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The wheel was a snap. Disconnected the negative cable. Used a long thin Allen head to push and wiggle until the air bag came loose. Did the same thing on the other side. you have to fidget with it a bit. One that comes off, disconnect the 3 cables going to the bag. There is also the main connection at the top of the column you need to unplug.
I used a 1/2" DeWalt 18v impact driver with a T-50 bit and it came out easily. Pushed the 2 air bag lines through the wheel, put the wheel back on and tightened the T-50. Put the 3 connectors back on the airbag and snapped it back down.
Reconnected the negative terminal and re-indexed the windows and I was all set.
Just finished doing mine. The toughest part for me was the airbag. After seeing it off I realized how easy it was.
Your description was spot on as well as the OP. -Thx
Just wanted to post some pics of my wheel install. Caravaggio wheel is of excellent quality, really good stuff. I'm not at all mechanically inclined but managed to get this done myself. If you have the right tools this is about a 30 minute job start to finish. If you're like me and need to run to buy new tools it can take longer.
1. Disconnect battery (two 10mm nuts on the negative terminal)
2. Remove airbag. There are two small holes on the underside of the wheel, I inserted a T14 screwdriver and you can see the airboag sort of pop out. Once you put the screwdriver in either side the airbag pulls out easily. You'll have to unplug a total of three connectors. one black, one yellow and one green. The yellow and green connectors have clips that pop up and allow you to unplug them.
3. Unplug large black connection at the back of the wheel.
4. Remove the one bolt holding the steering wheel on. This is a T50 Torx bolt and you will not get this off without an impact driver. I nearly gave myself an hernia trying to use a standard manual breaker bar...it's not happening. The wheel turns and it's just not coming loose. I ended up buying a 1/2 drive Dewalt impact driver and even that struggled to break the nut loose. Once you break it free it comes right out.
5. Slowly remove the wheel and fish the airbag connectors out the rear of the wheel. I then taped the "clock spring" as it's called to the steering column so as not to lose the index. Some others have said this is an issue in the past.
6. Install the new wheel and reconnect everything you disconnected.
*note there are two different part numbers I belive for the wheels, one for a manual P/N 23167317 and one for the auto P/N 23167324. The difference is what paddles are on the wheel. The 317 wheel comes with Rev Match paddles and the 324 wheel comes with "+" and "-" signs for shifting. I was originally concerned that the wiring would be different, but a comparison shows the harness is the same for both wheels (P/N 24119835D). I had to make a quick swap of the paddles as mine came with the manual configuration, but it's easy to do once you remove the aluminum trim piece.
7. Reconnect battery and you're all set.
I used the carbon fiber trim piece as I plan to have the dash swapped when the supply of them isn't so thin.
***Many thanks to Brian (Motohead279) and Andrew6 for the tips along the way!***
Not difficult to do except .. I CAN'T LOOSEN THE STEERING WHEEL BOLT!!!!! I tried ratchet with the T50, 18 V dewalt impact gun, electric 15 amp impact gun, extension on the ratchet, the bolt will not budge.I don't want to chance and strip the bolt. Looks like I'm going to the dealer with this. I think they accidentally welded my bolt.
Not difficult to do except .. I CAN'T LOOSEN THE STEERING WHEEL BOLT!!!!! I tried ratchet with the T50, 18 V dewalt impact gun, electric 15 amp impact gun, extension on the ratchet, the bolt will not budge.I don't want to chance and strip the bolt. Looks like I'm going to the dealer with this. I think they accidentally welded my bolt.
screw the dealer, you are talking about a bolt, any car shop, midas, etc has an air gunsystem - it's gonna take a big air wrench to do it , they are everywhere...
I have screwed myself. My bolt stripped as I was trying to remove it.
Other than welding on a nut looks like my only option is to buy a new column. For sake of argument is it a left hand thread or right hand thread.
If I whent the wrong way than why did it start moving.
I have screwed myself. My bolt stripped as I was trying to remove it.
Other than welding on a nut looks like my only option is to buy a new column. For sake of argument is it a left hand thread or right hand thread.
If I whent the wrong way than why did it start moving.
This has happened to me before with other torx bolts. I found it was because I was using cheap torx bits. When it comes to torx bits, I buy the best now. Have not had an issue since.
I'm sure Cultrag can get you a new bolt. Just use their page and ask for a quote. Tell them what you need and your VIN and they will find the right part.
I just ordered a replacement clock spring as I screwed that up during my wheel install.
4. Remove the one bolt holding the steering wheel on. This is a T50 Torx bolt and you will not get this off without an impact driver. I nearly gave myself an hernia trying to use a standard manual breaker bar...it's not happening. The wheel turns and it's just not coming loose. I ended up buying a 1/2 drive Dewalt impact driver and even that struggled to break the nut loose. Once you break it free it comes right out.
Reading around, I see the T50 bolt was secured from the factory to 22ft/lb with some threadlocker. Anybody know what color Loctite the factory used?
I'm ready to swap wheels soon and I'm wondering what threadlocker I should apply when I reinstall. I have some Blue 242, (medium strength), not sure if that would be the one?
Reading around, I see the T50 bolt was secured from the factory to 22ft/lb with some threadlocker. Anybody know what color Loctite the factory used?
I'm ready to swap wheels soon and I'm wondering what threadlocker I should apply when I reinstall. I have some Blue 242, (medium strength), not sure if that would be the one?
It's the Blue locktite on the bolt and at 22ft lbs wonder why so many people have issues getting it off.
I did mine a month ago but just finished as I was waiting on the painted parts.
I just use those seat towels to protect the seats when I work on the interior.
Im starting my swap tomorrow. What is this clock spring?? Any pics?
You'll see the clock spring as you ease the wheel off. I recommend to tape it into place while you work. The few seconds it takes (and some would call it overkill) could save you hours of headache later on.
1. Disconnect battery (two 10mm nuts on the negative terminal)
I'm starting my swap this morning. I don't know electronics very well... can someone explain or PM why disconnecting only the negative is sufficient? Shouldn't I disconnect both terminals?
Will post results/pics of my wheel swap this afternoon.
I'm starting my swap this morning. I don't know electronics very well... can someone explain or PM why disconnecting only the negative is sufficient? Shouldn't I disconnect both terminals?
Will post results/pics of my wheel swap this afternoon.
You have to remove the ground because you are disconnecting the air bag. You don't want power going to that while disconnecting . At best you may get a CEL that only a dealer can clear . At worst you could have the airbag deploy which would make for a bad day.
As to why the negative and not the positive, it's a safety issue. If you happen to touch the ground to another ground, no big deal, pull the positive and accidentally hit the ground and could be another bad day.
Removing the negative breaks the circuit and that is all that is needed.
I couldn't get the air bag to come out. How hard are you guys pressing into the holes on the side of the wheel? I encountered a rubbery resistance rather than metal or plastic clips. I was afraid I was going to pierce something.
I couldn't get the air bag to come out. How hard are you guys pressing into the holes on the side of the wheel? I encountered a rubbery resistance rather than metal or plastic clips. I was afraid I was going to pierce something.
You need to push pretty hard. There are metal spring clips that secure the airbag to the wheel. You are pushing them inward to release from the wheel. You should see the side of the airbag spring forward once you get the spring clip pushed in.
Once you remove the airbag once, it's pretty easy the next time you need/want to remove it.
I picked up a 2016 "D" Steering Wheel and swapped it out in my '15 today. Followed the instructions and was fairly straightforward with no real issues.
I was able to easily loosen the torx screw with a standard ratchet. One hand on the wheel and one hand on the ratchet. I was expecting a struggle, but it came loose with no drama. Looking at the screw there is no thread locker, so maybe that explains the ease of removal.
After reconnecting the battery I did not get the re-index windows message. The only settings I noticed that were "lost" were the HUD position on the windshield, and the DIC display was no longer linked to the drive mode. Both were easily reset back to my preferences. Also, the outside temperature was not displaying on the infotainment screen. Something I was puzzling over how that could have been affected during my test drive. However, when I started up the car a second time after reconnecting the battery, the temperature display came back and all is well.
Thanks for posting the original instructions, and the follow-up discussion as well!
For those that were successful getting the T50 torx bolt out with an impact driver - what was the FT-LB rating on your impact driver?
I attempted it tonight with a DeWalt 20v cordless model that's rated at 150 ft-lb and it wouldn't budge!
I was afraid of putting too big an impact on it and damaging the bolt and am wondering how much more I need to escalate. Tried a breaker bar with someone else stabilizing the wheel too and that was a total fail as well.
For those that were successful getting the T50 torx bolt out with an impact driver - what was the FT-LB rating on your impact driver?
I attempted it tonight with a DeWalt 20v cordless model that's rated at 150 ft-lb and it wouldn't budge!
I was afraid of putting too big an impact on it and damaging the bolt and am wondering how much more I need to escalate. Tried a breaker bar with someone else stabilizing the wheel too and that was a total fail as well.
as usual, BG is putting a ton of Loctite on some steering bolts and none on others...take it to any auto service facility and have them use the air wrench system they have...
02-28-2015, 11:59 PM
