When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Do I get e2 dual exit ports with double exit check valve or e2 single exit ports with single exit check valve
For what it's worth. You only need a check valve if getting and using the two outlet can. The check valve is used on the outlet going to the drilled hole in the air intake before the throttle body. That stops flow from that outlet thru the can to the OEM connection.
If you get a 2 outlet can and plug one outlet (as I did) and only use the original OEM connections you don't need a check valve. The OEM hose you're replacing does not have one. IMO it only adds a flow restriction besides not being needed.
Do I get e2 dual exit ports with double exit check valve or e2 single exit ports with single exit check valve
Originally Posted by JerryU
For what it's worth. You only need a check valve if getting and using the two outlet can. The check valve is used on the outlet going to the drilled hole in the air intake before the throttle body. That stops flow from that outlet thru the can to the OEM connection.
If you get a 2 outlet can and plug one outlet (as I did) and only use the original OEM connections you don't need a check valve. The OEM hose you're replacing does not have one. IMO it only adds a flow restriction besides not being needed.
Made this schematic for my own benefit' "techies" may be interested in the reason for my comments. The reason given for needing the line going to the drilled hole in the air intake is at or near WOT (wide open throttle) the pressure in the intake manifold is near atmospheric accept for reversion pressure spikes. However if air is to flow thru the throttle body (TB) the average pressure before must be higher than after the TB (my rough calculations show about 0.5 psi at WOT.) However I accept info from the experts who race these cars and especially if you have a supercharger like the Z06 on the need for the 2nd line in race conditions. Regarding the need for a check valve, keep in mind the OEM PCV line does not contain a check valve and at WOT it's true you're not flowing much crackcase blowby. But in normal driving you're at WOT a very small percentage of time.
If you add the 2nd line, you must have a check valve to prevent air from flowing from before the TB thru the "Can" directly to the intake manifold essentially defeating the purpose of the PCV system!
I went with the Elite Best and dual check valves on my '15 Z51. I figured if I was going to install the mod, why not spend a bit extra and cover all the potential problem issues?
By the way, my E2 Best Can seems to be catching about 1/2 ounce of oil per 1,000 miles (mild driving conditions). It sure is nice knowing that oil isn't being ingested.
I went with the Elite Best and dual check valves on my '15 Z51. I figured if I was going to install the mod, why not spend a bit extra and cover all the potential problem issues?
My issue with the check valve in the one exit fitting replacing the OEM large hose is it has very small passages. You can see the two small slots in the intake. I have one and it works fine if you blow thru it. (Have not used mine nor the 2nd hose at this time and for the amount of WOT I use still don't see a need.) However with the blowby vapor and oil mist coming from the crackcase that passes thru the can could it clog? I'd check the operation from time to time.
If the one going to the air intake hose clogged, not a big concern. Unlike the main line there will not be much crackcase blowby going thru that line since the air intake hose is always near atmospheric pressure not like the intake manifold when cruising, which is a vacuum sucking in the crackcase gases.
I have the UPR catch can with 2 outlets and the clean oil separator. Both exit lines have check valves midway between the ends. Their ends are the quick connect ones just like GM's. While I don't do long WOT runs (OK maybe I do when I'm at or practicing for my stripping!), but I didn't want any opportunity to get oil in my intake in a DI engine.
Don't understand why GM doesn't provide a remedy like Ford does on their 3.5TT DI engine where the oil is caught using the same system as aftermarket catch cans in one of the valve covers, and just runs back into the engine.
I have the UPR catch can with 2 outlets and the clean oil separator. Both exit lines have check valves midway between the ends. Their ends are the quick connect ones just like GM's. While I don't do long WOT runs (OK maybe I do when I'm at or practicing for my stripping!), but I didn't want any opportunity to get oil in my intake in a DI engine.
The check valves ensure flow is "away from" the "Can" at least those supplied from Elite. In fact it is not logical to have one that stops flow to the manifold or you'd defeat the PCV system. Therefore a check valve in that line does not stop oil vapor and whatever mist is not caught by the "Can" from flowing into the manifold. So like the OEM PCV system (where the hose removed has no check valve) adding one stops flow "from" the manifold to the crankcase via the "Can." Perhaps that is an issue with a supercharger but with a normally aspirated engine can't see when the pressure in the manifold is higher than the crackcase.
I'm just trying to define what it does and so far can't see a benefit in a non supercharged engine. Just sayn'!
Excellent discussion on this topic. I'm still not convinced, however, that a second exit or a clean air separator are necessary. Consequently, I went with the "good" can.
To me, a simple solution to the coking issue for GM is to install a catch can large enough to hold the estimated oil "blow by" between oil changes. Then, when the oil is changed, have draining the catch can part of the procedure. Heck, they could even run a drain line down near the current drain plug(s). If GM felt there was a need for a clean side separator, it could be added with no additional maintenance required.
Excellent discussion on this topic. I'm still not convinced, however, that a second exit or a clean air separator are necessary. Consequently, I went with the "good" can.
I agree for base cars, but for forced induction motors I think the second exit may offer some benefit. If the dry sump tank is overfilled, significant amounts of oil can end up in the intake. If you always change your oil yourself, and are certain you'll never over fill, the clean side probably isn't necessary. But if you let dealers or others change your oil, it's probably cheap insurance.
A second can or clean side can is only necessary when airflow of the pcv system reverses as crank pressures build (lack of vac or some cases presence of boost).
There are some cans that provide a large pressure relief right on the can to prevent this from ever happening