Removing the Masking Tape From Your Build Sheets
#1
Removing the Masking Tape From Your Build Sheets
This is a tip on how to safely remove the masking tape that comes on your Build Sheets. Unfortunately, yes, your Build Sheets come with unwanted masking tape applied on them due to an oversight that some of us may actually care. If you do not care, and like the originality of the masking tape, then you need not read further. If you do care, and want to safely remove it, then read on. With some forethought GM could have used removable tape.
I am long time in the model train hobby where I buy, sell, collect, and repair vintage Lionel Trains. I wrote the section on F3 diesels in Greenberg's Guide to Lionel Trains, the bible on Lionel Trains. Most of us in the hobby value original boxes to the point where many are worth hundreds if not thousands of dollars - Just for the boxes. So, we in the hobby are often obsessed with paper where non original tape applied to them is a killer of box value. So, I learned through trial and error how to remove erstwhile non original tape. Age of your Build Sheets does not matter as I have safely removed non-original tape on Lionel boxes from 1937.
Think hair dryer. Have it on high heat with low air flow. First, apply heat over the entire tape surface to more liquefy and loosen the glue. Do this periodically as you go along so the glue is always at least warm. Second, take an end or section, apply heat, and gently peel back the tape (think fingernails & tips of fingers) applying constant heat as you SLOWLEY peel. If you feel a section resisting, go to and work another end or section you chose. If you begin to feel paper resisting where you have a hairline tare, stop, go on to somewhere else, and eventually you will come back to this problem area, but where you now are coming at it from another direction, and shall remove the tape without continuing to tare paper.
Masking tape is one of the more difficult tapes to remove. Fortunately, the Build Sheet paper is reasonably thick and tough. It can be removed with care, patience, and time (with sometimes singed fingers) as I have done so. It is good to have a helper - one to apply heat and another to peel. I did it myself, but I have done this before by myself. You could use a small blunt instrument to save your fingers from the heat, but finger nails and fingers work best.
I had a major problem on one Build Sheet where the masking tape was applied to the front top edge, but also was folded over and stuck to the back side. I first removed the tape from the back side and cut it off with a scissors so I only had a strip of tape to remove on the front side and could come at it from more directions had I first started with the front side.
The Built Sheet paper is tough so you should not burn it and shall have a fair chance to remove the tape without damaging the lettering and numbering.
Attached are before and after pics of the Build Sheet that had the tape applied to the front side and folded over and stuck on the backside.
Not a perfect job, but I got the result I wanted, and the other Build Sheets came out perfect. In my view, much better than leaving the masking tape when I go to laminate the Build Sheets.
The one pic with a missing piece of paper came that way - I did not damage it - All the Build Sheets had masking tape on them - I later laminated them all, as you see on some pics
Good Luck.
I am long time in the model train hobby where I buy, sell, collect, and repair vintage Lionel Trains. I wrote the section on F3 diesels in Greenberg's Guide to Lionel Trains, the bible on Lionel Trains. Most of us in the hobby value original boxes to the point where many are worth hundreds if not thousands of dollars - Just for the boxes. So, we in the hobby are often obsessed with paper where non original tape applied to them is a killer of box value. So, I learned through trial and error how to remove erstwhile non original tape. Age of your Build Sheets does not matter as I have safely removed non-original tape on Lionel boxes from 1937.
Think hair dryer. Have it on high heat with low air flow. First, apply heat over the entire tape surface to more liquefy and loosen the glue. Do this periodically as you go along so the glue is always at least warm. Second, take an end or section, apply heat, and gently peel back the tape (think fingernails & tips of fingers) applying constant heat as you SLOWLEY peel. If you feel a section resisting, go to and work another end or section you chose. If you begin to feel paper resisting where you have a hairline tare, stop, go on to somewhere else, and eventually you will come back to this problem area, but where you now are coming at it from another direction, and shall remove the tape without continuing to tare paper.
Masking tape is one of the more difficult tapes to remove. Fortunately, the Build Sheet paper is reasonably thick and tough. It can be removed with care, patience, and time (with sometimes singed fingers) as I have done so. It is good to have a helper - one to apply heat and another to peel. I did it myself, but I have done this before by myself. You could use a small blunt instrument to save your fingers from the heat, but finger nails and fingers work best.
I had a major problem on one Build Sheet where the masking tape was applied to the front top edge, but also was folded over and stuck to the back side. I first removed the tape from the back side and cut it off with a scissors so I only had a strip of tape to remove on the front side and could come at it from more directions had I first started with the front side.
The Built Sheet paper is tough so you should not burn it and shall have a fair chance to remove the tape without damaging the lettering and numbering.
Attached are before and after pics of the Build Sheet that had the tape applied to the front side and folded over and stuck on the backside.
Not a perfect job, but I got the result I wanted, and the other Build Sheets came out perfect. In my view, much better than leaving the masking tape when I go to laminate the Build Sheets.
The one pic with a missing piece of paper came that way - I did not damage it - All the Build Sheets had masking tape on them - I later laminated them all, as you see on some pics
Good Luck.
Last edited by RichardLord; 07-21-2014 at 01:16 PM.
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L8ter (04-29-2016)
#3
Drifting
They come in the car and you can request they be saved (if your car is still inbound). Some dealers just DO it, others don't care unless you ask. I had mine mounted and framed at Marshall's but wish I'd removed the masking tape 1st. They said they wouldn't do it and be responsible so ... It's still there.
#6
You can contact the Corvette Museum, and ask if they have it in their Archives. I have done that with my last two Vettes, including my C7. And, yes, it still had the masking tape on it...I chose to laminate it with the tape still on it...so, it's really an all original Build Sheet from the Plant....
#7
I'm not 100% positive, but I think you can get a copy of the built sheet from this years car, (2014) or last years car, (2013) from the dealer you purchased it from. Call or e-mail your saleman to find out.
#8
Drifting
You can contact the Corvette Museum, and ask if they have it in their Archives. I have done that with my last two Vettes, including my C7. And, yes, it still had the masking tape on it...I chose to laminate it with the tape still on it...so, it's really an all original Build Sheet from the Plant....
https://store.corvettemuseum.com/ser...buildsheet.asp
#9
Moderator
Dealer can replace your Monroney Sticker (Window Sticker) for current year and prior year, but I don't think they can get the build sheet. As others have stated, you can order your build sheet from the National Corvette Museum.
#10
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor'15
I couldn't get the tape off of mine without ruining the Build Sheet. I just had is laminated with the tape on it too.
#11
Burning Brakes
Now are you sure that when you display your Corvette for scoring with the NCRS folks you won't loose points for "non-original" build sheets if they don't have the masking tape? Just like if your intake manifold doesn't have overspray?
#12
Interesting question. Seems like that may going a bit to far in the originality department. But, then, my C7 has Lashway Carbon Fiber Side Skirts and Front Splitter, and I changed out my 7-speed to a Hurst, but which I likely shall change back to OEM as I don't like the Hurst.
#13
Heel & Toe
I was told, at my museum delivery, just last week, that all build sheets are taken from the car, at time of completion of assembly, and gm will sell them back to you, if you are interested
#14
Instructor
The PDR tech at the dealership usually removes them at time of check in.
#15
Not all cars end up at the dealer or the museum with all of the interim build sheets. If it's in the car when it get to the museum the PDI team will save it, they never throw anything out. Hell, we even got the plastic the seats were covered in. However, the only build sheet left in the car from the factory was the interior sheet. We walked over to the library and got a laminated copy of the build sheet before we left the museum.
#16
Race Director
Dang where were you before I tried removing the tape on mine??? That stuff is glued on pretty darn well and mine went all the way across the whole sheet (taping the two sheets together). I got most of it off just carefully pulling, but lost a bit of the text on one corner. (No one but me will notice or care...)
BTW My sheets were retrieved by my salesman who is a Corvette only salesman so he knows how we like getting all that stuff. He said normally it gets trashed with the wrapping and other protection films during prep unless the new owner specifically asks to have everything saved.
BTW My sheets were retrieved by my salesman who is a Corvette only salesman so he knows how we like getting all that stuff. He said normally it gets trashed with the wrapping and other protection films during prep unless the new owner specifically asks to have everything saved.
#19
#20