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I understand and this has been discussed. The two nearest Chevy dealers will not change the oil when I want it. They will make me wait until 20% on the DIC and at the rate I am planning on driving the car (700 miles since 6/25 not counting the drive home from the dealer), it will go nearly a year before they’ll do it. I won’t leave oil in that long, particularly on the first change.
Just wondering how long you plan on keeping the car? I purchased my 08 Malibu a little over 6 years ago and have always waited for the DIC to indicate when the oil should be changed. First fill went 8 months and 6K miles. Have been averaging about every 8 months since. Uses Dyno oil not synthetic. Engine runs fine and has no sludge. Same goes for my 03 Tahoe. Been using the OLM to tell me to change oil since I got it in late 02. Has close to 100K miles and the engine runs fine. Good oil pressure and good coolant temp. Does a lot of heavy duty towing of my Vette to various tracks around the country. I expect I will get over 200K miles on the engine just following GM's recommended maintenance schedule.
You just don't need to change oil like the old days. Remember people thought the 3K/3Mo change interval was too long when it was introduced in the early 60s. Before that it had been 2K/2Mo. Kendall used to advertise their oil as the 2000 mile oil back in the day.
how high up are the front wheel stands and could you get the wheel high enough to slip it under or did it take 2 steps?
My stands were fabricated of 3, 2X12 boards, screwed and Gorilla glued together with sturdy steel 90 degree brackets at each end to prevent forward or aft movement of the car. I also slipped a 1” slab of plywood under for some extra clearance.
I have the plastic, permanent jacking pucks and it was no issue to lift the car high enough to put them under the driver’s side front wheel. Same on the passenger side w/o the plywood. Put 2 2X8’s under the passenger side rear wheel and chocked the driver’s side rear. The transmission is in park and the “E” brake is on, don’t know how to make it any safer. Don
My stands were fabricated of 3, 2X12 boards, screwed and Gorilla glued together with sturdy steel 90 degree brackets at each end to prevent forward or aft movement of the car. I also slipped a 1” slab of plywood under for some extra clearance.
I have the plastic, permanent jacking pucks and it was no issue to lift the car high enough to put them under the driver’s side front wheel. Same on the passenger side w/o the plywood. Put 2 2X8’s under the passenger side rear wheel and chocked the driver’s side rear. The transmission is in park and the “E” brake is on, don’t know how to make it any safer. Don
Glad to help. I had thought of the Race Ramps “chocks” but was concerned about having to lift the car high enough to clear the chock. The wheels of course droop when the weight is taken off and that means even more lift height.
Then again, I enjoy doing things myself and I think the chocks I built will take more abuse than the Race Ramps before failing. Don