Catch can for base car
Moderator
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 39,134
Likes: 17,985
From: DFW Area TX
Checking Oil on Z51
These vehicles have a
racetrack-ready dry sump engine
lubrication system. This high
performance system operates
differently than a standard engine
lubrication system and requires a
special procedure when checking
the engine oil level. Follow this
procedure closely.
The engine oil level must be
checked when the engine is warm.
Cold oil level in the dry sump tank
may not indicate the actual amount
of oil in the system. With this
system, engine oil is contained in an
external tank, separate from the
engine. Under normal operating
conditions, the oil pan under the
engine does not store any oil. If the
vehicle has been parked for an
extended period without the engine
being started, some oil will seep
back into the oil pan, reducing the
amount of oil held in the dry sump
tank and there could be no engine
oil at all showing on the dipstick.
This is normal since the dipstick is
designed to read the engine oil level
only after the engine has run long
enough to reach normal operating
temperature. Do not add engine oil
based on cold engine dipstick
readings. The engine oil level on the
dipstick will also be inaccurate if
checked while the engine is running.
1. To obtain an accurate engine oil
level reading, warm up the
engine to at least 80°C (175°F).
Cold oil will not give a correct oil
level reading.
2. Once the engine is warm, turn
off the engine. Checking the oil
while the engine is running will
result in an incorrect oil level
reading.
3. Check the oil level between five
and 10 minutes after the engine
is shut down.
4. Remove the dipstick from the
external engine oil tank and
clean it with a lint-free paper
towel or a cloth. Re-insert the
dipstick into the external oil tank,
pushing it all the way in until it
stops.
5. Remove the dipstick from the oil
tank and read the level on the
cross-hatched area.
These vehicles have a
racetrack-ready dry sump engine
lubrication system. This high
performance system operates
differently than a standard engine
lubrication system and requires a
special procedure when checking
the engine oil level. Follow this
procedure closely.
The engine oil level must be
checked when the engine is warm.
Cold oil level in the dry sump tank
may not indicate the actual amount
of oil in the system. With this
system, engine oil is contained in an
external tank, separate from the
engine. Under normal operating
conditions, the oil pan under the
engine does not store any oil. If the
vehicle has been parked for an
extended period without the engine
being started, some oil will seep
back into the oil pan, reducing the
amount of oil held in the dry sump
tank and there could be no engine
oil at all showing on the dipstick.
This is normal since the dipstick is
designed to read the engine oil level
only after the engine has run long
enough to reach normal operating
temperature. Do not add engine oil
based on cold engine dipstick
readings. The engine oil level on the
dipstick will also be inaccurate if
checked while the engine is running.
1. To obtain an accurate engine oil
level reading, warm up the
engine to at least 80°C (175°F).
Cold oil will not give a correct oil
level reading.
2. Once the engine is warm, turn
off the engine. Checking the oil
while the engine is running will
result in an incorrect oil level
reading.
3. Check the oil level between five
and 10 minutes after the engine
is shut down.
4. Remove the dipstick from the
external engine oil tank and
clean it with a lint-free paper
towel or a cloth. Re-insert the
dipstick into the external oil tank,
pushing it all the way in until it
stops.
5. Remove the dipstick from the oil
tank and read the level on the
cross-hatched area.
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 35,010
Likes: 12,396
From: NE South Carolina
You may be right and depending on how the car is driven it may not cause problems during the warrantee period. However the base car and dry sump Z51 both have the same PCV issue. The dry sump also has a burping issue and I used a “clean oil separator” in addition to a catch can. Both can use a catch can, I used the Elite catch can, easy install.
Last edited by JerryU; Jun 12, 2014 at 01:50 AM.
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 35,010
Likes: 12,396
From: NE South Carolina
Is it necessary to install a catch can on the base car? If so where do you buy a kit. If it is necessary to have a catch can shouldn't GM install it? Direct injection is great, but GM has dropped the ball if all it takes is a catch can that is not installed. If GM reads this post please explain how we can get a catch can installed under warrantee. It sure beats a major engine repair.
Capt Bob
Capt Bob
Can’t blame GM- Ferrari and Porsche who have had high performance direct injection engines for several years are still dealing with the issue! Typically those cars are driven fast and hard, if that is not how you drive your Vette there may not be a problem. Typically those of use buying dry sump engines, Z51, drive the cars harder. A catch can is a help but requires more maintenance depending on how the car is driven. Many folks don’t follow the recommendations for checking oil level and checking a catch can would be beyond what they would probably do! GM has no doubt employed the best technology they know how and within the warrantee period there may be no issues. Perhaps we should blame the EPA for not letting crankcase blow-by go to the atmosphere like before 1960!
Last edited by JerryU; Jun 12, 2014 at 02:11 AM.
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 35,010
Likes: 12,396
From: NE South Carolina
Personally, I'm convinced that most of the problems we are seeing (such as the photo above and others) is due to overfill on the Z51. The owners manual has an incorrect value for the Z51 oil capacity (there is an insert with the correct value) and there is a very specific process to follow to measure the oil level. If you don't follow the instructions, it is easy to overfill. This may have been done during PDI or at first oil change or even by the owner.
I have checked the oil level in my Z51 and it is spot on. I have also removed the air intake when I installed my Airaid air filter and it was spotless - no hint of oil.
Still, I plan to install a catch can and the clean oil separator. I think of it as an insurance policy to keep the MAF from getting fouled by oil should the OEM PCV valve get stuck (this has been reported already).
This is solely my recommendation and everyone can feel free to either support me or disagree with me:
I have checked the oil level in my Z51 and it is spot on. I have also removed the air intake when I installed my Airaid air filter and it was spotless - no hint of oil.
Still, I plan to install a catch can and the clean oil separator. I think of it as an insurance policy to keep the MAF from getting fouled by oil should the OEM PCV valve get stuck (this has been reported already).
This is solely my recommendation and everyone can feel free to either support me or disagree with me:
Non Z51 - Elite's "Good" or equivalent
Z51 - Elite's "Better" or equivalent
Either with turbo added - Elite's "Best" or equivalent
Z51 - Elite's "Better" or equivalent
Either with turbo added - Elite's "Best" or equivalent
That is exactly as I see it as well. In addition I decided to keep my oil level ½ quart low, in the middle of the cross hatched area. Just means properly checking oil levels more often.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,589
Likes: 190
peace of mind even for the base like mine. In my base C6 i had the EE and always had a little oil in the can. Why have any if a $175 object will eliminate it... I ordered the EE "good" 2nd edition today and think its a decent buy for $190
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E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 35,010
Likes: 12,396
From: NE South Carolina
Safe, extra insurance. And your C6, like mine, used port injection that had gasoline with cleaning additives washing the intake and the back of the valves, the C7 does not!
Last edited by JerryU; Jan 31, 2015 at 09:17 PM.
Dazed Confused & Verklemp
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,398
Likes: 109
From: Naples, FL & Clear Lake, IA
I have 1 DI engine vehicle (Ford Flex EcoBoost Twin Turbo) and 2 G8 GT's with 6.0 L Chevy engines. Ford built a catch can into the back valve cover to capture PCV oil blow buy and let it re-enter the engine thru that valve cover. On my 2 G8's, I regularly get about an ounce of oil in the catch cans( I installed) for every 2,000 mi of mixed driving. This is not racing the car at the strip or any other extended hard driving. I find this amount of oil blow-by surprising.
To that end, the first thing I am adding to my Z51 (picked up this coming Mon.) is a UPR Catch can system. But any system is better than NO Catch Can.
Any vehicle with the PCV systems blows oil through to the intake. On DI engines, nothing cleans this blow-by, when it passes into the engine from the intake thru the intake valves. In a manifold FI engine, at least the fuel somewhat cleans off the intake valves. In a DI engine, there is nothing to clean the valve tops, which means the oil will bake and cake onto the valve stems.
I owned a BMW 533i (83') that had Bosch FI, which cut fuel flow to a minimum when you let off the gas. Because carbon would build up on the intake valve stems, even with the fuel spray supposedly cleaning them, the carbon on the valves would absorb the small amount of fuel, causing the engine to quit. With the stick that I owned, it was mostly annoying. However, those that had automatics, had to put their vehicles in neutral and re-start the engine, while driving wherever, like on a fast interstate. Caused many accidents!!!
After the second valve cleaning with ground walnut shells (YES REALLY WALNUT SHELLS!!!) the stretch bolts on the engine had to be replaced... as they had stretched 2" and had bottomed out in the block, and caused the head gasket to blow....
I dpn't think we will see these issues in our Vettes, BUT... for a small $$$ investment, why not buy a catch can for your pride and joy????
To that end, the first thing I am adding to my Z51 (picked up this coming Mon.) is a UPR Catch can system. But any system is better than NO Catch Can.
Any vehicle with the PCV systems blows oil through to the intake. On DI engines, nothing cleans this blow-by, when it passes into the engine from the intake thru the intake valves. In a manifold FI engine, at least the fuel somewhat cleans off the intake valves. In a DI engine, there is nothing to clean the valve tops, which means the oil will bake and cake onto the valve stems.
I owned a BMW 533i (83') that had Bosch FI, which cut fuel flow to a minimum when you let off the gas. Because carbon would build up on the intake valve stems, even with the fuel spray supposedly cleaning them, the carbon on the valves would absorb the small amount of fuel, causing the engine to quit. With the stick that I owned, it was mostly annoying. However, those that had automatics, had to put their vehicles in neutral and re-start the engine, while driving wherever, like on a fast interstate. Caused many accidents!!!
After the second valve cleaning with ground walnut shells (YES REALLY WALNUT SHELLS!!!) the stretch bolts on the engine had to be replaced... as they had stretched 2" and had bottomed out in the block, and caused the head gasket to blow....
I dpn't think we will see these issues in our Vettes, BUT... for a small $$$ investment, why not buy a catch can for your pride and joy????