Digfoot

Maybe a silly question, but can you "over-wax your Vette? I love the look of my black Stingray with a fresh wax.

Glen e

Depends on wax, but in general, no.....this assumes your tool and surfaces are clean.

I strip everything on the car annually and repolish and seal.

Polish Is the secret to great gloss, not the wax.....

peter pan

Once I got my Vette all setup annually similar to Glen e I wax monthly

nmvettec7

Here's is a very good article that describes using "polish".

Keep in mind that using a "polish" and using a "wax" are two different applications in the detail process.

Once the car is "polished", by using the correct product, then you can move on to a "paint sealant" or "paint coating", or just proceed to the "waxing" application.

Personally, on my cars, I start with a hand wash. clay bar, hand wash again, polish application, paint sealant or paint coating, then the final application of a quality wax.

Keeping your C7 in top shape, using detailing techniques, will make washing and cleaning the car in the future so much easier.

You paid a pretty penny for your C7, so take the extra effort and time, to keep the car and paint in top condition. Not only will you get many compliments, but detailing will help get a better price on resale or trade.

I see so many people with beautiful cars that are too lazy to keep them in top shape. Don't be one of them!

Check out this article, as it provides a basic education about "polishing" your ride.

http://paintcarendetailing.com/polishing.html

I hope this information and post helps other C7 forum members.

dvilin

Digfoot

Awesome response. Thanks. I guess I come from the "old school" where you just wash and wax. I intend to start doig it the "right way". This is a big help. One question. If needed, at what point in the process do you use swirl remover? After clay and before sealant?

Edwards,

If your paint looks really new with no swirls or scratches do you still have to polish before clay and wax and should a paint sealant be used and if so before waxing...thanks for any thoughts

nmvettec7

Just my suggestion, other members may have a different sequence.

1) Hand wash 1st
2) Clay Bar the surface to get the smoothness & glass like finish to the paint surface, and see what the condition of the paint is.
3) Wash again to remove the clay bar residue
4) Then apply the Meguiars Swirl X product or Meguiars M205.
5) Then use a detail polish
6) Apply sealant or paint coating. ( I use the Pinnacle Black Diamond Paint Coating $79.99 for a 4 oz spray. It is quite expensive)
7) Apply wax if you wish.

Total cost for this sequence is about $125.00 for the materials, but will do many cars if you have others. These products last a long time. If you have this done professionally, your looking at spending $500 to $1000 just for the first 7 steps. You can DIY easily, just be confident in your work and the process. The detail job is labor intensive, but your C7 will look AWESOME. Expect to spend 6 to 8 hours for the 7 steps above, that includes food breaks and time to hit the bathroom when needed!

The Black Diamond Paint Coating will last up to 2 years. With a quality wax over the Paint Coating, future washes and drying will be very easy and fast. I have completed this process on my 2009 Jaguar XKR, 2014 Porsche 981, and am getting ready to complete the C7.



Follow the steps above, but be sure to wash 1st, then clay bar, then polish, then wax, if your NOT going to apply a sealant or paint coating. If you don't have any swirls, just use a non-abrasive polish, (skip the Meguairs Swirl X or Meguiars M205) then wax.

Hope this info helps what you are asking.

mksz51

If needed clay first - that removes surface contaminants. Then prep the surface with a polish - it will improve ANY surface - even if you don't see gross swirls or scratches something will be there. Finally, wax / seal / whatever you choose. Think of the surface as a series of peaks and valleys - that type of surface doesn't reflect light well. Polishing works to remove the peaks and "even" the surface. Sealers and waxes fill the remaining voids to further smooth the surface resulting in the best reflection of light.

Edwards,

This sounds great and fun especially since time is not an issue

steve8

The basics are;
Wash, clay, wash, machine polish, protect.
Substitute preferred quality products in each step.
I would do this even on a brand new car.

SCorvette08

smokin avatar

Glen e

I'm sure a few purists won't like this but about 100 people here have found this works fine. I learned from a detialer a long time ago you can shorten the "wash, clay, wash" to one simple procedure. There is no reason for clay lubricant.

Use a nanoskin fine sponge instead of clay. And WHILE washing with dawn to strip, use the sponge (it is artificial clay, and the only way to go, Work as good or better...I did a doc on it here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/glcvwraxo0...0clay.pdf?dl=0

all my docs for a newbie here:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/acxkaf44c...VlC5djtQa?dl=0

nmvettec7

Glen e is correct....The nanoskin works great also and is the new technology to the clay bar process. Either works well. I have a hard time finding them locally and buy mine from Amazon.

Glen e

old habits die hard, esp in detailing...I find it to be very interesting that many people will stay with what they have been using, and defend it to the end. That's cool, but in many cases the owner that won't look at new stuff is working WAY TOO HARD. And therefore hates detailing, doesn't do it and the car suffers. The simple fact is in the last 5-7 years technology has changed everything. Orbital polishers are way better and easier to use. Many polishes are the "diminishing abrasive" type that get softer as you use them, Wipe on walk away (WOWA) polymers products eliminate the need for buffing that hard wax off and rinseless technology gets a wash done twice as fast, while leaving the surface as clean as a hose wash for a weekly wash where the car is kept clean. I have no allegiance to any company. When I find something better, my current product gets dumped.

Please start reading the forums at autogeek and others, its a whole new world now, you do not have to spend all day detailing your car, you can be driving.

And a word about Ultimate quik wax. It's really a polymer and if you do not want to do ANY detailing, use this stuff after a wash. It does not last long, but it's so easy, you do it more often. Nice gloss for a spray on, much better than any "quick detailer."

IMO, the real gem of a company out there is Duragloss. A few chemist brothers started this company and every product I've used of there is top notch and value priced, better than the majors, IMO. Shipping $ is decent off their website. I buy their Aquawax and Rinseless by the gallon.

Vetteman Jack

Thanks for all the good information. Anything that makes the detailing process easier and gives a great end result is a good thing IMO.

Roadrogue

Glen, what's the difference between Ultimate Quik Wax and Duragloss Aquawax?

Glen e

Dunno, Aquawax is meant to be sprayed on when wet, then you dry. Not sure UQW is same. Both are solid products.

Nitemare9

WOW, WOW for me all this is unbelievable. I wash it when dirty. With the new paints and clear coats, I haven't waxed, sealed or clay barred anything I've owned for the last 12 years or more and guess what??? They all looked great until I sold them or traded them in. I could list them all but you would be bored and thinking I was bragging. My 2008 Roush F150 Nitemare has never been waxed, sealed or polished and looks great. BTW, it lives outside in the Florida sun with no cover and was bought new. What a waste of my time, and money, IMO, Wahaaaaaaa No offence meant. My '13 427 has never been ,what ever, been waxed, nothing but washed when dirty and AW does get dirty.

lastcowboy

nope you can't over wax.