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This is a long post so if you are not going to install under guards on your car don't waste your time reading this. Sorry about the pictures as this is the best I could do with the car 8 inches off the ground. I drove the car up on ramps and removed the 7 torque head screws that are in the way. These screws don't come out easy as I found out the hard way when I broke one off. Use a #25 torque head bit to remove these. Seven on each side. I would back them out a ways and apply never seize and tighten them up and back them out again until they came out. Take your time as I didn't and snapped one off and then I had to drill it out and re-tap it. When you get all seven of them out there is a bolt in the front that comes out that holds the front of the under guard in place. Install the under guard with seven bolts . They will line up with the threaded holes of the torque head screws you removed. They didn't send me enough so I had to buy some. Don't tighten because the front bolt hole my not line up. Mine didn't and I had to re-drill it. When all the holes line up tighten up the bolts. I hope this helps.
Looks good. I was thinking of doing this myself. This is probably a dumb thought but I wonder if these mess up the aerodynamics under the car? If they did it would likely be completely irrelevant but I wondered about this.
Looks good. I was thinking of doing this myself. This is probably a dumb thought but I wonder if these mess up the aerodynamics under the car? If they did it would likely be completely irrelevant but I wondered about this.
I wouldn't know about aerodynamics but they sure help to protect the bottom of your car. I have installed these on my c5 and my c6's the installation on the c7 was the hardest but I wouldn't be without them.
looks nice....Ive got the pucks...for me the aerodynamics are not important as long as it's does not set up a whistle or drone of some sort...I'm sure the mfr has tested that....
Hope this doesn't seem like a silly or obvious question, but wouldn't you want the underguard to have countersunk bolt holes? Given what's going to happen to those pieces, maybe at high speeds, you're almost certainly looking at some sheared-off bolt heads.
Designing/building them right may have required an extra dollar or two, but would be a lot better IMHO.
What are these for? Protection when being lifted? Why not just use pucks? I can't think of any other time the underneath of the car would be contacted. Just curious.
Hope this doesn't seem like a silly or obvious question, but wouldn't you want the underguard to have countersunk bolt holes? Given what's going to happen to those pieces, maybe at high speeds, you're almost certainly looking at some sheared-off bolt heads.
Designing/building them right may have required an extra dollar or two, but would be a lot better IMHO.
What are these for? Protection when being lifted? Why not just use pucks? I can't think of any other time the underneath of the car would be contacted. Just curious.
Hope this doesn't seem like a silly or obvious question, but wouldn't you want the underguard to have countersunk bolt holes? Given what's going to happen to those pieces, maybe at high speeds, you're almost certainly looking at some sheared-off bolt heads.
Designing/building them right may have required an extra dollar or two, but would be a lot better IMHO.
What are these for? Protection when being lifted? Why not just use pucks? I can't think of any other time the underneath of the car would be contacted. Just curious.
When you do this with your Corvette:
... they help to protect the bottom side of the rocker panels.
... they help to protect the bottom side of the rocker panels.
It helps protect the car when someone else it trying to lift the vette for service. Too many stores of tire shops and various service shops that have lifted a vette in an incorrect location or without pucks only to cause some damage that sometimes goes unseen for a period of time.
The under-guard rails will be going on my upcoming C7, but only with flush mount or recessed mounting for the screws/bolts.
Hope this doesn't seem like a silly or obvious question, but wouldn't you want the underguard to have countersunk bolt holes? Given what's going to happen to those pieces, maybe at high speeds, you're almost certainly looking at some sheared-off bolt heads.
Designing/building them right may have required an extra dollar or two, but would be a lot better IMHO.
The ones I have installed on myc5 and c6 were countersunk. I don't know why they didn't do that with these. I don't think that eighth inch of the bolt head will make that much difference, If it does I will take them off and countersink them. As for the question of why install them remember that question when you get your car back from an oil change or tire change and you find the bottom of your car damaged. How about when you see something in the road like a shredded tire and you can't stop. These under guards are a pretty cheap way to protect the bottom of your car. I put the pictures and instruction in because the instructions that came with them weren't very good.
It helps protect the car when someone else it trying to lift the vette for service. Too many stores of tire shops and various service shops that have lifted a vette in an incorrect location or without pucks only to cause some damage that sometimes goes unseen for a period of time.
The under-guard rails will be going on my upcoming C7, but only with flush mount or recessed mounting for the screws/bolts.
They are made out of aluminum and a 1/2 drill bit would get them countersunk. I probably should have done that on mine. I started using them when I had tires put on first Corvette and it came back with the fiberglass around the lift points busted because they didn't have the pucks. This is the fourth set I have installed.
This is a long post so if you are not going to install under guards on your car don't waste your time reading this. Sorry about the pictures as this is the best I could do with the car 8 inches off the ground. I drove the car up on ramps and removed the 7 torque head screws that are in the way. These screws don't come out easy as I found out the hard way when I broke one off. Use a #25 torque head bit to remove these. Seven on each side. I would back them out a ways and apply never seize and tighten them up and back them out again until they came out. Take your time as I didn't and snapped one off and then I had to drill it out and re-tap it. When you get all seven of them out there is a bolt in the front that comes out that holds the front of the under guard in place. Install the under guard with seven bolts . They will line up with the threaded holes of the torque head screws you removed. They didn't send me enough so I had to buy some. Don't tighten because the front bolt hole my not line up. Mine didn't and I had to re-drill it. When all the holes line up tighten up the bolts. I hope this helps.
Some one was asking for pictures of installed underguards. Go to the top of this page.
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