Here is a picture of the bottom of the C7 - the two orange arrows point to the same structures that are pointed to in the 2016 owners manual, which are also included.

My question is this If I have a low profile jack that can reach the mid point of the piece or structure pointed to at the rear of the corvette, "can I lift in the middle of that point? and by doing so lift it high enough to place two jack stands on the two puck locations which are under the rear edge of either door (one jack stand on each rear puck location... then remove the jack and move to the front lift location and do the same by lifting in the middle of the piece pointed at in these pictures and pivot on the rear jack stands until it is possible to place two more jack stands in the puck locations that are forward of the previous ones just behind the front wheels, on the bottom edge and below both doors.

Can you lift the C7 this way?

 

Wow this is a really good question.

 

You "can" but it is NOT recommended at the rear. The cradles are made of hollow cast aluminum and the rear should only be lifted at the designated ends. Some have done it and didn't crack the casting, but I would not take the chance.
Here is a PDF of jacking options using the recommended lifting locations, which I have colored to make it clearer: http://netwelding.com/Jacking_A_C7.pdf
Note, it shows the low profile cross brace I made for my large jack but it is not low enough to fit the rear without first jacking the sides. My end result is what you are requesting but it takes longer!




GM Suggested Lifting Locations

 

When I read the title, my first thought was try Pep Boys. They have hydraulic lift kits ............. .......................

 

MikeyTX,

Do you happen to have a part number or accurate name for the item.... when I search "Hydraulic Lift Kits" I get 30+ pages of stuff... I would like to get an idea of what it is you are describing !

 

Heh, I said that tongue in cheek. There are lift kits that the customizers put on show cars that use hydraulics to make the car jump up and down while standing still.

 

no you dont

 

Lol.

Try googling Quickjack bl5000 or bendpak, they make small hydraulic lifts for cars.

 

Here is one option of a lift that I use:
http://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/spe...ts/lr-60p.aspx
I just park over it and when I need to lift, pop on the pucks and push the button

 

You missed his point! He started with "misleading title" and said It reminded him of kits that raise the car via hydraulics! Like car jumpers use etc!




Hydraulic Lift Kit!

 

Been thinking about your post and if I make my cross beam, as they are called, from steel rather than the 2x6 wooded one with 2x4 pads I made and used on my C6 and C7, it would fit. See pic below.
If made from 3/8 inch thick steel (10 mm in Canada) and was 4 or 5 inches (100 - 125 mm) wide the deflection would be minimal. Then add 1/4 inch (6 mm) rubber pads at the ends.
Now I just need to find some steel and weld a short section of pipe sized to fit the saddle hole in my jack! It would not be much thicker than the current jack saddle!





A Thin Cross Beam Fabricated from Steel Would Allow Jack to Fit Under The Correct Lifting Spots on the C7

 

Hey, make two and send one to me, please!

 

Well since your taking requests I'd like one as well.

 

I doubt it is any different than the C5s or C6s. No need for a cross brace. The approved spots are shown in red and green in the one diagram and they are easy to reach. I jack the car from the shipping slot location either the front or rear one depending on which end I am going to work on. In the front I lift the car high enough to bring both the other front wheel and the rear wheel on the side I am jacking on off the ground. Then I place a jack stand in the forward green spot which is the front lower control arm mount. I make sure I follow GM's instructions and place the jackstand so it supports both sides of that mount (front to rear). Then I lower the jack which will lower the rear wheel and raise the the other front wheel higher. Then I go to that side and lift it until it is equal in height to the opposite side and place another jack stand. Getting the rear off the ground at the same time has two possibilities either place a jack stand under the rear control arm mount before lowering the car or waiting until the front is completely supported and then jacking the rear from the sides or from the middle of the rear cradle.

This method has been working for me for the last 18 years.

Bill

 

 

FWIW, the C7 is different than my C6. GM saved weight by switching to hollow aluminum cradles for front and rear. Quoting, "The front and rear nodes support hollow cast-aluminum suspension cradles that are said to be approximately one-quarter lighter and one-fifth stiffer than the solid cradles used on the C6 car’s structure."

I have been lifting my C7 as I did my C6 where you note you do from the side shipping slots. That works fine. The OP's question was jacking from the center of the rear cradle. As you note the red locations I colored on the GM suggested lifting spots (my post #3) are on the side not the center of the cradle. A cross beam/brace is needed to properly lift from that location or you "risk" the chance of cracking the casting. Note from post #3 it's acceptable to jack from the center of the the rear most front cradle location.

 

I think part of the confusion is (yet again), GM's poor owner's manual. The two black and white photos in the OP are in the owners manual, and the arrows can be interpreted as pointing to the jacking points.

I think what the arrows are really pointing out are the locations of the front and rear cross members, not the actual jacking points on those cross members, which are shown in a separate (and very tiny) picture in the OM, and match what Jerry posted above.

 

This is the kind of "hydraulic lift kit" he was joking about:

 

Lifting the vehicle from one of the four "puck points" (blue) and getting three wheels off the ground, sounds stressful and wrong. Especially when the diagram showing the lift points, states that "those frame locations are for use with a lift". A lift would support the four "puck points" and lift the vehicle up at the same rate (without any twisting or stress).

Part of the problem is in the GM User Manual, in that it does not clearly*give a good visual diagram of the procedure, or where on the part it points to, where and how to lift it.

The graphic dexterity used to produce the preferred locations diagram, is crude at best, and general in its ability to locate lifting points. (enhanced by others with dimensions and color).

The faint black and white photographs used to locate a front and back lifting location,(show here adjusted for visibility) just point to the main preferred location piece with a fat black arrowhead and do nothing more.

Why the mystery... I have seen the first class illustrations in the Maintenance manuals (thousands of illustrations across a 4 volume set). Why such a cheap touch with the owners manual?

Documentation and communication with the owner as to the correct procedure, tools and location for basic maintenance should be more than a cheap one color manual for a $90 thousand dollar automobile.

 

I colored the one from the 2014 Service Manual but only used the GM locations, the color just makes it easier to read. Hard to see the cross hatched B&W area on the rear most front cradle in their sketch.