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I'm looking at getting a covered trailer for hauling my c7. I'm considering an enclosed 16' v-nose. Has anyone hauled a c7 in a trailer this size? Its either the 16' or the 18' for the next size up.
The C7 is 177" long or 14' 9" long. You will need an enclosed trailer longer than 16 or 18 feet. You will need extra space to be able to position the car to get it tied down and to get the correct hitch weight for your toe vehicle. I personally wouldn't buy a trailer less than 24 feet and would probably go 26. A v-nose helps with shorter lengths. Also beware of wheel well heights inside which can interfere with door opening. It's no fun squirming out a window or out the rear hatch in order to get out of the car. A winch is the way to go. While I have not hauled a C7 these are common issues. I'm sure others can give more details.
I'm looking at getting a covered trailer for hauling my c7. I'm considering an enclosed 16' v-nose. Has anyone hauled a c7 in a trailer this size? Its either the 16' or the 18' for the next size up.
I've owned many boat, snowmobile, PWC, travel, and car trailers. This may sound like a wise azz comment, but I am serious. On the outside, you want the smallest trailer available. On the inside, you want the biggest available!
Err on too big as opposed to too small.
And if you want to really get into controversy, steel vs aluminum! Me, I'll take aluminum any day. I hate rust! Admittedly, it takes more aluminum to be equally strong. And aluminum can be fragile compared to steel. Stay with a quality manufacturer.
Axles? More is not better. I'd take a 2-axle over a 3 axle any day, unless the trailer is HUGE. Single axle a no-go for the weight of a Corvette.
Brakes? Yes! Every axle. On a car trailer, electric brakes would be my preference. Brake controller? Several good ones. Tekonsha's incredible customer support makes me seriously biased! Quality controller and absolutely super support.
For a Corvette, seriously understand what it takes to clear the underneath of the car when loading the trailer. LONG ramps help a lot. Hydraulic tilt beds are nice, but that and enclosed are likely mutually exclusive. Maybe an open tilt bed with a v-nose shield in front?
Tie down both the front and rear of the towed vehicle. Chock/wheel stops are NOT adequate alone...use quality binders or tow straps. Me? 4 minimum! 2 pull forward and down, 2 pull rear ward and down.
Use an equalizer hitch unless the tow vehicle and hitch are rated for otherwise.
Buying new? LED lights are reasonably priced and far superior to incandescent. A few extra can not hurt, nor can approved reflective tape.
Anyway, enough of my babble. Post/PM if you think I can be of help.
IMO a 20' trailer is the absolute smallest I would get. I don't think a C7 will fit in a 16' V-nose (and I'm not a fan of the V-nose trailers anyway).
Also, a driver's side door is a HUGE advantage in addition to the standard passenger side front "man door". With an enclosed, you're going to have at least a ~7' door (with flip out) for a ramp, so there should be no issues with clearance, but a beaver-tailed floor is even better and look for low-profile wheelwells. Make sure it's got interior lights and rear spots are great for loading at night. At a minimum, make sure it has 16" OC floor and wall framing/cross-members, roof bows and a single piece roof. At least 3/4" plywood flooring with heavy duty D-rings for tie down. As far as dressing out the interior, that depends on what you are doing with it (car shows, track, etc.).
I have a 24' United UXT in NJ (and an 18' Aluma tilt-bed in Florida):
It's a decent trailer, plenty of room and reasonably priced.
S.
I'm looking at getting a covered trailer for hauling my c7. I'm considering an enclosed 16' v-nose. Has anyone hauled a c7 in a trailer this size? Its either the 16' or the 18' for the next size up.
I took delivery at The NCM 02/10/14 and I hauled my C-7 back to East Tennessee. The trailer was 24 foot long which was plenty long enough but just barely wide enough. I'll included a couple of pictures for you to get an idea, The trailer is in the background of the first pic.
Had to some out of the back hatch because of the fender wells. Try to find something with plenty of hooks in the floor sure will make tying it down a lot easier.
pretty tight - have to winch it in or ur stuck in the car
Take the top out. That's how I get in and out of my car when I tow it. I use MAC straps with the t hooks to go in the shipping slots in the front. I use wheel straps in the back as the t hooks are almost impossible to get to.
I have their open trailer and with the removable fenders it is a cinch to get out of the car. They have an open trailer that has an cover for the whole trailer, kinda of like the semis that have cloth sides.
I rented a 8.5' X 20' enclosed trailer and it worked fine had plenty of room. Used 2 axle straps in front and 1 in the back to secure car. Never moved in 375 miles of I-10. I was worried but everything worked out fine. Removed the top to get in and out of car. Drop tailgate on trailer worked fine car didn't drag just make sure and watch mirrors going past cables on doors, just fold them in.
I was wondering about the same thing - do you use the "Forged Mini T-Hook (340003)" to connect to the front? Where are the shipping slots in the front and the back or are there hooks in the back?
Thanks!
Originally Posted by VatorMan
Take the top out. That's how I get in and out of my car when I tow it. I use MAC straps with the t hooks to go in the shipping slots in the front. I use wheel straps in the back as the t hooks are almost impossible to get to.
I was wondering about the same thing - do you use the "Forged Mini T-Hook (340003)" to connect to the front? Where are the shipping slots in the front and the back or are there hooks in the back?
Thanks!
Shipping slots are the same slots you put your pucks in. They are in the frame rails. Typically you can't reach the rear slots unless you are thin as a stick so I use wheel straps. No,I don't cross my straps in the back. I let my wife help me once. Once. lol
Last edited by VatorMan; Mar 23, 2014 at 08:42 PM.
IMO a 20' trailer is the absolute smallest I would get. I don't think a C7 will fit in a 16' V-nose (and I'm not a fan of the V-nose trailers anyway). Also, a driver's side door is a HUGE advantage in addition to the standard passenger side front "man door". With an enclosed, you're going to have at least a ~7' door (with flip out) for a ramp, so there should be no issues with clearance, but a beaver-tailed floor is even better and look for low-profile wheelwells. Make sure it's got interior lights and rear spots are great for loading at night. At a minimum, make sure it has 16" OC floor and wall framing/cross-members, roof bows and a single piece roof. At least 3/4" plywood flooring with heavy duty D-rings for tie down. As far as dressing out the interior, that depends on what you are doing with it (car shows, track, etc.). I have a 24' United UXT in NJ (and an 18' Aluma tilt-bed in Florida): It's a decent trailer, plenty of room and reasonably priced. S.
That is a big trailer! What is the tow weight of your truck?
I have a Montrose all aluminum enclosed trailer. A little different design, but lots of easy access, 2050#, 20' length, 94" wide inside, 8.5" from floor to top of fender, 10' ramps, and they custom build to any height (within reason). I don't have a C7 (yet) so I don't know how it would fit.
I'm looking at getting a covered trailer for hauling my c7. I'm considering an enclosed 16' v-nose. Has anyone hauled a c7 in a trailer this size? Its either the 16' or the 18' for the next size up.
I rented UHaul open trailer $120.00 to haul my C7 home, worked great...
I have a Montrose all aluminum enclosed trailer. A little different design, but lots of easy access, 2050#, 20' length, 94" wide inside, 8.5" from floor to top of fender, 10' ramps, and they custom build to any height (within reason). I don't have a C7 (yet) so I don't know how it would fit.
I'm going to really consider this trailer when I get ready to purchase one!!
I have a 20' enclosed, and it's the absolute smallest enclosed I would recommend going with.
You can see mine in the pics below (the C7 fits exactly the same as the ZR1), and it's 16' 4" to where it starts to "V" down, and 20' 4" to the tip of the V, but the winch and battery take up almost 2' of that space. It still leaves a little bit of room for some lightweight track support stuff.
Like Snorman said, I find the "escape door" on the left a really great feature. I have a winch, but I can just open the door to easily get in or out of the car if I drive it in or out of the trailer.
In the second picture you might be able to make out a bar going across. Below that is a tire rack, and the bar goes through the hubs.
My trailer is aluminum and weighs 2500 lbs. With a 3500 lb car, 225 lbs of spare wheels/tires, and a 100 lbs or so of some track support junk, it's up around 6400 lbs or so. Loaded up it has a 725-750 lb tongue weight.
Trailering a C7
