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When you change the oil on these how tight do you tighten the drain plug. I know there if a torque spec, but do ou really use a torque wrench?
Its aluminum, don't want to over do it...
Is a medium smack enough?
When you change the oil on these how tight do you tighten the drain plug. I know there if a torque spec, but do ou really use a torque wrench?
Its aluminum, don't want to over do it...
Is a medium smack enough?
Yes, Snap On torque wrench always. Read manual for torque setting.
Blue and white torque. (Pull on wrench until your face turns blue and your knuckles turn white). Actually the plug doesn't have to be real tight, snug it then tighten slightly.
Last edited by Larry/car; Jul 14, 2014 at 09:57 PM.
It must be a different definition for a "medium smack" because that reminds me of using a breaker bar, but in the reverse. For that reason, I like Larry's description better.
I highly doubt the "oil change techs" use a torque wrench when they tighten the drain plug. The torque value on the C5 Z06 (also AL) was 18 ft-lbs., which isn't much...snug, but not overly snug. And use a new drain plug gasket with every change...
It must be a different definition for a "medium smack" because that reminds me of using a breaker bar, but in the reverse. For that reason, I like Larry's description better.
What I did with my C6 is (1) firm hand tight (2) A gentle tap with my old leather mallet. Not so much of a "beat down" but a firm seating of the seal.
I highly doubt the "oil change techs" use a torque wrench when they tighten the drain plug. The torque value on the C5 Z06 (also AL) was 18 ft-lbs., which isn't much...snug, but not overly snug. And use a new drain plug gasket with every change...
I’ve never seen a drain plug that had anything other than an integral gasket that didn’t ever seem to need to be changed. Don
When you change the oil on these how tight do you tighten the drain plug. I know there if a torque spec, but do ou really use a torque wrench?
Its aluminum, don't want to over do it...
Is a medium smack enough?
Yes, Snap On torque wrench always. Read manual for torque setting.
For me, if a part (any part on any thing) has a torque spec, I will torque it down with a torque wrench - I have an SK 1/4", Snap-On 3/8", Snap-On 1/2", Matco 3/4" and a Bonney 1/4" screwdriver type.
The one thing that really pisses me off, is when one of those cheap Chinese fasteners snaps before it reaches torque spec.
I've done my own oil changes for almost 30 years now and have never tightened the drain plug super tight as I'd like to be able to get it off on the next oil change! I've never used a torque wrench, and honestly think that for something as simple as this it's not needed at all. I've never had an oil leak from a drain plug ever.
I've done my own oil changes for almost 30 years now and have never tightened the drain plug super tight as I'd like to be able to get it off on the next oil change! I've never used a torque wrench, and honestly think that for something as simple as this it's not needed at all. I've never had an oil leak from a drain plug ever.
Can’t argue with that, haven’t had anything but US makes for 40 yrs.
One of the big reasons why I use a torque wrench whenever possible is that not having a garage lift, I’m somewhat crowded underneath the car and in those situations, your sensing of what is adequate isn’t as good as if you were in a comfortable position. A good torque wrench set to factory specs is the best solution. Don
Last edited by W88fixer; Jul 15, 2014 at 11:55 AM.
I use my "calibrated wrist" to full seat the gasket, then what I can pull with my wrist with fingers about half way out on a 6" ratchet.
With the rubber gasket, I have never had one even get loose, and it always feels like it takes more force to loosen the plug than I used to tighten it.
22 ft lbs for the filter also seems overkill.. I just tighten it as tight as I can get it with my hand. Usually about 1 turn past when the gasket touches the block.
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