416 build
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 224
Likes: 63
From: East Texas
2025 C7 of the Year Finalist - Modified
416 build
I had a question for all you guys. I am currently building a 416 stroker and slapping an A&A SC kit on it. Doing port injection also. Builder says we should be at least 1000whp. Is it better to just tune it to about 800 whp than 1000+whp? I want this to be a street friendly car too. I just feel that 1000whp may just be too much to handle on the street. I just like to play around with cars on the street and I may occasionally go to the track here and there. It's not my daily and I am not trying to break stuff left and right also. I know tuning it for less power may seem crazy to some but I want it to be power I can put to the ground. Thoughts?
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 99
From: Dubai, UAE
What fuel will you be using? if it is pump 93 then you might be octane limited at around 800rwhp anyway. If you're running E then yeah 1000rwhp should be attainable
I do agree with you that 1000rwhp cannot be handled on the street. Stick to 800rwhp for now
I do agree with you that 1000rwhp cannot be handled on the street. Stick to 800rwhp for now
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 224
Likes: 63
From: East Texas
2025 C7 of the Year Finalist - Modified
More than likely Pump 93. There is no where local to get pump E. I could order it by the barrel but honestly I think I would only use E if I was going to take it to the drag strip.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 160
Likes: 44
From: SE NC
800whp is hard enough to put to the ground on the street. I am also running a 416" build, but went with chasing the higher hp number. Currently in the 1200whp range with a 2650 and for a street car she can get a little unruly. I'm currently in the process of ditching the magneride stuff for coilovers to allow more front to rear weight transfer and ditching my rear CCBs for a 15" conversion, Hopping the bigger tire will keep her happy on the street.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 769
Likes: 88
From: Ewa Beach Hawaii
Figured I'd chime in. I finished building my LT1 and upgraded all the Direct Injection (DI) fueling components. I went with XDI 65s and LPE Big Bore. I also added a flex fuel sensor because my ultimate goal is the 800 whp range with a V3 TI kit. Based on current logs, I believe the car is in the low 700 whp range. I just ordered a 3.47 pulley to bump up the boost a bit. The plan is to max out power on pump gas first, then use an E blend to reach the 800 whp target. I think 800 whp would be perfect for a fun street car. We have similar goals; I mainly use my car for street driving with some occasional roll races. I'm planning to upgrade to the YSI head unit later this year, but I think 1000 whp might be a bit much for street handling. Putting the power down effectively is what wins races.
Good luck with your build!
Good luck with your build!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 224
Likes: 63
From: East Texas
2025 C7 of the Year Finalist - Modified
If you don't mind me asking, did you upgrade your in tank fuel pump? Also, what was your motor build? My builder and I switched over to port injection with a fore triple pump setup. For my DI, I am going LT4 injectors and HPFP. I think 1030 injectors for the port injection. Shouldn't have any fuel issues and has the capability to run full E85. I have a fully forged bottom end (416 stroker) and LME ported heads, BTR ported intake, and a 103 TB. I am also going to be using the V3 Ti kit from A&A. Went with a triple disc Monster clutch but I didn't upgrade the transmission or diff. Those will be my weak points, well, and the axles. I am sure that will be my next project.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 769
Likes: 88
From: Ewa Beach Hawaii
If you don't mind me asking, did you upgrade your in tank fuel pump? Also, what was your motor build? My builder and I switched over to port injection with a fore triple pump setup. For my DI, I am going LT4 injectors and HPFP. I think 1030 injectors for the port injection. Shouldn't have any fuel issues and has the capability to run full E85. I have a fully forged bottom end (416 stroker) and LME ported heads, BTR ported intake, and a 103 TB. I am also going to be using the V3 Ti kit from A&A. Went with a triple disc Monster clutch but I didn't upgrade the transmission or diff. Those will be my weak points, well, and the axles. I am sure that will be my next project.
My build includes:
- MSD intake manifold
- Katech 103mm throttle body
- Ported LT1 head with upgraded intake and exhaust valves
- LME VVT kit
- LME valley cover
- C5R timing chain
- Johnson 2116 link bar lifters
Fueling might be okay, but I'm still considering adding a FORE system like yours.
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Drifting
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 1,859
Likes: 1,264
From: Houston
1000whp is too much for the street. With some radials can you manage it on the street? Absolutely!
However this is a sports car and for me I find less enjoyment driving on drag radials and trying to take any kind of turn at speed.
800whp is the sweet spot for this car to work well on street tires (like R888R).
When having my engine built I insisted on keeping the stock 376 to have a bit less torque. I will also have a boost controller. Goal for me was to have a car that can and will make 1000whp+, but will be turned down and live reliably at around ~800whp or however low I can put it. Anything above 800whp is only good for long straight, empty highways or the drag strip. The rest of the time you're feathering the throttle or disappointed you can't keep your foot down for more than 4s without doubling the speed limit anywhere you go.
However this is a sports car and for me I find less enjoyment driving on drag radials and trying to take any kind of turn at speed.
800whp is the sweet spot for this car to work well on street tires (like R888R).
When having my engine built I insisted on keeping the stock 376 to have a bit less torque. I will also have a boost controller. Goal for me was to have a car that can and will make 1000whp+, but will be turned down and live reliably at around ~800whp or however low I can put it. Anything above 800whp is only good for long straight, empty highways or the drag strip. The rest of the time you're feathering the throttle or disappointed you can't keep your foot down for more than 4s without doubling the speed limit anywhere you go.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 21,587
Likes: 1,614
From: GREER SC
Z06
I had a question for all you guys. I am currently building a 416 stroker and slapping an A&A SC kit on it. Doing port injection also. Builder says we should be at least 1000whp. Is it better to just tune it to about 800 whp than 1000+whp? I want this to be a street friendly car too. I just feel that 1000whp may just be too much to handle on the street. I just like to play around with cars on the street and I may occasionally go to the track here and there. It's not my daily and I am not trying to break stuff left and right also. I know tuning it for less power may seem crazy to some but I want it to be power I can put to the ground. Thoughts?
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 4,420
Likes: 1,428
From: Mesa Az
You better have a different intercooler than what comes with the A&A kit. At minimum convert it to a procharger one. We do have a large A2A offering that will be released in a few weeks, but we also have our A2W for those that really want to make some jam.
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Cordes Performance Racing aka "CPR"
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http://cordesperformanceracing.com/
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Cordes Performance Racing aka "CPR"
Owner of AZ's premier LSX/LTX motorsports shop
http://cordesperformanceracing.com/
www.facebook.com/cordesperformanceracing.com
joe@cordesperformanceracing.com
480-359-5914
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 769
Likes: 88
From: Ewa Beach Hawaii
You better have a different intercooler than what comes with the A&A kit. At minimum convert it to a procharger one. We do have a large A2A offering that will be released in a few weeks, but we also have our A2W for those that really want to make some jam.
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 4,420
Likes: 1,428
From: Mesa Az
A2W cores flow the absolute most and will have the lowest IAT's possible, plus with nothing in the way of the radiator it will run as cool as a NA car. Front mounts benefit are less weight, but they block a lot of frontal area.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 769
Likes: 88
From: Ewa Beach Hawaii
The A2A is a large vertical front mount, it will bridge the gap from those that need max power that our A2W provides. E85 will not help with cooling what so ever, it just is octane.
A2W cores flow the absolute most and will have the lowest IAT's possible, plus with nothing in the way of the radiator it will run as cool as a NA car. Front mounts benefit are less weight, but they block a lot of frontal area.
A2W cores flow the absolute most and will have the lowest IAT's possible, plus with nothing in the way of the radiator it will run as cool as a NA car. Front mounts benefit are less weight, but they block a lot of frontal area.
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 4,420
Likes: 1,428
From: Mesa Az
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 769
Likes: 88
From: Ewa Beach Hawaii
Sounds good definitely interested to see the combo for sure. As it seems I need to upgrade my intercooler setup.
Supporting Vendor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 4,420
Likes: 1,428
From: Mesa Az
Our A2W we do not sell to individuals, only for builds here and to select shops. The complete kit is $11k plus coating options for the intercooler, charge piping, bov's, couplers, trunk tank, heat exchanger, shroud, etc.