I'm considering having Xpel wrap installed on the entire front end, but I'm somewhat concerned about what happens to the paint after the car has spent 7-10 years in the sun. I can see how there's not a problem when the wrap is removed from a recent installation, as might be done for demonstration purposes, but does anyone have experience with removing Xpel or any other wrap after it has spent some time on the car?

 

Just pulled the 3M wrap off my 2010 GS and the front end looks perfect. I will say my car was stored in a garage for its time. I'm not sure if stored outside would make a difference.

 

If it's like any of the wraps they have used on Motorhomes you have a less than 50% chance of it coming off without removing a little to a lot of paint. A lot would depend on the hours you spend removing it with a heat gun and plastic scraper. But then again without it you may need a paint job anyway. Biggest problems on Motorhomes have been old forming at the edges and then getting under the film.

 

i have the same concern as i keep cars for a long time. The warranty for xpel is 10 years, but not sure about the removal process or damage it would cause in 7-10 years....

 

Xpel is a quality wrap and company - do you really think they would make something and not take this into consideration?

Google 'em and call em....

 

All the fuss! I'm just going to let the paint hang out in the wind. My C6 had two stone chips after almost eight years. Touch up solved the problem, almost invisible. If things get real bad, I will have the abrasion reprinted.

 

Xpel is too new to know for sure. One would hope this like other good ppf would come off without paint damage. That said 10 years of sun I'm not sure i would use ppf as your paint that is not protected will fade some compared to that with Xpel

 

I've removed xpel, ventureshield, & scotchgard all of them are about the same. Dunno about 7 year old ppf but, I make sure the body & paint is warm as well as the ppf. Go slow start on a corner pick with clean hands & ALWAYS remove the film in a direction parallel with the paint & opposite direction the ppf would be applied. In other words do not pull up & away from the vehicle. Also use lots of slip solution & a little extra drops shampoo helps a bit in the solution. Be careful around sharp corners or high spot on the body, the paint is thinnest & most weak a those point. If the ppf makes a ripping sound your going to fast. It takes a looonggg time to remove.

Wormwood

 

Thx to all. I'm having a garage built, but it will sit out in the sun at work, so UV is a concern. I think I'll have it installed and, when it's time to go, have the installer remove the old film and replace it with a new one, assuming the paint fading isn't too much of an issue.

 

i have read and have been told by numerous installers that if you keep your car waxed, you will not notice any type of paint fade difference in the covered vs not covered portions of your paint. I thought you were asking if it was easy to take off after 7-10 years. that is what i am worried about. don't want it to rip the paint off.

 

Another hint to decrease the amount of force applied to remove the material is to LIGHTLY score the xpel surface with a sharp razor knife into narrow strips, and pull it away slowly. Do NOT let the blade go through to the paint. If you hear a kind of small ripping sound (like a skate on ice), that is the paint -- not good.

 

Removing from motorhomes and a car with factory paint are two totally different animals. Motorhomes are painted much like a car would be in a body shop and are barely cured when the film is put on at the "factory". The paint being this fresh when the film is applied makes it very likely that removing the film will pull paint with it.

The processes used on modern cars on the other hand ensure that the paint is fully cured before the car ever leaves the assembly line. The chances of pulling factory applied paint while removing film (assuming the correct removal method is being used) is so slim it's statistically irrelevant.

As for the paint matching when it is removed, the biggest challenge you have is keeping the rest of your car's paint glossy. The film will allow UV to pass through it, which allows the paint underneath to fade at the same rate as the exposed areas. However, the film acts as a fantastic wax or sealant in protecting the paint underneath from oxidation etc. So, when the film is removed, the paint underneath will be perfectly shiny just as it was when it was new. If you didn't take care of the rest of the car very well throughout the years, the parts that were covered will outshine the rest.

Just to clarify what Wormwood was saying, the film should be stretched off. So once you get a corner started, you pull parallel to the paint away from the rest of the film causing it to stretch and release. Do not pull the film straight up or over the top of itself. This puts more stress on the paint and will also almost certainly leave a ton of adhesive on the paint once the film is off. I think we are saying the same thing, but wanted to clarify to make sure. Also, the best thing to use to heat the film is a steamer. This ensures the correct temperature is reached and makes it impossible to overheat the adhesive. If the adhesive is overheated, it becomes even harder to remove.

Hope this helps.