I'm talking to the dealership. I don't have a jack but I've been wanting to buy one. I could run to the hardware store get one.

 

Service manager said the same thing. Don't drive it out of the parking garage. He said let the tow truck figure out how to get to you and not to mess with it further.

 

Jack the car up and put a plastic take-out tray under the stuck wheel then drop the car back down. It will slide easily then. We used to do that with FWD cars in a parking lot with the parking brake on and rip around. Misspent youth

 

Be prepared to stand your ground if you get a less than professional flatbed driver. It isn't his car or tire and he may decide the best way (because it is easiest for him) is to just drive it out of the garage. You need to stay with the dealership saying that it cannot be driven out in its present condition. There is always a way to do it right and avoid further damage but that isn't the way a driver being paid by the job and not the time or effort may want to do it.

If it is a major rear end issue then both sides could easily lock up due to freely moving broken parts and then it gets really interesting when you car is totally immobilized and blocking the garage for everyone.

 

I wouldn't drive it that far. You'll ruin the tire, and maybe cause other damage.

Call OnStar or the dealer, explain the situation,, and ask them to send a mechanic to remove/reinstall the wheel and brake pads to free it up. You'll probably have to pay them out of pocket, but it'll be worth it in the long run.

They make dollies with casters for moving cars around in the shop. Maybe the tow truck could get some for this job.

 

Ah the joys of a misspent youth.

Just the same, a great idea. If you're worried about the rear axle, then put a tray under each wheel and have the flatbed driver winch it out of the garage.

 

Are you in a place where the residual water could have turned to ice? That would be a LOT harder to free up than rust.

 

Nope. Heated underground garage.

 

If this's just rust causing all this trouble I'm gonna feel like the worlds biggest douche causing all this trouble. On the other hand if the rear axle is truly cooked then that's gonna suck even more!

 

Cold car pulled into heated garage greatly increases rust/corrosion buildup since your cold car parts are effectively little moisture magnets. I hope it is just rust/corrosion causing the problem. These are just like any other typical adhesive, they hold really well right up until the point that they don't which is why I suggested rapid brake release/application coupled with rocking the car since the shock plus localized vibration from this is good at breaking adhesive bonding.

Several years ago I brought my Olds Aurora into the local Farm and Fleet to have some tires installed and I noticed when I dropped it off they had a GMC pickup on the lift and the only tech present was trying to get the wheels off. About 45 minutes later I walked by and the tech and truck were in the same position so I picked up my keys to take the car to another shop and suggested to the tech to tap the inside of the wheel with a rubber mallet. It is a different corrosion issue, wheel stuck to hub, but it shows how strong the bond is because the large size tech had been struggling and prying for close to an hour with no success. A tap with the mallet caused it to pop loose quickly, I guess he was new but he was very thankful for my suggestion. There are other ways to break wheels loose if you don't have a "hitting device" like lowering it with slightly loosened lug nuts but I prefer the mallet approach. It doesn't take much corrosion to resist a lot of force but a sharp vibration will break the bond.

 

Some tow trucks have mini wheels to put under an axle, or use wheel dollys and/or jack....also some people have furniture moving pads, they are carpet on one side and grip plastic on the other...they really work to move furniture in a house...good luck keep us posted...

 

I tried tapping the caliper and the disc quite a bit. No dice.

 

I assume rocking with rapid brake pulsing didn't help?

Good luck and I hope the problem is repaired quickly.

 

I've been driving around the block after washing my C6 Z51 for years to prevent the pads from sticking to the rotors. Works like a charm. I never had it lock so bad as to drag a tire, though.

 

My M3 did this as well so that's why I drive around the block to dry off the rotors/pads.
I'm now wondering why parking after driving in the rain does not cause this problem.

 

I think usually driving in the rain there is enough heat built up in the wheel/hub/axle assembly to promote pretty rapid drying once you stop, assuming a trip of reasonable length. But if you wash your car in the driveway and then put it up that isn't the case.

 

So here's where I stand. The towing company was late. Chevy roadside called to confirm they were there, and eventually I talked to someone who talked to the towing company. They needed 4 more hours due to "weather". I tell the nice lady this is not acceptable. There is NO weather. She tries another towing company and those guys say they will be here within the hour. So I'm still waiting!

The rocking and pumping did not work.

Worked all night last night and tonight I get to do it all over again! I so long for my bed right now.

 

Makes sense.

 

So while maneuvering to get the car ready for the flatbed the truck driver points out that it's actually the front right tire that's stuck. I guess the tracks were on the right side and I assumed it was the rear based on that and the "service rear axle". The car is at the dealership now. Their corvette specialist is working on it. I know him and I trust him. It's a small dealership but they've taken care of me in the past.

 

Hope it all works out for you -- I've had rotor rust several times even to the point of pulsing squeaking brakes for a mile or so, but never a frozen wheel. Let us know what they find out.