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Old May 24, 2015 | 08:25 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Seannyc
Do I get e2 dual exit ports with double exit check valve or e2 single exit ports with single exit check valve
For what it's worth. You only need a check valve if getting and using the two outlet can. The check valve is used on the outlet going to the drilled hole in the air intake before the throttle body. That stops flow from that outlet thru the can to the OEM connection.
If you get a 2 outlet can and plug one outlet (as I did) and only use the original OEM connections you don't need a check valve. The OEM hose you're replacing does not have one. IMO it only adds a flow restriction besides not being needed.
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Old May 24, 2015 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Seannyc
Do I get e2 dual exit ports with double exit check valve or e2 single exit ports with single exit check valve
Originally Posted by JerryU
For what it's worth. You only need a check valve if getting and using the two outlet can. The check valve is used on the outlet going to the drilled hole in the air intake before the throttle body. That stops flow from that outlet thru the can to the OEM connection.
If you get a 2 outlet can and plug one outlet (as I did) and only use the original OEM connections you don't need a check valve. The OEM hose you're replacing does not have one. IMO it only adds a flow restriction besides not being needed.
Made this schematic for my own benefit' "techies" may be interested in the reason for my comments. The reason given for needing the line going to the drilled hole in the air intake is at or near WOT (wide open throttle) the pressure in the intake manifold is near atmospheric accept for reversion pressure spikes. However if air is to flow thru the throttle body (TB) the average pressure before must be higher than after the TB (my rough calculations show about 0.5 psi at WOT.) However I accept info from the experts who race these cars and especially if you have a supercharger like the Z06 on the need for the 2nd line in race conditions. Regarding the need for a check valve, keep in mind the OEM PCV line does not contain a check valve and at WOT it's true you're not flowing much crackcase blowby. But in normal driving you're at WOT a very small percentage of time.
If you add the 2nd line, you must have a check valve to prevent air from flowing from before the TB thru the "Can" directly to the intake manifold essentially defeating the purpose of the PCV system!



Last edited by JerryU; May 24, 2015 at 11:51 AM.
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Old May 24, 2015 | 11:06 AM
  #23  
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I went with the Elite Best and dual check valves on my '15 Z51. I figured if I was going to install the mod, why not spend a bit extra and cover all the potential problem issues?

By the way, my E2 Best Can seems to be catching about 1/2 ounce of oil per 1,000 miles (mild driving conditions). It sure is nice knowing that oil isn't being ingested.

Last edited by Rave; May 25, 2015 at 12:49 AM.
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Old May 24, 2015 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Rave
I went with the Elite Best and dual check valves on my '15 Z51. I figured if I was going to install the mod, why not spend a bit extra and cover all the potential problem issues?
My issue with the check valve in the one exit fitting replacing the OEM large hose is it has very small passages. You can see the two small slots in the intake. I have one and it works fine if you blow thru it. (Have not used mine nor the 2nd hose at this time and for the amount of WOT I use still don't see a need.) However with the blowby vapor and oil mist coming from the crackcase that passes thru the can could it clog? I'd check the operation from time to time.
If the one going to the air intake hose clogged, not a big concern. Unlike the main line there will not be much crackcase blowby going thru that line since the air intake hose is always near atmospheric pressure not like the intake manifold when cruising, which is a vacuum sucking in the crackcase gases.

Last edited by JerryU; May 24, 2015 at 12:04 PM.
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Old May 24, 2015 | 03:07 PM
  #25  
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I have the UPR catch can with 2 outlets and the clean oil separator. Both exit lines have check valves midway between the ends. Their ends are the quick connect ones just like GM's. While I don't do long WOT runs (OK maybe I do when I'm at or practicing for my stripping!), but I didn't want any opportunity to get oil in my intake in a DI engine.

Don't understand why GM doesn't provide a remedy like Ford does on their 3.5TT DI engine where the oil is caught using the same system as aftermarket catch cans in one of the valve covers, and just runs back into the engine.
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Old May 24, 2015 | 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by EcoBrick Bob
I have the UPR catch can with 2 outlets and the clean oil separator. Both exit lines have check valves midway between the ends. Their ends are the quick connect ones just like GM's. While I don't do long WOT runs (OK maybe I do when I'm at or practicing for my stripping!), but I didn't want any opportunity to get oil in my intake in a DI engine.
The check valves ensure flow is "away from" the "Can" at least those supplied from Elite. In fact it is not logical to have one that stops flow to the manifold or you'd defeat the PCV system. Therefore a check valve in that line does not stop oil vapor and whatever mist is not caught by the "Can" from flowing into the manifold. So like the OEM PCV system (where the hose removed has no check valve) adding one stops flow "from" the manifold to the crankcase via the "Can." Perhaps that is an issue with a supercharger but with a normally aspirated engine can't see when the pressure in the manifold is higher than the crackcase.
I'm just trying to define what it does and so far can't see a benefit in a non supercharged engine. Just sayn'!

Last edited by JerryU; May 24, 2015 at 03:52 PM.
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Old May 24, 2015 | 03:53 PM
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I'm planning to supercharge and later on a cam just wanna put the right catch can in it befor I do that all
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Old May 24, 2015 | 03:59 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Seannyc
I'm planning to supercharge and later on a cam just wanna put the right catch can in it before I do that all
Can see the benefit of the 2nd line and the two check valves in that case! Perhaps that is why some of the "Can" manufacturers include them.
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Old May 24, 2015 | 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by JerryU
Can see the benefit of the 2nd line and the two check valves in that case! Perhaps that is why some of the "Can" manufacturers include them.
Alright thanks
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Old May 24, 2015 | 11:28 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Seannyc
Do I get e2 dual exit ports with double exit check valve or e2 single exit ports with single exit check valve
If you're going to be boosted, I think you should go with the dual exit ports / check valve option.
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Old May 25, 2015 | 12:48 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by meyerweb
If you're going to be boosted, I think you should go with the dual exit ports / check valve option.
Dual exit port check valve or single
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Old May 25, 2015 | 12:49 AM
  #32  
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Excellent discussion on this topic. I'm still not convinced, however, that a second exit or a clean air separator are necessary. Consequently, I went with the "good" can.

To me, a simple solution to the coking issue for GM is to install a catch can large enough to hold the estimated oil "blow by" between oil changes. Then, when the oil is changed, have draining the catch can part of the procedure. Heck, they could even run a drain line down near the current drain plug(s). If GM felt there was a need for a clean side separator, it could be added with no additional maintenance required.
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Old May 25, 2015 | 12:51 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Seannyc
Dual exit port check valve or single
Dual.
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Old May 25, 2015 | 08:44 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Seannyc
Dual exit port check valve or single
Dual for both the exit and the check valve.
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Old May 25, 2015 | 08:56 PM
  #35  
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Thanks guys
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Old May 25, 2015 | 09:06 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Mr. Z51
Excellent discussion on this topic. I'm still not convinced, however, that a second exit or a clean air separator are necessary. Consequently, I went with the "good" can.
I agree for base cars, but for forced induction motors I think the second exit may offer some benefit. If the dry sump tank is overfilled, significant amounts of oil can end up in the intake. If you always change your oil yourself, and are certain you'll never over fill, the clean side probably isn't necessary. But if you let dealers or others change your oil, it's probably cheap insurance.
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Old Jun 12, 2015 | 11:34 AM
  #37  
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A second can or clean side can is only necessary when airflow of the pcv system reverses as crank pressures build (lack of vac or some cases presence of boost).

There are some cans that provide a large pressure relief right on the can to prevent this from ever happening
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