Tires
#2
Drifting
Tire Rack or Discount Tires takes good equipment and a well trained installer to do RF tires. If you go with tire rack use their premium installer. Be sure they torque the lug nuts to 100 FT LBS. The franchise dealers are competitive and do a decent install.
#3
Instructor
23,300 Z51 Coupe. The fronts were 101% Gone! My rears still had 8 to 10k miles left.
After a Mini-Cooper, a C6 (and my C7) with Run Flats I am Not a Fan.
After a Mini-Cooper, a C6 (and my C7) with Run Flats I am Not a Fan.
#6
Melting Slicks
Where on the front tire was the most wear/which part of the tread was the worst? If inside of tire, you may have too much negative camber, for maximum tire mileage. Negative camber is good for the race track, but not for maximum tire life. I had four wheel alignment done early on my and 427 Vert., after replacing tires @ 13,000 miles on my C6 GS, due to negative camber.
#8
Instructor
From everything I've read, the specs are the same.
Yes Sir, mine was down to the belts on the inside. The original owner complained to Chevy numerous times about the popping on tight turns. (I have the receipts where they checked the alignment.) Looking at the front-end everything (looks to be marked) from the factory. I haven't put a gauge on the Camber but it looks to be close (to my 427 Cobra replica that I set up) to .5 negative. I put Kumho tires on and my car drives and rides Much better than the Michelin RF's and much less tight radius/turn popping (or slipping).
Where on the front tire was the most wear/which part of the tread was the worst? If inside of tire, you may have too much negative camber, for maximum tire mileage. Negative camber is good for the race track, but not for maximum tire life. I had four wheel alignment done early on my and 427 Vert., after replacing tires @ 13,000 miles on my C6 GS, due to negative camber.
#9
Melting Slicks
20K on my '15 Z51....like most my fronts only have a couple of thousand left at best, the rears a good 5k or more. I find that my autos do better with the rear tires than the manuals.
The wear on the fronts isn't quite as flat as I would like but not bad considering I never had the alignment check. As soon as I put some new shoes on my ride, I will roll the camber back to a Max of -.5; that number has worked well on the last two generations.
The wear on the fronts isn't quite as flat as I would like but not bad considering I never had the alignment check. As soon as I put some new shoes on my ride, I will roll the camber back to a Max of -.5; that number has worked well on the last two generations.
#11
Melting Slicks
Michelins seem to be much better than Goodyear, at not doing that, as quickly. Got my 427 in July 2012, have 20,000 miles on them and they are still sticky when warm, and look to have about another 10,000 miles left on them.
#12
Mileage really depends on how the car is driven... obviously, highway miles are a lot easier on tires than track. Alignment is also a big factor... for high performance driving some additional camber is needed, but this leads to inside wear on the street....
There is really no perfect compromise.
That said, my 2016 Z51 with Mag shocks was incredibly flat on the track, I left the alignment at stock, and saw no undue wear... the Michelins are pretty impressive for a street tire.
i'm planning to do 4-5 track events this year, so I'll see how the tires hold up, but when I replace them, I'm going with a straight, non-runflat extreme performance tire... run-flats are legal BS IMHO.
I buy my tires from Tire Rack due to their selection, and have a local vendor (Discount Tire) install them... about $20/per... cheap, but make sure they torque the lug nuts properly.... some of these baboons use an air gun and way over-torque them.... bad news.
There is really no perfect compromise.
That said, my 2016 Z51 with Mag shocks was incredibly flat on the track, I left the alignment at stock, and saw no undue wear... the Michelins are pretty impressive for a street tire.
i'm planning to do 4-5 track events this year, so I'll see how the tires hold up, but when I replace them, I'm going with a straight, non-runflat extreme performance tire... run-flats are legal BS IMHO.
I buy my tires from Tire Rack due to their selection, and have a local vendor (Discount Tire) install them... about $20/per... cheap, but make sure they torque the lug nuts properly.... some of these baboons use an air gun and way over-torque them.... bad news.
#13
Drifting
If you have time and want to take a trip and do the tires at that same time, go to Corvettes of Carlisle. There is a big vendor there... "More than tires..." who stocks lots of sizes and can put them on for reasonable prices. There are probably a few vendors there and you can get competing pricing... good place to go see and shop...
#14
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Dec 2015
Location: Just outside a swamp in Florida
Posts: 2,209
Received 929 Likes
on
522 Posts
Not to hijack this thread, but I see a of lot people wear their front tires out before the rears. I've always had just the opposite experience on my previous M cars.
I do drive spirited, but I don't burn the tires.
I'm curious to see how these will wear.
Has anybody worn out their rear tires first, under normal, but spirited driving conditions?
I do drive spirited, but I don't burn the tires.
I'm curious to see how these will wear.
Has anybody worn out their rear tires first, under normal, but spirited driving conditions?
Last edited by L8ter; 03-04-2016 at 03:53 PM.
#15
Not to hijack this thread, but I see a of lot people wear their front tires out before the rears. I've always had just the opposite experience on my previous M cars.
I do drive spirited, but I don't burn the tires.
I'm curious to see how these will wear.
Has anybody worn out their rear tires first, under normal, but spirited driving conditions?
I do drive spirited, but I don't burn the tires.
I'm curious to see how these will wear.
Has anybody worn out their rear tires first, under normal, but spirited driving conditions?
On the track, its a different story... most front-engined cars tend to understeer, hard braking uses the front tires harder, and the alignment that lets the car drive straight causes the tires to grind on the track.
The following users liked this post:
L8ter (03-04-2016)
#16
Burning Brakes
From everything I've read, the specs are the same.
Yes Sir, mine was down to the belts on the inside. The original owner complained to Chevy numerous times about the popping on tight turns. (I have the receipts where they checked the alignment.) Looking at the front-end everything (looks to be marked) from the factory. I haven't put a gauge on the Camber but it looks to be close (to my 427 Cobra replica that I set up) to .5 negative. I put Kumho tires on and my car drives and rides Much better than the Michelin RF's and much less tight radius/turn popping (or slipping).
Yes Sir, mine was down to the belts on the inside. The original owner complained to Chevy numerous times about the popping on tight turns. (I have the receipts where they checked the alignment.) Looking at the front-end everything (looks to be marked) from the factory. I haven't put a gauge on the Camber but it looks to be close (to my 427 Cobra replica that I set up) to .5 negative. I put Kumho tires on and my car drives and rides Much better than the Michelin RF's and much less tight radius/turn popping (or slipping).
#17
I put almost 40,000 miles on the fronts, my rears are still going strong, at 43,000. It Surprised me.
I drive spiritedly, but don't burn rubber. I also get regular alignments. Street neutral.
I drive spiritedly, but don't burn rubber. I also get regular alignments. Street neutral.
#18
Instructor
What I'm puzzled about is the Inside tire wear (with only .5 Neg Camber and .1 Toe). My fronts looked almost identical as the picture posted in this thread.