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Curious what people are seeing for oil pressure. At hot idle its around 25-30psi and really takes some RPM for it to climb above 40psi. Thats the simulated gauge on the sport dash.
Also when warming up, before the red line segments disappear the oil pressure jumps from 30 to 60psi with the rpm at a steady 1500 or so. I'm thinking its a flaky sender but its odd it only does it when the oil is below 180 degrees or so.
I know these have a solenoid to control oil pressure on the oil pump but the gauge jumps around so quick I dont think its the oil pressure control valve doing it. Once it warms up it wont jump around, but every morning it does for a few minutes. Could be just a programming glitch or something as well, just wondering if I'm the only one.
25-30 sounds about right , that's what I see . I also noticed before the oil is fully warm the pressure jumps up and down from about 30 to 50 in a rhythmic pattern.
So, bottom line, mine does what yours does...
I've observed as low as 23 psi at idle and 30-32 psi at 1500 rpm. Cold 38-40 psi. Oil temp is normal 200-220 degrees. Change to 5-30 Mobile 1 at 2800 miles. Have 3900 miles now. Z51. I'm not that concerned but will watch it.
I've observed as low as 23 psi at idle and 30-32 psi at 1500 rpm. Cold 38-40 psi. Oil temp is normal 200-220 degrees. Change to 5-30 Mobile 1 at 2800 miles. Have 3900 miles now. Z51. I'm not that concerned but will watch it.
I think you meant water temp is normal at 200-220 degrees. Oil psi will be 20-30 psi cold and will get to around 40 psi at normal temps & rpm's.
I think you meant water temp is normal at 200-220 degrees. Oil psi will be 20-30 psi cold and will get to around 40 psi at normal temps & rpm's.
Uh, 200-220 would be pretty hot for water temp. That IS oil temp. You are also confused on oil PSI - normally higher at idle when cold since oil is more viscous cold than hot.
Uh, 200-220 would be pretty hot for water temp. That IS oil temp. You are also confused on oil PSI - normally higher at idle when cold since oil is more viscous cold than hot.
Since the thermostat is set for about 194 (assuming it is similar to the C5 & C6) coolant temps in the 200-220 range are not at all unusual, especially if you are in stop and go traffic. Heck, on the C5, unless the AC was on, the second radiator fan didn't even come on until 235.
gm engines water temps have been at 220 for some years now and the oil pressure is typically lower at low rpms than the older ls engines were. I would guess this is all for fuel economy...less friction and parasitic loss saves a wee bit of petrol.
I'll monitor the gauges this evening or tomorrow along with HPT scanner and see what the differential is.
I havent tried any of the other gauges, it may be something with the sport display. Interesting to see if HPT will log it or if its something in the gauge software.
I did have an odd thing happen the other day, I started the car cold and the engine fan went to max (LOUD) and the oil pressure was steady at 60psi idling. It was like it was in some kind of overheat or protection mode, after a couple minutes I restarted it and all was normal. No codes stored and no DIC messages or anything.
I guess its possible the oil pressure control could be self testing or cycling, if there is a way to log a PID for the oil control system that may give a clue as to whats going on. I can borrow a techII but its not a serious thing so I havent looked into it that much.
Every C7 I've heard about (and mine as well) run coolant temps right around 220
doesnt that seem high? obviously, the coolant will boil at a higher temp than h20, but 200-220 (which is where mine runs) is higher than my other cars, and a higher operating temp would seem to suggest shorter engine life.
FWIW even though the temp gauge shows 220 the car's computer thinks otherwise, ~206 to be exact. I wouldnt put too much trust in the analog temp gauge. I would assume that engine temp is water temp, most likely the analog gauge isnt all that accurate and is more of a cold/warm/normal/turn it off its hot gauge.
Actual, the red temp gauge needle is pointing at the 200 hash line. The "0" at the end of "220" is aligned to the 220 degree hash line. Took me a while to figure that out.
Actual, the red temp gauge needle is pointing at the 200 hash line. The "0" at the end of "220" is aligned to the 220 degree hash line. Took me a while to figure that out.
I dont know about that.
If every graduation after 100 is 10 degrees then its pointing at 220 in the pic. After that every graduation from 220 is 5 degrees to 260.
Thats how I see it anyhow.
And even if that is the case its still off from what the computer reads, just the other direction.
Well, this is really stupid. You are right, of course. The gauge hash marks don't make sense. In any case the needle is pointed at the 210 mark to be consistent with the digital guage.