Originally Posted by managerman

I paid 549.00 for mine...I called them direct and told them I was a Corvette Forum member....I am hoping to sell my Navtool 3.0 for 200.00..so net 349.00 for Carplay and better interface was worth it to me..

-M

Originally Posted by Matthewstorm

Do you have more instructions or maybe a video on this installation?

I've heard you lose steering controls and PDR. Is that correct?

Can you do CarPlay or AA over BT or does it need to be wired.

I'm not sure I understand the benefit of this if I can already wirelessly stream music from my phone to the car?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Matthewstorm

Originally Posted by brerspidur

well i got navtool 5.0 up and running tonight, android auto and screen mirroring seem to be working well. front camera came in late today, so i hope to get it wired tomorrow.

Originally Posted by Matthewstorm

Originally Posted by Matthewstorm

Originally Posted by Matthewstorm

Originally Posted by eboggs_jkvl

A new product is coming out with delivery in December (actually delayed until late March 2106). It is called NAVtool. This product will allow a front view camera to be hooked up to the NAV screen. In preparation for NAVtool, I have mounted a front camera in my grill. I've threaded the power & video leads into the engine bay and I await the delivery of the NAVtool. For power, I will use the "Micro Add-a-circuit" in the front fuse box as there or many 12v switched fuses to double tap.

Here are pictures of the mounted front camera:










Large pictures afford the best detail of the installation. Drilling 2 holes is a non event so I didn't see any reason to take pictures. Well, maybe I should have documented the hole drilling as I got a question on it.

First, you don't need to remove the grill to mount the camera.

I made a paper template of the hole/base and scotch taped it to the grill. I then used masking tape om the next couple of lower sections to protect from touching the grill with by drill. I then used a 1/16 drill bit to make the initial holes and then used a 3/8(?) drill bit to enlarge the holes. Go slow, it drills very easy, (plastic). dropped in the screws (the have a hex hole in the head and used an allen wrench for the top of the screw and held the nut on the bottom to get it started. I had to modify the allen wrench (it was old and I had a couple) by cutting it off to shorten the length to fit on top of the screw as there is not much space for a wrench or screwdriver. I used an acorn nut with the nylon inside to lock the screw and keep it secure.










I put black wire loom on the wires behind the camera to hide a red plug (power) and a yellow plug (video). Everything is wrapped and tapped black to hide all the wiring behind the grill.

The camera is made by "Pyle".
Model PLCM38FRV
170 degree field of view
Color

It can be optioned for front or rear view and has optional grid lines. I wired the red & white wires for the grid and did not connect the blue option wire for the "reverse" picture that is needed in a rear view camera. A good ground is on the fender next to the air filter. Add an additional M8 X 1.25 nut to the existing ground.

The video lead will come in to the cabin behind the rubber insulation at the front of the passenger door. I will add pictures to this thread as I progress along in the project.

The NAVtool is plug and play. The Navigation unit HMI in the 2014 & 2015 Corvettes is located above the driver's side kick panel.

3/2/2016 Update.


Ok, I got restless! I tapped the power today in the engine bay fuse box. I used a switched 12v source and tapped the power with a "Micro" tap a circuit.

I used a convenient fuse (#36) that had 12v switched and fused it all up.



I ran the power lead into the fuse box and notched out a small access slot in the rim of the fuse box so the wire wouldn't be crimped. This picture shows the notch.



This picture shows the wire resting in the notch and the wire is perfectly flat with the top edge of the rim.




I also snaked the video lead in from the engine bay inside to the interior of the car. I ran it in the passenger door side access point and then I snaked the video under the dash over to the driver's side kick panel. I have 12-14" of extra video wire ready for the hookup. A good ground is on the fender next to the air filter. Add an additional M8 X 1.25 nut to the existing ground.

Now, all that is needed are the end pieces to show up at the vendor, the vendor can install the end pieces and then ship the units out to the buyers. This next part of the installation should be 1hour minutes tops to get it finished.

Well, it arrived and my 1 hour was actually 1:15 but there was a complication. Short story, there was a bad crimp connection on the power lead in the fuse box and I had to cut it out and make a soldered connection with shrink wrap to cover it. Front camera works perfect for the last 5 tries so I think that was the issue. If not, I'll refasten the ground and get rid of the crimped connection. Chasing that out made the install 3 hours and 20 minutes.


Here's the stuff that we need to install:




OK, let's finish up. Some of these pictures show a white car and we all know I have torch red. It was silly to take new pictures that showed the same stuff so I'll use the "library of pictures".

Here are the blue leads for the HMI to Navtool connection. You can't mess this up. Each connector only fits 1 socket and not only that, the sockets are the matching color to the plugs.



Here are the leads for the input to the Navtool.



There are 5 RCA plugs They are grouped 3 into a black connector and 2 into a black connector.

The Group of three is labeled thus:

Video input 1 = Front Camera
Video input 2 = Left Side Camera
Video output = Right Side Camera

The Group of two is labeled thus:

Video Input 1 = Audio red
Video Input 2 = Audio black

The group of 2 audio is used in connection with an AUX jack and one of these: http://www.discountcarstereo.com/ima...2.5-RCA3_m.jpg

If you don't have an AUX jack, you can do blue tooth audio streaming.


OK, let's tear the car apart!

[IMG]http://www.jaxvette.com/c7/front_camera/step 1 remove.JPG

Remove the piece of trim above the kick panel at the passenger post and then remove the kick panel


[IMG]http://www.jaxvette.com/c7/front_camera/step 2 remove.JPG

Remove the panel directly under the glove box by pulling out 2 "push pins". NOTE!! There is a light in this piece that you need to twist out and put back in after you start reassembly.

[IMG]http://www.jaxvette.com/c7/front_camera/step 3 unflod.JPG

Pull back the carpet to expose the BCM cover plate.


[IMG]http://www.jaxvette.com/c7/front_camera/step 4 remove.JPG

Before you remove the 3 ten mm fasteners, look at the bottom right corner of the cover. There is a bundle of wire connected to the cover. Use a pair of long nosed pliers to reach in, grab the black plastic push pin and pry the pin out of the cover. The pin will need to be pushed toward the door side of the car. When you have the wire bundle loose, then take off the 3 10mm fasteners and remove the BCM cover.

[IMG]http://www.jaxvette.com/c7/front_camera/step 5 unplug.JPG

Reach around the left side of the wires and get behind the big bundle. The white 20 pin plug is back there and you need to unplug it and bring it out to the front. Look at your 20 green wire jumper. The white plug on it is the same as the plug you need to find and pull to the front.

[IMG]http://www.jaxvette.com/c7/front_camera/step 6 plug in.JPG

Now, plug in the 20 green wire plug into the audio receiver and then connect the white plug to the end of the 20 wire green bundle that came with the navtool.

Now fish the small 4 wire connector (red, black, yellow, white.) that connects to the video lead bundle through the back of the console and get that small black plug FROM the driver's side over to the passenger side. When you accomplish that, plug in the black connected to the black plug that is in the middle of the 20 wire green bundle. WATCH your connection it'll fit either way BUT ONLY ONE way will allow the locking clasp to engage.

[IMG]http://www.jaxvette.com/c7/front_camera/step 7 plug in.JPG

This picture shows the completed 20 connection, the 4 wire connection and it actually shows the "light" hanging down that was inserted in the panel under the glove box.




This picture shows the video feed coming into the cabin under the rubber seal.




This picture shows were I finally mounted the navtool. It is up in the area to the left of my brake pedal and we wire tied it into place. We wire tied all of the wires and even supported the HDMI wire with a wire tie.


The long run of 4 wires from the passenger audio receiver plugs into the navtool. The blue wire from the HMI runs into the blue wire from navtool to the navtool. The 2nd blue wire comes from the navtool and plugs into the original blue wire hole on the HMI.

We connected everything and left it on the floor. Started up the car and tested. It worked initially. Then I lost the video from the camera but I believe I found that as a faulty crimped power wire in the engine fuse box (that was mentioned earlier in this post.). Except for that damn bad power crimp, we had the install done and buttoned up in 1 hour and 15 minutes. We're talking pure **** wire routing, with neat wiring, no slack, everything wire tied in place to maintain neatness. You know, **** stuff.


Here's the video to prove it works!




The grid in the picture shows at the farthest grid at 8" the middle bar in the grid is 4.5", the closest grid line is 3".


Another item, the iPhone was tested this AM. I plugged it in and immediately got my IPhone screen. I hit an APP and got this to prove that it works.




The HDMI cable I used was this: Amazon.com: AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 6.5 Feet (2 Meters) Supports Ethernet, 3D, 4K and Audio Return: Electronics

The HDMI adapter to the iPhone I used was this: Amazon.com: Lightning Digital AV Adapter for iPhone 5, 5C, 5S, 6, 6 Plus / iPad Retina Display, mini, mini 2, mini 3, Air, Air 2 / iPod touch 5th Generation, 6th Generation: Electronics

This is how I ran my HDMI cord for my iPhone connection. From the Navtool, I removed the side trim on the console and tucked the wire up into the console area and back to the console. I then used a razor knife and slowly cut a hole in the console to accommodate the HDMI plug. If you take off the trim, notice on the VERY front "tab" it needs to go in the slot and then slide forward to catch the "tit" sticking out on the attachment piece. Then the rest of the trim piece slaps back into the slots quite easily.








Major mad props to Bob Mclennon who came over to help. Between us two gimps, we probably 3/4 of a real mechanic to work. Not too bad for a couple of geezers.


Elmer

Originally Posted by 2Intense

Okay Elmer, so I am looking at doing the same thing to my 2015 Z51 LT in order to get the splitter Cam. How do you feel about the install now after having it for a while? Is the system buggy at all?

What advice would you offer?