first then install blower pulley followed by the idler pulley. After a few times you’ll be able to do it in 10-15mins easily.
when going to install the blower pulley I use a long pry bar to pry the tensioner up and with other hand slide the pulley on to blower. Same with idler pry the tensioner up and slide the idler pulley with bolt on. Try to get the bolt hole closest to tensioner as it will give you more belt wrap on blower pulley. With the 4.0 it won’t go but with anything smaller you can get the furthest bolt hole.
Last edited by LuckyC7Z06; Mar 27, 2020 at 09:13 PM.
I remove the blower pulley and the idler pulley. When going back in put the belt on blower pulley first then install blower pulley followed by the idler pulley. After a few times you’ll be able to do it in 10-15mins easily.
when going to install the blower pulley I use a long pry bar to pry the tensioner up and with other hand slide the pulley on to blower. Same with idler pry the tensioner up and slide the idler pulley with bolt on. Try to get the bolt hole closest to tensioner as it will give you more belt wrap on blower pulley. With the 4.0 it won’t go but with anything smaller you can get the furthest bolt hole.
I'm following you up to the point on mentioning where to put the idler pulley. Are you saying you’re agreeing with using the outer most hole with the shorter belt?
I'm following you up to the point on mentioning where to put the idler pulley. Are you saying you’re agreeing with using the outer most hole with the shorter belt?
if your standing in front of car looking at engine go with the one farthest left if you can get it on. The bolt hole to the right is for larger pulleys as belt will be too tight to get it on the left bolt hole. Always use the left one if belt length permits as it gives you more belt wrap around pulley.
if your standing in front of car looking at engine go with the one farthest left if you can get it on. The bolt hole to the right is for larger pulleys as belt will be too tight to get it on the left bolt hole. Always use the left one if belt length permits as it gives you more belt wrap around pulley.
ok I see. What’s the best way to stop the blower pulley from turning while trying to break the bolt loose?
You wouldn’t need to remove blower pulley, I have changed belts in 15 mins before you need to install the belt on the blower pulley without the idler pulley installed that will help give you space to install the belt on the blower pulley, after you install the belt slide the idler pulley against the belt until the bolt line up with hole
What size upper pulley? 4.125" Stock lower? I had the same issues and solved mine by going to a GripTec upper and DSX lower. I can get the sizes for you I think the lower is 9.08 and upper is 4.125". I was running a 3.80" upper which was why I was slipping @ 21 psi. At the very least just go with a GripTec upper, that will solve your slipping issues, period. I think that second belt you have is too short especially if you have a stock lower and 4.125" upper. I have ran multiple K080435HD's with that combo just fine. And it's exactly the right size belt. To ease my installation I loosen my right and left (I think) procharger bolts completely and my lower one just some. That lets you move the procharger around a bit to get the belt on. Then you can push it back up once the belt is on and tighten the other two procharger top bolts and then the bottom. Works like a charm. I've had mine off several times now and by far that works the best for me.
What size upper pulley? 4.125" Stock lower? I had the same issues and solved mine by going to a GripTec upper and DSX lower. I can get the sizes for you I think the lower is 9.08 and upper is 4.125". I was running a 3.80" upper which was why I was slipping @ 21 psi. At the very least just go with a GripTec upper, that will solve your slipping issues, period. I think that second belt you have is too short especially if you have a stock lower and 4.125" upper. I have ran multiple K080435HD's with that combo just fine. And it's exactly the right size belt. To ease my installation I loosen my right and left (I think) procharger bolts completely and my lower one just some. That lets you move the procharger around a bit to get the belt on. Then you can push it back up once the belt is on and tighten the other two procharger top bolts and then the bottom. Works like a charm. I've had mine off several times now and by far that works the best for me.
How much boost was you making with stock lower and 4.125 upper? I have a f1a-94 stock lower and 4.75 upper making 11.4 psi now. Trying to turn it up to 15-16psi. Thanks
How much boost was you making with stock lower and 4.125 upper? I have a f1a-94 stock lower and 4.75 upper making 11.4 psi now. Trying to turn it up to 15-16psi. Thanks
My old setup stock lower + 4.125" upper = 17-18lbs (using a Katech 103mm TB + G1Pro 103mm Custom Intake + Holley Port Injection + stock heads/cam)
Gents, you guys seem like you have a lot of procharger experience. I just bought a z with a f1a-94 kit with meth that runs on e85/93 (e50 ideally) making 950whp at about 18lbs through the stock manifolds w/ cat delete pipes, stock rotating assembly. Any pointers? I already ordered blower oil and a spare belt. I honestly thought about "turning it down" a little to keep it safe. Any advice would be appreciated as this is my first c7z.
Gents, you guys seem like you have a lot of procharger experience. I just bought a z with a f1a-94 kit with meth that runs on e85/93 (e50 ideally) making 950whp at about 18lbs through the stock manifolds w/ cat delete pipes, stock rotating assembly. Any pointers? I already ordered blower oil and a spare belt. I honestly thought about "turning it down" a little to keep it safe. Any advice would be appreciated as this is my first c7z.
I would absolutely get you some long tube headers. I run kooks 2" through kooks 3" x-pipe + borla ATAK. Minimum the long tubes will make a huge difference in engine efficiency, especially if you are running 18lbs of boost with that centri. That would be my first buy. Also ensuring your tune is dead on. Especially running both 93 and E. That means timing has to be pulled out based on E percentage. With that power level easy to run lean so those two at a minimum would be my concern. Really amazed you are making those numbers with stock manifolds. What other supporting mods do you have? Or maybe just lower the boost a bit.
I would absolutely get you some long tube headers. I run kooks 2" through kooks 3" x-pipe + borla ATAK. Minimum the long tubes will make a huge difference in engine efficiency, especially if you are running 18lbs of boost with that centri. That would be my first buy. Also ensuring your tune is dead on. Especially running both 93 and E. That means timing has to be pulled out based on E percentage. With that power level easy to run lean so those two at a minimum would be my concern. Really amazed you are making those numbers with stock manifolds. What other supporting mods do you have? Or maybe just lower the boost a bit.
Exactly my thought, I don't want to spend the money right away to do it but Man it seems like it wound really help it be efficient. I also have a
Weapon x low side system
Weapon x twister cam
ALKY control meth kit
ATI balancer
Corsa double helix mid pipe
Corsa extreme axle back
Tuned on E50 blend w/ flex sensor
There are 10k miles on the build. these numbers were on a dynojet. I know those can read a little high sometimes. Think it would hurt it to drive it as is with the factory manifolds or should I do that ASAP
Last edited by Jjagg0125; Jun 18, 2020 at 01:15 PM.
Exactly my thought, I don't want to spend the money right away to do it but Man it seems like it wound really help it be efficient. I also have a
Weapon x low side system
Weapon x twister cam
ALKY control meth kit
ATI balancer
Corsa double helix mid pipe
Corsa extreme axle back
Tuned on E50 blend w/ flex sensor
There are 10k miles on the build. these numbers were on a dynojet. I know those can read a little high sometimes. Think it would hurt it to drive it as is with the factory manifolds or should I do that ASAP
No I doubt you will hurt anything but as we know an engine is just a glorified air pump so you already majorly upgraded the air coming in with the PC and Cam, so now you need to think about evacuating all that air that's forced in. I promise you not only will it be much more efficient, but you will pick up some great horsepower as well. No question. As well as a much nicer sound. But it's not like you HAVE to do this now. I would just make it first on my list and try to do it sooner than later. I think you said you pulled the cats right? That helps a bit. But you are flowing some serious air and making some big power it's just logical for long tubes at this point. Best money spent anyway. And would need an updated tune for sure.
Really a nice setup and that's plenty of power so congrats! Enjoy it and be safe!
No I doubt you will hurt anything but as we know an engine is just a glorified air pump so you already majorly upgraded the air coming in with the PC and Cam, so now you need to think about evacuating all that air that's forced in. I promise you not only will it be much more efficient, but you will pick up some great horsepower as well. No question. As well as a much nicer sound. But it's not like you HAVE to do this now. I would just make it first on my list and try to do it sooner than later. I think you said you pulled the cats right? That helps a bit. But you are flowing some serious air and making some big power it's just logical for long tubes at this point. Best money spent anyway. And would need an updated tune for sure.
Really a nice setup and that's plenty of power so congrats! Enjoy it and be safe!
your 100% right. I have a MM wild catch can on the way and a new alky pump to swap to have a spare. Maybe this winter I will grab a set of 2" LT's and retune.
Procharger Belt
