And so it begins!

Currently with White Owl Performance in Junction City, KS getting the ECS kit installed. This is a veteran-owned shop near Ft. Riley. The team there seems incredibly engaged. I always appreciate builders that get just as excited as the customer about a project. I've been through the shop a few times to get a feel for the team and the work they do before pulling the trigger on the kit. Everything I have seen so far was impressive. Will let you know all how the shop performs.

I can't wait to see what they are able to do. Any thoughts on what the output will be? Already have TSP LT headers, O/R mid with stock NPP, AFE intake, and Soler TB.

 

Congrats. 550 rwhp

 

Cpngrats and thank you for your business! If they have any questions along the way feel free to contact us.

Also right there with Gary, 550 rwhp

 

Stopped by to check on progress yesterday. The kit is on and there's a few minor components to put back on. Looking good! I don't have the factory air box, only the AFE. The team is looking at options.

is it OK to tune conservatively without the Restrictor? Should we just buy a factory box?

On a side note, if anyone is looking for a massively overpowered Gen 4 Supra, the shop owner has one for sale. It's a beast of a car.

 

 

Very nice!!!

 

The issue with not having the restrictor isn't in the tune, it is the lack of fueling and the amount of boost you're going to make. Without the restrictor you're going to make around 10 pounds and you will need meth at a minimum. I would get my hands on a factory air box or call Doug and Chris and see if they have a restrictor design for the AFE. I am betting they do or could.

 

Ok, the car is home. First, shout out to White Owl Performance, JusTune and Doug over at ECS. Sounds like they all rallied together to get the car tuned. Apparently there was some noise causing false knock. They zeroed it down to the header install done by a Chicago-based group which I do believe is no longer permitted on this site. Some items were not properly set in that install.

Second, a quick review on White Owl Performance for those in the KS area that need a performance shop. White Owl is a veteran owned and operated shop in Junction City. They communicate well when they have questions, but the progress is delivered in a surprise format on their Facebook page. Once they finish, they'll let you know. This is not a negative. I did enjoy stalking their page like a scorn ex-lover looking for the breadcrumbs of progress, and they didn't disappoint. When the car was finished, they reached out to let me know and tell me that they were posting the final videos on Facebook. The team there was solid. They spent a lot of time with me in the shop and walking me through both my own project and the other projects. They were also great about sharing knowledge.

Lastly, the car. We ended with what they felt was a "very conservative tune" at 560hp. I went in to check everything out and he gave me the warning that the boost came on fast. Apparently he was not seeing a lot of traction in his test drive. He had me take the car out to get a feel for it before settling the tab, and he was not wrong. The car is spin happy over half-throttle. Once she was on the highway and had some speed under her, the car pulls strong. I went with the quieter BOV, and the sounds it makes is glorious. I have the Soler controller installed, so I will go to a softer setting to see if that helps.

Unrelated to the build, I had a temporary limp mode (i think) last night where the car would only shift into 4th gear regardless of D or M position, and the CIL came on. I powered down and restarted, no limp mode, drove just fine. Going to pull the codes after work. App showed verbatim: "Engine and Transmission - Issue found in Engine Electrical System. You can drive a short distance with this indicator light on, but turn off like your radio, or you could drain the battery." I have an ongoing issue with the radio resetting constantly, and this is with both the Infotainment upgraded HMI and the original HMI. I replaced the battery a month and a half ago. Seems like a possible BCM issue. My question is, would a bad BCM also cause this kind of warning? I have an appointment on Monday to get this checked out.

 

Code was U0100, communication to PCM. Checked and tightened battery terminals, cleared code and drove it. Code did not return.