Filthy....Part Deaux (Updated)
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,548
Likes: 609
From: Southeast, WI
By hand is the only way to use a clay bar. Make sure you use a spray lubricant and use it generously. Clay bars and lubricant spray are often sold as a "kit".
Autogeek (forum sponsor) has the following information/instructions: http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html
Autogeek (forum sponsor) has the following information/instructions: http://www.autogeek.net/detailing-clay-bar.html
Last edited by speedlink; Dec 30, 2015 at 02:15 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,165
Likes: 250
This is ridiculous. People need to wake up. The internet is a great place to get bad info and get embedded with fear. First off, these cars are mostly garage kept and driven on only sunny days. Hand washing and going over the car with spray wax every once in awhile is enough to keep these cars looking good (I didn't say great). Look at the majority of car owners in the world, they see harsh machine washes and rarely or never get waxed. The flow chart you posted is a good guideline only if you are an enthusiast/border line extremist and really want your car looking its best at all times. If you maintain your paint with cleaner wax and a good wax or sealant and quick detailer or spray wax between washes then you will never need to clay bar, buff, polish, glaze, etc...
Clay bar is a good tool, but not completely necessary. If your car is garage kept, you can get away with waxing the car with a cleaner wax and kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
Moderate imperfections will likely still require compound.
Swirl removal is avoidable if you avoid harsh chemicals and dry your car properly or never put a machine to your paint. Again, maintain the paint from day 1 with cleaner wax, spray wax between washes and a good wax/sealant every 3 to 4 months.
Very little difference between finishing polish and glaze. Both only fill in imperfections but will wash out and fade with time. Once you put a machine to your paint, you will never ever fully remove swirl marks and micro abrasions. You will have to use polish or glaze regularly to hide them. I don't care how good you think you are at buffing, if you are knowledgeable you will know this. The closest exception would be if you were to spend hours and hours and hours hand buffing, swirl removing and polishing a car.
Prewax cleansing polish- waste, waste of time, waste of money
Glaze- another waste UNLESS you have a dark colored car and are entering a car show. Use glaze like a quick detailer. It lasts all of about 1 day.
Paint sealant/wax- yes, important to use.
Spray wax- yes also important to use, but primarily for maintenance like in-between washes and waxes, at cruise nights to get the dust off, etc... Also good to spray on the car while drying after a wash, helps remove/prevent water spots.
Quick detailer- just use a spray wax, does the same thing except the spray wax gives it a more polished look.
You can easily avoid the majority of things on this chart assuming your car is garage kept/doesn't see bad weather/bad ambient conditions. Avoid clay bar, compound, swirl marks, and polishing by using a paint cleaning wax 1 to 2 times per year. After using the cleaning wax go back over the car with a paint sealant or high quality wax. Then use spray wax between washes and to remove dust etc...
You will find that with regular use of spray wax, you'll end up smoothing and polishing the paint little by little without even knowing it.
The flow chart posted above is good info for people that want to get the absolute best looking paint finish possible or if someone has a car that they bought used, has seen poor conditions, has overspray, paint contamination, etc...
Clay bar is a good tool, but not completely necessary. If your car is garage kept, you can get away with waxing the car with a cleaner wax and kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
Moderate imperfections will likely still require compound.
Swirl removal is avoidable if you avoid harsh chemicals and dry your car properly or never put a machine to your paint. Again, maintain the paint from day 1 with cleaner wax, spray wax between washes and a good wax/sealant every 3 to 4 months.
Very little difference between finishing polish and glaze. Both only fill in imperfections but will wash out and fade with time. Once you put a machine to your paint, you will never ever fully remove swirl marks and micro abrasions. You will have to use polish or glaze regularly to hide them. I don't care how good you think you are at buffing, if you are knowledgeable you will know this. The closest exception would be if you were to spend hours and hours and hours hand buffing, swirl removing and polishing a car.
Prewax cleansing polish- waste, waste of time, waste of money
Glaze- another waste UNLESS you have a dark colored car and are entering a car show. Use glaze like a quick detailer. It lasts all of about 1 day.
Paint sealant/wax- yes, important to use.
Spray wax- yes also important to use, but primarily for maintenance like in-between washes and waxes, at cruise nights to get the dust off, etc... Also good to spray on the car while drying after a wash, helps remove/prevent water spots.
Quick detailer- just use a spray wax, does the same thing except the spray wax gives it a more polished look.
You can easily avoid the majority of things on this chart assuming your car is garage kept/doesn't see bad weather/bad ambient conditions. Avoid clay bar, compound, swirl marks, and polishing by using a paint cleaning wax 1 to 2 times per year. After using the cleaning wax go back over the car with a paint sealant or high quality wax. Then use spray wax between washes and to remove dust etc...
You will find that with regular use of spray wax, you'll end up smoothing and polishing the paint little by little without even knowing it.
The flow chart posted above is good info for people that want to get the absolute best looking paint finish possible or if someone has a car that they bought used, has seen poor conditions, has overspray, paint contamination, etc...
This is pic of clay, car was just off truck, plastic removed, NOT touched by dealer. Car was washed prior to claying.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,165
Likes: 250
Besides washes every week or two or three, I've really done nothing to this car in over a year.
Hint: Follow Glens directions. It'll save you time, and give tons more enjoyment and looks of envy.
(average wash now taks 30-40 min, rinseless 14 min)
Hint: Follow Glens directions. It'll save you time, and give tons more enjoyment and looks of envy.
(average wash now taks 30-40 min, rinseless 14 min)
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Verdad Gallardo
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 45,274
Likes: 8,546
From: Rochester, NY
Team Owner
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 45,274
Likes: 8,546
From: Rochester, NY
QUOTE=n8dogg;1591217318]Your chart was designed to sell products. It's as simple as that. Ever since the introduction of the internet and forums there has been a huge surge in new detailing products. Fear is greatly used in sales tactics, especially with the automotive industry because most consumers don't know any better. The market is saturated with junk. saying that, most of the steps in your chart are great if someone knows what they are doing and want their car to looks it's absolute best, but it's a total waste for the majority of car owners who have no idea how to properly buff a car.
Look how many "expert" buffers have surfaced on the internet because they bought a DA orbital. Your chart is geared towards those people, they think they know it all and they want to tell their buddies about how they 3 step buffed and polished their car after their dual bucket washing system and complete clay bar/paint decontamination. It makes them sound knowledgeable and important. The truth of the matter is they likely are ruining their paint that had 0 swirls in it and now they put swirls in the paint with their DA orbital and have to hide the swirls with regular polishing.
Your best bet to achieving the absolute paint finish is actually to almost start backwards with your chart. Obviously wash the car first, but try wax or polish before you go an put micro abrasions in the paint with clay bar and compound. And yes, clay bar does put micro abrasions in paint! That's why they come in different levels, or grains if you will. Medium is noticeable to the eye in dim lighting. Fine is noticeable under the sun. Try the least invasive first. I always recommend cleaner wax before claybar. Too many people scratch their paint with claybar.[/QUOTE]
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,165
Likes: 250
[QUOTE=n8dogg;1591217318]Your chart was designed to sell products. It's as simple as that. Ever since the introduction of the internet and forums there has been a huge surge in new detailing products. Fear is greatly used in sales tactics, especially with the automotive industry because most consumers don't know any better.
The market is saturated with junk. saying that, most of the steps in your chart are great if someone knows what they are doing and want their car to looks it's absolute best, but it's a total waste for the majority of car owners who have no idea how to properly buff a car.
Look how many "expert" buffers have surfaced on the internet because they bought a DA orbital. Your chart is geared towards those people, they think they know it all and they want to tell their buddies about how they 3 step buffed and polished their car after their dual bucket washing system and complete clay bar/paint decontamination. It makes them sound knowledgeable and important. The truth of the matter is they likely are ruining their paint that had 0 swirls in it and now they put swirls in the paint with their DA orbital and have to hide the swirls with regular polishing.
Your best bet to achieving the absolute paint finish is actually to almost start backwards with your chart. Obviously wash the car first, but try wax or polish before you go an put micro abrasions in the paint with clay bar and compound. And yes, clay bar does put micro abrasions in paint! That's why they come in different levels, or grains if you will. Medium is noticeable to the eye in dim lighting. Fine is noticeable under the sun. Try the least invasive first. I always recommend cleaner wax before claybar. Too many people scratch their paint with claybar.
QUOTE=n8dogg;1591217318]Your chart was designed to sell products. It's as simple as that. Ever since the introduction of the internet and forums there has been a huge surge in new detailing products. Fear is greatly used in sales tactics, especially with the automotive industry because most consumers don't know any better. The market is saturated with junk. saying that, most of the steps in your chart are great if someone knows what they are doing and want their car to looks it's absolute best, but it's a total waste for the majority of car owners who have no idea how to properly buff a car.
Look how many "expert" buffers have surfaced on the internet because they bought a DA orbital. Your chart is geared towards those people, they think they know it all and they want to tell their buddies about how they 3 step buffed and polished their car after their dual bucket washing system and complete clay bar/paint decontamination. It makes them sound knowledgeable and important. The truth of the matter is they likely are ruining their paint that had 0 swirls in it and now they put swirls in the paint with their DA orbital and have to hide the swirls with regular polishing.
Your best bet to achieving the absolute paint finish is actually to almost start backwards with your chart. Obviously wash the car first, but try wax or polish before you go an put micro abrasions in the paint with clay bar and compound. And yes, clay bar does put micro abrasions in paint! That's why they come in different levels, or grains if you will. Medium is noticeable to the eye in dim lighting. Fine is noticeable under the sun. Try the least invasive first. I always recommend cleaner wax before claybar. Too many people scratch their paint with claybar.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,165
Likes: 250
[QUOTE=dvilin;1591218652 Ever since the introduction of the internet and forums there has been a huge surge in new detailing products. Fear is greatly used in sales tactics, especially with the automotive industry because most consumers don't know any better.
[/QUOTE]
with the introduction of the internet there's been a flood of people that spew incorrect b.s. as if it's truths
[/QUOTE]
with the introduction of the internet there's been a flood of people that spew incorrect b.s. as if it's truths
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 3,941
Likes: 499
From: Northern Virginia
Swirl removal is avoidable if you avoid harsh chemicals and dry your car properly or never put a machine to your paint. Again, maintain the paint from day 1 with cleaner wax, spray wax between washes and a good wax/sealant every 3 to 4 months.
Once you put a machine to your paint, you will never ever fully remove swirl marks and micro abrasions. You will have to use polish or glaze regularly to hide them. I don't care how good you think you are at buffing, if you are knowledgeable you will know this. The closest exception would be if you were to spend hours and hours and hours hand buffing, swirl removing and polishing a car.
If you can't buff without getting swirl marks, you're using the wrong pad, using an abrasive polish, or letting the pad get dry. Or trying to polish a dirty surface.
Last edited by meyerweb; Dec 31, 2015 at 03:01 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,332
Likes: 557
From: Newport OR
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,332
Likes: 557
From: Newport OR
Filthy....Part Deaux
Hey, I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who responded to my post about my Vette being filthy and not knowing where to start...
Several observations....one, there are as many opinions about how to wash and detail a car as there are people on this forum. And, these opinions are strong ones! I'm glad people kept it civil.
Two, Glen E seems to be the undisputed king of detailing information.
Three, there are a ton of products out there.
Four, I enjoyed the common sense approach to car washing that several posters espoused. You all know who you are. Your posts got me thinking about my original question and led me to the belief that I was totally over-analyzing the issue.
I got to thinking today after I finally had a chance to drive my car in decent weather. I realized that between my long country driveway and wet road conditions that my car will NEVER be a show car, and to try to make it look like one will turn me into a crazy man. I could wash, wax, seal, etc, etc till hell freezes over, and five minutes down the road it's gonna have a fine spray of muddy water on it.
OR, I could just wash it carefully, put some spray wax on it and go drive it, and not worry that it's gonna get dirty. I'm not going to obsess about a sparking shine, because that will last five miles down the road.
Again, many thanks to you all. I am tremendously enjoying this forum-it's the knowledgeable people who post here who make this place one of my favorite forums.
Thanks again for your input-I'll wave if I see you on the road!
Several observations....one, there are as many opinions about how to wash and detail a car as there are people on this forum. And, these opinions are strong ones! I'm glad people kept it civil.
Two, Glen E seems to be the undisputed king of detailing information.
Three, there are a ton of products out there.
Four, I enjoyed the common sense approach to car washing that several posters espoused. You all know who you are. Your posts got me thinking about my original question and led me to the belief that I was totally over-analyzing the issue.
I got to thinking today after I finally had a chance to drive my car in decent weather. I realized that between my long country driveway and wet road conditions that my car will NEVER be a show car, and to try to make it look like one will turn me into a crazy man. I could wash, wax, seal, etc, etc till hell freezes over, and five minutes down the road it's gonna have a fine spray of muddy water on it.
OR, I could just wash it carefully, put some spray wax on it and go drive it, and not worry that it's gonna get dirty. I'm not going to obsess about a sparking shine, because that will last five miles down the road.
Again, many thanks to you all. I am tremendously enjoying this forum-it's the knowledgeable people who post here who make this place one of my favorite forums.
Thanks again for your input-I'll wave if I see you on the road!
