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Mild2Wild on a C7

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Old 10-31-2016, 09:47 AM
  #21  
eboggs_jkvl
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Originally Posted by JerryU
Does the remote relay mount inside or outside the front fuse panel?
Looks to me like you use the add-a-circuit fuse adapter to get the power from the fuse box, hook up the ground and probably velcro or double side tape the box to the inside of the engine bay as it is too big to fit inside of the fuse box. Code the remote FOB to a button on the Homelink visor and you're done.

Elmer

Last edited by eboggs_jkvl; 10-31-2016 at 09:48 AM.
Old 10-31-2016, 10:00 AM
  #22  
JerryU
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Originally Posted by eboggs_jkvl
Looks to me like you use the add-a-circuit fuse adapter to get the power from the fuse box, hook up the ground and probably velcro or double side tape the box to the inside of the engine bay as it is too big to fit inside of the fuse box. Code the remote FOB to a button on the Homelink visor and you're done.

Elmer
Sounds simple but have been following for 3 years and it's NOT.
This is a good, but long Thread, that discusses what was tried, what didn't work and finally what does:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ob-how-to.html
Old 10-31-2016, 10:07 AM
  #23  
Foosh
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Elmer,

If that's the case, it's definitely a nice alternative to pulling the fuse.
Old 10-31-2016, 10:27 AM
  #24  
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The old M2W ran off vacuum from the engine. This new NPP system is electronically controlled. All that is needed is to open or close the circuit on the NPP fuse. It appears that is all this does. The FOB/HomeLink option is the same as open/closing the fuse circuit for the NPP fuse just putting a different on/off switch in the circuit.

As always, I will report back exactly what the hell happens in a thread. This is sure simpler than building the circuit board that was given as the option for a remote control of the NPP fuse.

Elmer

Last edited by eboggs_jkvl; 10-31-2016 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 10-31-2016, 10:37 AM
  #25  
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Elmer,

Please do report back.

I have a '14, which has a simpler menu than later models for controlling the NPP valves. On 14s, the only choices in the center screen setting (driver preferences) menu are "OFF" and "MODE DEPENDENT." I have mine "OFF," but if this works, I'd rather go back to "MODE DEPENDENT" and use this.
Old 10-31-2016, 12:47 PM
  #26  
Gio's C7
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Originally Posted by Foosh
Elmer,

Please do report back.

I have a '14, which has a simpler menu than later models for controlling the NPP valves. On 14s, the only choices in the center screen setting (driver preferences) menu are "OFF" and "MODE DEPENDENT." I have mine "OFF," but if this works, I'd rather go back to "MODE DEPENDENT" and use this.
Same here!
Old 10-31-2016, 05:08 PM
  #27  
REZ1
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What would be the plus in spending $75.00 over selecting driver mode or removing a
fuse.?
Old 10-31-2016, 05:30 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by REZ1
What would be the plus in spending $75.00 over selecting driver mode or removing a
fuse.?
Even in Track Mode the valves close when cruising (a good thing IMO so I'm happy with Track or Sport settings.)

Removing the fuse creates a drone at certain highway speeds. Couldn't tolerate it in my C6, even with radio playing fairly loud, so I would flip the switch I installed to close the butterflys.

Not as easy to add a switch or a remote relay with the C7 so a kit may be worth the price if you don't want a DIY solution outlined in this Thread: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ob-how-to.html

Last edited by JerryU; 10-31-2016 at 05:56 PM.
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Old 10-31-2016, 05:41 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by eboggs_jkvl
....This is sure simpler than building the circuit board that was given as the option for a remote control of the NPP fuse...Elmer
The circuit board is already built. Just connect a few wires and you're done.
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Old 10-31-2016, 06:01 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by REZ1
What would be the plus in spending $75.00 over selecting driver mode or removing a
fuse.?
Even when "loud" is selected in a mode, they still close at certain rpms. Only pulling the fuse completely prevents closure. The potential advantage of this, is that you don't have to stop, raise the hood and reinsert a fuse if you'd like quiet.

Obviously, mode control no longer works w/ the fuse pulled.
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Old 10-31-2016, 06:06 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Skidplate
The circuit board is already built. Just connect a few wires and you're done.
Yep the instructions and pics on the your Thread I referenced are excellent. It also makes a neat install. Your instructions on how to set a Home Link button are also excellent, no need to mount a remote. I did not get an answer to my question but from the pics it looks like the $75 device mounts outside the fuse box (??)

I recall the many Threads that lead up to that design that did not work! Good job.

Last edited by JerryU; 10-31-2016 at 06:07 PM.
Old 10-31-2016, 06:18 PM
  #32  
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Does anyone know if the fuse to be pulled changed on the Grand Sport 2017s? If yes, which fuse is it that needs to be pulled?
Old 10-31-2016, 06:39 PM
  #33  
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# 42..............
Dfa
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Old 10-31-2016, 09:06 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by DFA
# 42..............
Dfa
#42 in a 2015 and up


It's #41 in the 2014


Elmer
Old 10-31-2016, 09:31 PM
  #35  
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This cannot be used to retrofit a NPP to a non NPP C7 unfortunately. To do that the only options you have are the Akrapovic adapter to add the mode controlled functionality or for the true on/off switch capability you have to build one of Theta's NPP retrofit circuit boards...
Old 10-31-2016, 10:00 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by JerryU
... I did not get an answer to my question but from the pics it looks like the $75 device mounts outside the fuse box (??)
...
l'm not sure where the $75 figure is coming from. I built one of these, thanks to the great write up, and my total spend was less than $30 (I already had a spade lug and some shrink tubing). As explained in the thread, if you cut down the plastic box, and use the relay leg for your ground, the whole thing fits entirely inside the fuse box. And, it can be removed in about 30 seconds, without a trace.

It's really an easy build, and it works great.

Last edited by PJay; 10-31-2016 at 10:03 PM.
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:38 PM
  #37  
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The last time I checked businesses need to make a profit, and there's time and manufacturing costs involved, not just materials.

To the vast majority, it's way easier to pay the extra $45 and have a guarantee that it will work, rather than figuring out how to DIY and then run around buying all the supplies. So you might save the cost of one fuel fill doing it yourself.

It's not much different than buying your vegetables at the grocery store or farmer's market as opposed to planting and tending to the seeds yourself.

Last edited by Foosh; 10-31-2016 at 11:41 PM.

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Old 11-01-2016, 01:51 AM
  #38  
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Actually, I really meant that I didn't know where the $75 was coming from. I thought the thread was in reference to the DIY mod, and didn't see the link that RPI posted.

Last edited by PJay; 11-01-2016 at 01:51 AM.
Old 11-01-2016, 07:08 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by PJay
l'm not sure where the $75 figure is coming from. I built one of these, thanks to the great write up, and my total spend was less than $30 (I already had a spade lug and some shrink tubing).
Originally Posted by PJay
Actually, I really meant that I didn't know where the $75 was coming from. I thought the thread was in reference to the DIY mod, and didn't see the link that RPI posted.
In my post I was referring to the purchase price. Considering the manufacturer had to select a remote relay that was known to work (others have tried and they did not work consistently with the remote from the cabin) they can cost from $15 to $20 and depending on where you purchase an Add-A-Circuit that can cost $10+, the "no mod purchase approach" is worth the price. Especially for those that are not good "DIYers" or are not comfortable messing with electrical wiring.

Last edited by JerryU; 11-01-2016 at 09:13 AM.
Old 11-01-2016, 01:42 PM
  #40  
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Anyone know it the switch remembers it's on/off state when the car is shut off? no big deal, just interested


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