I think GM powertrain engineers know what they’re doing. Don
Interesting read
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Racer
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Schaumburg IL
Racer
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From: Far West
From Mobil 1's Frequently Asked Questions Website
https://mobiloil.com/en/faq/product-faqs
Q: Is it true that new engines need break-in perionds using conventional motor oil?
Ans: That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances and much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils.
Ans: That is a myth. In the past, engine break-in was necessary to remove metal flashing or any other abrasive material left inside the engine after machining, as well as to allow the valves and rings to "seat" properly. Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances and much improved machining, and under much cleaner conditions compared to the engines of 10 or 20 years ago. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require a break-in period using petroleum-based motor oils.
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Racer
Joined: Feb 2014
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From: Schaumburg IL
A good friend of mine used to be a GM tech. He helped me put a cam in my 79 vet. When we got done and fired it up he told me to run it up to around 3k rpms. He said that is the proper way to break in a new cam and parts.
Melting Slicks
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From: Texas
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I am far from a gear head, but when I was a kid I , like many others, built an engine. This was a 289 for my Mustang. We ( an ex Ford mechanic ) did cam, heads, crank ,high rise manifold, 750 double pumper Holly, MT long tube headers and a duel point ignition. Timed it, tuned it and drove the snot out of it. It burned a little oil and I got 60,000 miles out of it. So I am calling BS on this read.
I have had several new Corvettes that I broke in with Mobile 1, never a problem. I kind of followed the GM guide lines about break in. Put 65,000 miles on all of them and never had a problem. So again I say BS.
I have had several new Corvettes that I broke in with Mobile 1, never a problem. I kind of followed the GM guide lines about break in. Put 65,000 miles on all of them and never had a problem. So again I say BS.
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The Consigliere
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From: 2023 Z06 & 2010 ZR1
According to Katech the newer polymer coated main bearings need a break-in period before getting hammered on.
Plus the gear sets in the trans and rear diff benefit from some easy break-in miles prior to getting hammered on (as will the clutch in a manual trans car).
Seating the rings seems to be far less of an issue than it was 20 years ago.
Plus the gear sets in the trans and rear diff benefit from some easy break-in miles prior to getting hammered on (as will the clutch in a manual trans car).
Seating the rings seems to be far less of an issue than it was 20 years ago.
Melting Slicks
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From: Cedar Falls Iowa
Before I got my car I read just about everything I could find on break in. Then digested it all and came up with a plan I thought would work:
C7 had 2 mi on it. Took it to the gas station to top it off. By then it was warmed up with about 7mi on it. I ran it about 1/2 throttle between 1500 and 4000 rpm through the first 3 gears engine braked the car down in 3rd and 2nd. Did this about a dozen times the best I could without getting arrested or pissing off other motorists.
After that I drove another70 or so mi home varying gears and throttle constantly including plenty of 4k rpm engine braking in 3rd on the highway. Probably shifted the M7 100+ times in an hour. Never took it above 4k or what I though was about 1/2 throttle though.
Once home, my rule has been I can floor it as long as I don't go above 4k. At 300 mi I let myself go to 4500. At 400 I let myself go to 5k. At 500 miles it gets an oil change and then it's game on.
C7 had 2 mi on it. Took it to the gas station to top it off. By then it was warmed up with about 7mi on it. I ran it about 1/2 throttle between 1500 and 4000 rpm through the first 3 gears engine braked the car down in 3rd and 2nd. Did this about a dozen times the best I could without getting arrested or pissing off other motorists.
After that I drove another70 or so mi home varying gears and throttle constantly including plenty of 4k rpm engine braking in 3rd on the highway. Probably shifted the M7 100+ times in an hour. Never took it above 4k or what I though was about 1/2 throttle though.
Once home, my rule has been I can floor it as long as I don't go above 4k. At 300 mi I let myself go to 4500. At 400 I let myself go to 5k. At 500 miles it gets an oil change and then it's game on.
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Melting Slicks
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From: Argyle, Texas
The engine in your Corvette is already broken in, they do that at the factory. Thats why you can getvaway with synthetic as the factory fill. The last bit of "breaking in" that we do as consumers is minor and wont really matter if you drive it like you stole it or grandma it from the dealership. The break in period is more for all the other mechanical systems to break in, like the transmission, clutches, differential, and suspension components that can only be broken in through actual use and not on an engine dyno.
I drive my cars like I intend to from day one mile one, if anything breaks thats what warranties are for. Since GM hasnt made the break in procedure mandatory to maintain warranty coverage its basically advice for paranoid people who think a Corvette is actually a car that needs to be babied.
I drive my cars like I intend to from day one mile one, if anything breaks thats what warranties are for. Since GM hasnt made the break in procedure mandatory to maintain warranty coverage its basically advice for paranoid people who think a Corvette is actually a car that needs to be babied.
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