I have one sitting in the car for my tuner, he said not to install it until he does the tune.

After adjusting my lowering bolts I took it for a short spin. Engine won't rev about ~3k rpm, misses and sputters. Gonna be a long time waiting on my tune!

 

The only advice i can give you is hide all your garage door opens and cut the the power cord to the motor. Out of sight out of mind. This works for me. Might ease your anxiety.

 

I wanted to share some information that some of the auto stores employees just don’t know what they are doing and the naming convention if the tools for rent may be a little “off”.. I just pulled this last weekend for this same project. You can go to AutoZone and ask for a standard 3 jaw pulley puller and most of the guys know exactly what you need. On the occasion they do not they have their display of tools. Look for and tell them you need the Chrysler one. The Chrysler pulley is the pulley puller that was intended for it.

 

nice write up with pics, I have the same setup, went thru the same problems. A & A was a big help, when I went to install the intercooler, I discovered an auxiliary transmission cooler on my GS that was in the way. They left that part out of any instructions, and no written instructions, just a write up that was on my phone. Some of the pictures left a lot out.

 

Spent this past week driving a Penske moving van from Boise to NE Indiana relocating my mother in law. In the mean time the needed mount for Mighty Mouse can showed up so I can get that mounted. Fuel pump boosted to get mounted, will post pics and process of that. Need to get back in there and work with the lowering bolts some more.

Picking my wife up from the airport drove by the local Corvette club meeting and they were having a big show at the dealership. Wished I could have made that!

 

Finishing up. The kit came with the soft side of velcro strip to use as a padding/buffer if things rub. adhesive backed because well, there are spots that rub



Passenger side looking up against the cooling fan. I also added some above the A/C cooling line for insurance.


Drivers side against the radiator hose


Under the heat extractor. Took some effort to really tuck this pipe as low as it would go. If you do this rotate the top pipe down as far as you can in the silicone hoses before you tighten your clamps.


Next up was getting the catch can mounted. I originally ordered the radiator mount, but that is when the blow off valve goes. Ordered the drivers fender mount. Cheap from Mighty Mouse. Powder coated it this afternoon as well. Don't forget to wipe the powder underneath as that's where the grounds go!


Maybe this was a change, but the mount from MM is for a flat surface. My cars mounts aren't even. Front stands maybe 3/8" taller than the rear hole. Washers to shore it up.


Drivers fender mounting holes. Originally just grounds went here. More tugging at brake lines to get the catch can mounted.


Need to add something here. I specifically ordered a C7 dry sump kit from Mighty Mouse. Seemed to come with everything needed. Buddy who is an extremely sharp technician is coming over tomorrow to look at the kit and make sure I'm not on the wrong track plumbing this in. Seems they should have provided a 'T' and the instructions would benefit from a few additional pics. I could be wrong and will update this. Also zero specific vids on youtube regarding this. Due to go in for its tune Sept 4.

 

Your pics and explanation are awesome to see. Please post pics of your catch can plumbing when it’s done. I’m looking to do this soon and have been wondering about proper routing. Thanks again; fantastic thread!

 

Hello, sorry its been a hot minute. I will post pics, but a quick passing along what I've learned so far. The pipes used between connections use 5/16" fittings. I've rerouted some already but plan to reroute a few more when I do the catch can. I plan to eliminate any low pressure line feeding into the air intake introducing oil to the intake air, this should be effective in cutting down any coking.

I'll get a few pics posted and catch this up.

 

Finally getting around to posting results and impressions. First of all, WOW, this thing rips. When I picked it up my tuner said traction control no longer works. I thought he meant it failed or he broke it somehow. No, the car just powers through any sort of braking imposed by the computer to mitigate wheel spin. Trying to accelerate quickly is genuinely difficult. Tires spin at half throttle. through 3rd.

I'm a month or so into having the car back. Immediately I could not stop grinning. Took me a few miles before I really laid into it. Wheel spin is near constant. The tires will spin and hang the rear end out into 3rd gear at 75 mph with little effort. 4th gear went to 140 mph on the dyno. 1st gear will spin the tires unless you are ginger with it. I have 3 season Pilot's on the car. Will be posting another thread soon asking for opinions on new tires. It's liek driving with greasy tires unless you are at highway speeds where the rear doesn't break loose easily. Sticky tires will make all the differnce - I hope.

 

I have MICHELIN Pilot Super Sports, when hot they make all the difference in the world over a all season tire , with TC on, from a dead stop , I can roll into the throttle and once the tires grip, which is pretty fast , I can mash it to the floor , 2nd gear , 3 gear etc are scary but really no problem at all to manage . Like I stated above , they need to have heat in them .

With TC off ..... you will need drag radials to hook, especially in 1st and 2nd

Dave

 

I am near the end of the j stall (just need to go through and make sure everything is tight). I have my tune scheduled in a couple weeks. I have read EVERY write up in this install and read through very version of instructions I could find in the internet as there were some slight variations.

I have not seen a 3 Bar Map sensor ever mentioned. What is that? Where does it go? And what does it do? I really do not want to take it to the tuner and be told I need this part and have to wait another 3-4 weeks to tune the car.😭

 

A three bar MAP ( Manifold Air Pressure Sensor) sensor allows the ECM to measure vacuum and boost

Most use the Breakout Harness listed in the link below which also adds a IAT sensor ( Intake Air Tempature Sender) .

You plug the the 3 bar in place of your factory MAP sensor which is mounted on your intake manifold. You then plug the factory MAP into this harness and just securely wire tie it to the wire harness that runs down either side of the intake manifold.

Now the ECM can measure actual air outside preasure along with how much vacuum or boost is present inside the intake.

The IAT sensor can be mounted in the charge tube which would require a bung be welded in or I mounted mine on the intake manifold, just behind the throttle body . I drilled a hole and then used a tap to put some threads in the plastic that I could screw into . There is not much "meat" there so don't over tighten it but mine has been installed for over 3 years now and I have never had a problem
If you are that close to being finished, you should be talking to your tuner and asking him or her what they need to tune the car . Just explain what kit you have and what you have done , then stuff like this would come up My tuner was great with guiding me thru any "extra stuff" that I needed inorder to get a great tune ....
Dave
https://dsxtuning.com/products/iat-b...nt=30058995723

 

IN first picture below during the early stages of my install, you can see where you plug in the Breakout Harness in , and where my OEM MAP sensor is laying on the wire harness. This " wire mess was all tidied up after lol

In the picture below you will see where your OEM MAP sensor is located on the manifold , this is the one you replace with the 3 bar ( this picture was taken before I installed the blower )



Because I was able to load a start up tune first , I dont know if you need a start up tune so the car would run , you might want to ask your tuner if you should have him install it as I am not sure how it will run if you plug all this in without being tuned

Dave

 

Do NOT plug in the breakout harness to the MAP prior to bringing it to your tuner. I'm assuming here - that this enables the computer to see boost and not having a tune loaded with throw the car crazy?? Maybe risk engine damage? Either way, I was instructed not to install it prior to a tune for a blower

My car ran incredibly and painfully rich on the way to the tuners, I had a 40 minute drive. Ruined the plugs I'd just put in. New set was $115. If you have far to go maybe flat bed it? I would have doing it over again. My engine also would not rev beyond 2500/3k RPM, not that I was trying to gun it.

This is what I was told to order and worked perfectly. An item that should be provided in the kit to begin with. It replaces the MAP sensor in your factory intake tube. which is replaced by a tube provided in the kit. Only goes in one way, can't screw it up. I installed the MAP sensor itself and left the Y harness on the passenger seat for my tuner to install.
Baro Breakout Harness for Gen V – DSX Tuning.

Todd

 

I appreciate the quick replies, the detailed explanations and the links provided. I will have one ready and available for my tuner but won’t install until after he tunes or says to install.

I am lucky because my brother in law races and is going to let me use one of the trailers to take the car to the tuner so I don’t have to drive it and worry about it.

Again, I appreciate the quick responses.

 

Let us know how you end up!

 

Yes , make sure u let us know ... and a picture of the smile on your face the first time you drive idrive would be great also 😀
Dave