Clay Bar?
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 26,228
Likes: 4,355
From: Chirper Island
Yes.
If you've never clayed a car before, you'd be amazed at what it removes, and how smooth it feels. The perfect prep for polishing/sealing/waxing.
And I like clay better than nano skin. Others like nano.
If you've never clayed a car before, you'd be amazed at what it removes, and how smooth it feels. The perfect prep for polishing/sealing/waxing.
And I like clay better than nano skin. Others like nano.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,584
Likes: 176
From: The Hills of Ky
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,009
Likes: 54
From: slower lower DE
Once a year at most to remove surface contaminants. Sometimes I just do the horizontal surfaces as that is where the greatest likelihood of surface contamination sits, IMO. I probably have a view on clay bars that is different from most. And that is, I try to minimize its use because clay bars are abrasive. My Vette is parked in a garage which minimizes surface contaminants. While clay bars are a good "tool" I personally think they are over-sold and over-used. A high quality polish/cleaner is less abrasive when surface contamination is really not an issue.
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 45,267
Likes: 8,542
From: Rochester, NY
No, I understand the purpose of Clay Bar but have never used it. I find a good wash, polish and wax does it for me. Surface looks good, nice shine sometimes good is good enough.
In the past with my C6 I used Rejex this time around with my C7 I tried the updated Liquid Glass and the results are quite impressive.
Again not discounting the proper prep of the paint surface with Clay Bar just think it is slightly over rated.
In the past with my C6 I used Rejex this time around with my C7 I tried the updated Liquid Glass and the results are quite impressive.
Again not discounting the proper prep of the paint surface with Clay Bar just think it is slightly over rated.
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Drifting
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 70
From: Kansas
I always clay first. What's the point of going through the trouble of waxing if you don't prep the surface properly first? Wax isn't going to stick to sap, particles, etc. stuck in your clear coat. It might take 30 extra minutes, but it's worth it to me to know the job was done right.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 11,825
Likes: 2,474
From: Ft Lauderdale
Tech Contributor
agreed...why seal crap in? always clay before starting a major detail - like once a year....it gets stuff the polish does not
http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html
http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html
Last edited by Glen e; Sep 8, 2015 at 10:31 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 3,543
Likes: 854
Clay barred my C7 right after delivery with only 50 miles.
You don't know how good a clay bar is until you use it.
There is a simple test to see if you need the car clay barred.
Feel the surface of the paint with your hand and fingers. It might feel nice and smooth.
Then get a sandwich baggie (not a heavy duty freezer bag) and put your hand in the thin plastic sandwich baggie, then run your fingers over the paint surface with your fingers inside the baggie.
If the paint surface feels like sandpaper, or gritty, this test will immediately tell you the paint surface is contaminated. The only to remove the hidden grit embedded into the paint surface is to clay bar or nano skin the paint surface.
Like "Glen e" says above, why apply any paint coating, wax, or even products like liquid glass over dirty embedded paint that you can't see.
If you get the grit feel, it is time to start from scratch and clay bar or nano skin then apply your paint sealant, coating, wax, liquid glass or what ever you choose.
Try this simple test that only takes a minute. You might be surprised what you feel.
You don't know how good a clay bar is until you use it.
There is a simple test to see if you need the car clay barred.
Feel the surface of the paint with your hand and fingers. It might feel nice and smooth.
Then get a sandwich baggie (not a heavy duty freezer bag) and put your hand in the thin plastic sandwich baggie, then run your fingers over the paint surface with your fingers inside the baggie.
If the paint surface feels like sandpaper, or gritty, this test will immediately tell you the paint surface is contaminated. The only to remove the hidden grit embedded into the paint surface is to clay bar or nano skin the paint surface.
Like "Glen e" says above, why apply any paint coating, wax, or even products like liquid glass over dirty embedded paint that you can't see.
If you get the grit feel, it is time to start from scratch and clay bar or nano skin then apply your paint sealant, coating, wax, liquid glass or what ever you choose.
Try this simple test that only takes a minute. You might be surprised what you feel.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,267
Likes: 119
From: Bellevue WA
I always have always used clay, but started seeing more and more on the form about nanoskin. I checked it out over the weekend and realized that I was spending too much time with clay bars and ordered a bunch of nanoskin products with the AutoGeek.NET 20% off Labor Day sale. While I had my wife's Abarth and my C7 professionally applied with Opti-Coat Pro Plus, I still have two other cars that I was going to do my self. I'm hoping that the nanoskin with an orbital will had a signficiant reduction of time for me on prepping the cars before putting on the Black Diamond product that NMVetteC7 is using.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 4,446
Likes: 313
From: Tarpon Springs FL
FL Events Coordinator
No, I understand the purpose of Clay Bar but have never used it. I find a good wash, polish and wax does it for me. Surface looks good, nice shine sometimes good is good enough.
In the past with my C6 I used Rejex this time around with my C7 I tried the updated Liquid Glass and the results are quite impressive.
Again not discounting the proper prep of the paint surface with Clay Bar just think it is slightly over rated.
In the past with my C6 I used Rejex this time around with my C7 I tried the updated Liquid Glass and the results are quite impressive.
Again not discounting the proper prep of the paint surface with Clay Bar just think it is slightly over rated.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 551
Likes: 48
From: Spring TX
Just FYI - I hear the pro detailers have moved to a clay towel or other solution that is easier to handle than clay bar nowadays (if you drop the clay on the ground you have to toss it, a clay towel can be washed) - might be worth pricing those vs clay.
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
I disagree with the clay bar system. Today's paint is mostly water born base and clear. The water clear is softer than clears from the past. If your not careful you damage the surface.
After clay baring your car take a flash light an shine the light from the bottom up on each panel n look for scratches left by the clay bar. If you feel you must clay bar because that's what you knew from years past make sure you keep the bar wet as possible. I would have a spay bottle of a good wash n wax product n spay the surface not the bar offen.
When done use the flash light or move the car into the sun. Open the hood so the sun shines directly on the hood n look for small scratches.
I fine finding a good car car product ( not a paste or liquid wax) like Croftgate car care products will do your job faster n easier and leave a smooth clean surface.
After clay baring your car take a flash light an shine the light from the bottom up on each panel n look for scratches left by the clay bar. If you feel you must clay bar because that's what you knew from years past make sure you keep the bar wet as possible. I would have a spay bottle of a good wash n wax product n spay the surface not the bar offen.
When done use the flash light or move the car into the sun. Open the hood so the sun shines directly on the hood n look for small scratches.
I fine finding a good car car product ( not a paste or liquid wax) like Croftgate car care products will do your job faster n easier and leave a smooth clean surface.