Oil level
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 2,195
Likes: 479
From: Bonita Springs Florida
Oil level
My buddy has had and is still having an oil smell in his car since he's had a dealer change his oil.
I have yet to have my oil changed since my mileage is much less (decided to do a 6 month change for the first two years to get the included oil changes), however I digress.
Comparing our oil measurements (cold and warm), and doing the obligatory dipstick twist the following differences manifest.
When cold, my oil measures just a hair above the top line above the cross-hatch marks. My buddy's measures way above that line.
(using the old school logic of when cold all the engine oil should fall to the pan)
When warm, mine measures between the high and low lines of the cross-hatch marks while my buddy's measures just above the top line (like mine when the engine is cold)
(again using the old school logic, when checking engine w/ oil warm, some of the oil will be in the upper engine and not yet returned to the pan)
Since mine came from GM with the oil filled to the level it's reading (and I am NOT experiencing any oil smell) and it measures the way it does from the factory, and my buddy's car was fine (smell-wise) until the dealer oil change, are dealers overfilling the reservoirs when doing the oil changes?
Also not getting the convoluted way we are checking and reading the oil in our cars. Makes zero sense to me. I do get the dip stick twist rationale, but the warm reading just doesn't make any sense. Why not have a cold and warm reading mark on the dipstick???????????????
Common sense would indicate that when Chevy does an oil change on a warm engine, if they dump in all the required oil into the car, it's likely to be 1/2 quart over unless every bit of oil is out of the upper engine.
Interested in hearing any input or explanation (aside from "just change your own oil").
I have yet to have my oil changed since my mileage is much less (decided to do a 6 month change for the first two years to get the included oil changes), however I digress.
Comparing our oil measurements (cold and warm), and doing the obligatory dipstick twist the following differences manifest.
When cold, my oil measures just a hair above the top line above the cross-hatch marks. My buddy's measures way above that line.
(using the old school logic of when cold all the engine oil should fall to the pan)
When warm, mine measures between the high and low lines of the cross-hatch marks while my buddy's measures just above the top line (like mine when the engine is cold)
(again using the old school logic, when checking engine w/ oil warm, some of the oil will be in the upper engine and not yet returned to the pan)
Since mine came from GM with the oil filled to the level it's reading (and I am NOT experiencing any oil smell) and it measures the way it does from the factory, and my buddy's car was fine (smell-wise) until the dealer oil change, are dealers overfilling the reservoirs when doing the oil changes?
Also not getting the convoluted way we are checking and reading the oil in our cars. Makes zero sense to me. I do get the dip stick twist rationale, but the warm reading just doesn't make any sense. Why not have a cold and warm reading mark on the dipstick???????????????
Common sense would indicate that when Chevy does an oil change on a warm engine, if they dump in all the required oil into the car, it's likely to be 1/2 quart over unless every bit of oil is out of the upper engine.
Interested in hearing any input or explanation (aside from "just change your own oil").
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 12,243
Likes: 97
From: Center of the Universe, Alabama
You didn't mention if either was a dry sump (Z51) or not. If they are, there's a specific procedure for checking (check within a short time after engine warmed up & shut off).
Missing this could result in overfilling. Lots of stories on here about Chevy service departments not knowing this. Regardless of dry sump or not, never over fill oil. Have your buddy check his intake for oil residue. If it does, he (or his dealer) will need to clean it up & lower his oil level.
Missing this could result in overfilling. Lots of stories on here about Chevy service departments not knowing this. Regardless of dry sump or not, never over fill oil. Have your buddy check his intake for oil residue. If it does, he (or his dealer) will need to clean it up & lower his oil level.
Last edited by grandpawmoses; Feb 11, 2015 at 10:54 AM.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 16,376
Likes: 404
From: Should this thoughtful, valuable contribution meet with no acknowledgement or 'thanks' this post----
gallons of threads on this issue.....my guess, having been through the overfill snafu, is it may be overfilled. Have him get under the car and first look for oil drips after overnight parking. Second, crawl under there or raise the car and look for oil on the chassis components, especially anything that can get hot enough to fry the oil, e.g. exhaust or header parts. I agree, this is one of the most screwed up designs in automotive history as far as lubrication goes.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 2,195
Likes: 479
From: Bonita Springs Florida
Neither cars are Z51's.
I have read the threads about the oil issues and the occasional smells some experience.
Since we both have similar cars, and I have not had my oil changed since delivery and he had, we decided to check for any variance in how cars are delivered vs. how the appear after a dealership oil change.
Would not have even done this if he wasn't having the oil smell problem.
Both of us being older and knowing how oils used to be checked and what occurs if over filled, thought it was worth bringing up one more time. Not sure I recall if anyone had actually did a side by side comparison of cars with factory oil vs. dealer changed oil levels.
Rather telling IMO.
I have read the threads about the oil issues and the occasional smells some experience.
Since we both have similar cars, and I have not had my oil changed since delivery and he had, we decided to check for any variance in how cars are delivered vs. how the appear after a dealership oil change.
Would not have even done this if he wasn't having the oil smell problem.
Both of us being older and knowing how oils used to be checked and what occurs if over filled, thought it was worth bringing up one more time. Not sure I recall if anyone had actually did a side by side comparison of cars with factory oil vs. dealer changed oil levels.
Rather telling IMO.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 22,548
Likes: 1,689
From: South Carolina
My buddy has had and is still having an oil smell in his car since he's had a dealer change his oil.
I have yet to have my oil changed since my mileage is much less (decided to do a 6 month change for the first two years to get the included oil changes), however I digress.
Comparing our oil measurements (cold and warm), and doing the obligatory dipstick twist the following differences manifest.
When cold, my oil measures just a hair above the top line above the cross-hatch marks. My buddy's measures way above that line.
(using the old school logic of when cold all the engine oil should fall to the pan)
When warm, mine measures between the high and low lines of the cross-hatch marks while my buddy's measures just above the top line (like mine when the engine is cold)
(again using the old school logic, when checking engine w/ oil warm, some of the oil will be in the upper engine and not yet returned to the pan)
Since mine came from GM with the oil filled to the level it's reading (and I am NOT experiencing any oil smell) and it measures the way it does from the factory, and my buddy's car was fine (smell-wise) until the dealer oil change, are dealers overfilling the reservoirs when doing the oil changes?
Also not getting the convoluted way we are checking and reading the oil in our cars. Makes zero sense to me. I do get the dip stick twist rationale, but the warm reading just doesn't make any sense. Why not have a cold and warm reading mark on the dipstick???????????????
Common sense would indicate that when Chevy does an oil change on a warm engine, if they dump in all the required oil into the car, it's likely to be 1/2 quart over unless every bit of oil is out of the upper engine.
Interested in hearing any input or explanation (aside from "just change your own oil").
I have yet to have my oil changed since my mileage is much less (decided to do a 6 month change for the first two years to get the included oil changes), however I digress.
Comparing our oil measurements (cold and warm), and doing the obligatory dipstick twist the following differences manifest.
When cold, my oil measures just a hair above the top line above the cross-hatch marks. My buddy's measures way above that line.
(using the old school logic of when cold all the engine oil should fall to the pan)
When warm, mine measures between the high and low lines of the cross-hatch marks while my buddy's measures just above the top line (like mine when the engine is cold)
(again using the old school logic, when checking engine w/ oil warm, some of the oil will be in the upper engine and not yet returned to the pan)
Since mine came from GM with the oil filled to the level it's reading (and I am NOT experiencing any oil smell) and it measures the way it does from the factory, and my buddy's car was fine (smell-wise) until the dealer oil change, are dealers overfilling the reservoirs when doing the oil changes?
Also not getting the convoluted way we are checking and reading the oil in our cars. Makes zero sense to me. I do get the dip stick twist rationale, but the warm reading just doesn't make any sense. Why not have a cold and warm reading mark on the dipstick???????????????
Common sense would indicate that when Chevy does an oil change on a warm engine, if they dump in all the required oil into the car, it's likely to be 1/2 quart over unless every bit of oil is out of the upper engine.
Interested in hearing any input or explanation (aside from "just change your own oil").
I changed my oil at 900 miles. (wet sump) I added 6.5 quarts and I was above the top hatch...no way the dip cable is correct...I also had very slight oil smell at idle for about 1000 miles. Technically I am running a half quart low but it shows over full to me.
Moderator
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 39,131
Likes: 17,981
From: DFW Area TX
Your buddy needs to get this addressed ASAP:
Do not add too much oil. Oil
levels above or below the
acceptable operating range
shown on the dipstick are harmful
to the engine. If you find that you
have an oil level above the
operating range, i.e., the engine
has so much oil that the oil level
gets above the cross-hatched
area that shows the proper
operating range, the engine could
be damaged. You should drain
out the excess oil or limit driving
of the vehicle and seek a service
professional to remove the
excess amount of oil.
levels above or below the
acceptable operating range
shown on the dipstick are harmful
to the engine. If you find that you
have an oil level above the
operating range, i.e., the engine
has so much oil that the oil level
gets above the cross-hatched
area that shows the proper
operating range, the engine could
be damaged. You should drain
out the excess oil or limit driving
of the vehicle and seek a service
professional to remove the
excess amount of oil.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 2,195
Likes: 479
From: Bonita Springs Florida
Usually (going back to the day) oil readings with a hot engine usually would show 1/2 quart low on the stick (usually midway between the "FULL" and "ADD" lines marked on the dip stick).
Most of us knew that would be the case, so showing a mid point reading on the dip stick lines during a gas stop was never a consideration or worry.
On a cold engine (morning check) oil would always read to the top mark on the stick (unless you actually burned some oil).
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski